how to weld ford 8.8 tubes to housing? - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 49 Old 10-01-2012, 09:53 PM
03ranger4oh
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Originally Posted by 1ironwill View Post
I have more experience in making welds that look like that work. Even when working as a continuos bead on a mig (flux or solid core) half the time, you are heating the filler up to lay on top of the already layed material as you go. Basically with the tack option, you are putting the most heat to that exact point as you go, and not just laying more material on top of rod. With the tacking option also, you are fusing the materials together, not just laying material on top of it.

With heavy equipment I have the most experience welding as far as excavators/loaders and attachments such as bosses on buckets and rakes. Most of the factory welds would break after enough abuse. Usually they break along the weld line and sometimes it would creep through 1/2 to 3/4" steel. Instead of going along the lines of the weld where the two materials will meet, I would lay a tack bead along there, then go the opposite way. Criss crossing them 2 layers with the tack option. After I learned that, no welds of mine ever broke. A tool I made out of forklift forks withstood a 50 ton jack with no cracks with "tack" welding. 1 and 1/2 steel 90 deg welded together in a u-shape was the base of the jack. It bent the 90's of the 1 1/2 and the base, but did not crack.

Also whenever welding, flat is preferred, but if you have to go vertical, that tacking option works best for me. That way there is no puddle falling at all. That is all, IMO, carry on.
I could not agree less with this post. Laying tacks on top of eachother is just wrong for anything structural. If you can't get good penetration running a full length bead, turn your heat up, keep at the front of the puddle and keep a consistent whip. Multi pass where needed. If you can't make it work, put down your helmet, turn off your machine and get somebody that knows what they're doing. Try doing any certification testing with your tack method and watch your plates break, maybe that will show you how bad of an idea that is. And the worst part about this is that there are probably people that don't know better that are reading this and are taking it as good advice, which scares the **** out of me.

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post #47 of 49 Old 10-02-2012, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 03ranger4oh View Post
I'd it's cast steel you could certainly do it with solid wire, flux core or metal core. I wouldn't ever use nickel rod with stick unless its cast iron.
Ni-rod has MANY more uses than just cast iron........

Ni-rod has very little shrinkage when it cools,it makes for an excellent stress free weld.....which makes it a very good choice welding the heavy differential center section to a mild steel tube,,less warpage and stress on the axle tube and no one knows the exact chemical composition of all those different center chunks..you can;t even find an answer from any of original manufacturers of them..

Ni-rod is also great for dissimilar materials...

Ni-rod is also great for corrosion and abrasion resistant applications and high heat applications as well...

Among countless other suitable application for Nickel fillers........

Ni-rod is commonly known by people to use it for cast iron because of it's ability to weld dissimalar materials a low stress filler,cast iron NEEDS little to no stress or it will crack easily...but that's just scratching the surface of the uses of Ni-rod......


Will 70 series fillers work on the axles?..."probably"...

Have they held up in extreme duty?...yes..

Have they failed in extreme duty?...yup...seen quite a few with my own eyes at drag strips and dirt tracks...but also seen quite a few hold up well....the ones i seem to find out that held up were the people who took the time to do a pre and post heat on the center section...eliminating heat sink being caused by the heavy center section.........

If i decide to weld center sections..i go with SMAW Ni-rod....probably because of the industry i work in i have easy access to it( in the nuclear industry once a box or can of rod is past a certain date it goes to the trash can)
But even if i didn't have ease of access to it,my peace of mind welding it with a Ni-rod would be well worth the extra money buying it in my opinion..

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post #48 of 49 Old 10-02-2012, 04:38 PM
03ranger4oh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
Ni-rod has MANY more uses than just cast iron........

Ni-rod has very little shrinkage when it cools,it makes for an excellent stress free weld.....which makes it a very good choice welding the heavy differential center section to a mild steel tube,,less warpage and stress on the axle tube and no one knows the exact chemical composition of all those different center chunks..you can;t even find an answer from any of original manufacturers of them..

Ni-rod is also great for dissimilar materials...

Ni-rod is also great for corrosion and abrasion resistant applications and high heat applications as well...

Among countless other suitable application for Nickel fillers........

Ni-rod is commonly known by people to use it for cast iron because of it's ability to weld dissimalar materials a low stress filler,cast iron NEEDS little to no stress or it will crack easily...but that's just scratching the surface of the uses of Ni-rod......


Will 70 series fillers work on the axles?..."probably"...

Have they held up in extreme duty?...yes..

Have they failed in extreme duty?...yup...seen quite a few with my own eyes at drag strips and dirt tracks...but also seen quite a few hold up well....the ones i seem to find out that held up were the people who took the time to do a pre and post heat on the center section...eliminating heat sink being caused by the heavy center section.........

If i decide to weld center sections..i go with SMAW Ni-rod....probably because of the industry i work in i have easy access to it( in the nuclear industry once a box or can of rod is past a certain date it goes to the trash can)
But even if i didn't have ease of access to it,my peace of mind welding it with a Ni-rod would be well worth the extra money buying it in my opinion..
Thank you for the information, what I meant to say was I wouldn't ever use it on steel to steel. Cast iron was just the metal being discussed, which nickel rod would work great for. Sorry for the confusion.
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post #49 of 49 Old 03-21-2014, 03:50 PM
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There is awesome information in here. Thank you all who actually know what you are talking about for sharing your knowledge.

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.035 , cast , cool slowly , ford 8.8 , housing , pre-heat , tubes , weld

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