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Unread 06-27-2010, 06:21 PM   #16
BESRK
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For the most part, the only thing I use my Lincoln Tombstone for is welding tubes to housings.. using Ni55 rods.. at about $50lb

1 rod will usually get me 4 good beads evenly spaced around a typical tube.

I've done housings/tubes with wire feed too.. both flux core and solid w/gas.

With any of the processes/rods/wire that you use, just looking for cracking. If it's gonna crack, it'll do it almost immediately after welding. If it does crack, just grind it out and hit it again. Most of the time, it won't crack the second time around.. not sure why.. maybe mixing of the metals?

I've also used a "bullet heater" to preheat the casting. After welding, I just move the heater away about an inch every few minutes or so (basically whenever I walk by it) until it's cool enough to touch.

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Unread 06-29-2010, 01:22 AM   #17
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did my 44 the other day...tick tacked with my miller 211 and it turned out ok.
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Unread 06-29-2010, 05:55 PM   #18
wushaw
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Haven't done much welding...have ya? That bead looks great
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Unread 06-29-2010, 06:08 PM   #19
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Holy ****! If welding is this involved forget it. I never thought there was that much to know about it. Maybe I can get a degree at community college or something.
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Unread 06-29-2010, 06:32 PM   #20
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I cant coment on the 8.8 housings but the 14 bolts and dana 60's center sections are not a CAST steel there Nodular Iron. The outer C's are a forged steel, again maybe the 8.8's are different.

I used my MM250 set at 185IPM's and 19.5 volts with .035 wire. And ive also used a high knickle based repiar rod we use to use on final drive and engine blocks when I worked for CAT.

My 14 bolt with the MIG heated up around 200* and slowly air cooled.


Knickle rod, again heated up to around 200* and slowly air cooled.


Years of beating on the 14 bolt and no breakage yet.

Jason.
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Unread 06-30-2010, 09:12 PM   #21
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Here is a few simple ways to test if it is cast steel,nodular/ductile iron( different names,same thing) or cast iron....

Use a grinder and do a spark test...

Cast Iron will produce short red streamers seen best in dim light.

Cast steel produces bright yellow sparks ,sometimes bursts at then end of the sparks depending on the carbon content in it.

Mild Steel produces dull yellow sparks

You can also use a file for a test,filing cast iron will produce some graphite,cast steel wont.

I find the grind test to be the best.

Any of the 8.8's i've welded tubes to center sections and welded brackets on for drag strip machines always indicated cast steel.

Here is a good read on the subject i just found,He does a pretty good job at explaining this subject in the way i have been trying to explain....

Cast Steel - JeepBBS
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Unread 06-30-2010, 10:23 PM   #22
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well we welded up the housing with flux core .035...no crackin during the welds...is penetration indicated by the length of that rainbow type marking the welds make on the surrounding area?
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Unread 06-30-2010, 11:10 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wushaw View Post
Haven't done much welding...have ya? That bead looks great
bout a year...bought a miller 211 last september and have been teaching myself.
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Unread 07-16-2010, 01:12 PM   #24
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My dad is the one that welded brackets onto my 8.8, and he just welded 4 short beads spaced around the tube, no preheat, no postheat. I have had no problems out of them, but then again, I have not really beat on it that much, but time will tell, gettin 488s and lockers soon. Im doing a waggy 44 front now, and I had to weld to the cast. Process I used was to preheat area to 450 or so, weld one side of tab, peen weld (no idea if that helps anything or not), heat up a bit more, weld other side of tab, peen again, keep torch on weld for a bit, then covered it in a welding blanket then a towel. I took little more than an hour to be able to touch the weld i think, though I didnt time it. After I uncovered it, I smacked the tab really hard and bent the 1/4" tab a bit, so I am satisfied with the weld. Used plain wire on a 220 machine.
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Unread 07-17-2010, 12:18 PM   #25
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I agree with Ironworker preheat and postheat with the fluxcore you already have ---- from my experience most of these housings are cast steel not cast iron. I have even repaired some that were broken using the method Ironworker describes
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Unread 07-17-2010, 04:25 PM   #26
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Keep in mind fellas.. it's not like these tubes are loose and about to fall out.. They are pressed in and plug welded at the factory... and are pretty secure as is.
We're just adding some additional strenght to keep the pumpkin from spinning/moving on the axle tubes under severe use. Just thought I'd toss that out there..
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Unread 07-17-2010, 07:26 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigertrack1600m View Post
did my 44 the other day...tick tacked with my miller 211 and it turned out ok.
Question to all about this particular one, and I'm in no way being critical, just asking: Is this really a good, strong weld, particularly for a housing? It's certainly nice-looking.

But according to your description and how it looks, it appears to be basically a bunch of individual welds. From everything I've read about doing this, I thought it was better to have a continuous weld, not keep starting and stopping like you do with sheet metal. Am I seeing this correctly?
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Unread 07-18-2010, 07:18 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Keep in mind fellas.. it's not like these tubes are loose and about to fall out.. They are pressed in and plug welded at the factory... and are pretty secure as is.
We're just adding some additional strenght to keep the pumpkin from spinning/moving on the axle tubes under severe use. Just thought I'd toss that out there..
Yep

And heres what a 14 bolt will do if its not weld and the only side holding the Anti warp bar on.





That was my old axle and was done with a 4.0. Buy the time we got off the trail the tube was moving in and out and up and down. Now I'm linked and the tube's are welded, 5 hard years no problems

Jason.
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Unread 07-19-2010, 08:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacfanweb View Post
Question to all about this particular one, and I'm in no way being critical, just asking: Is this really a good, strong weld, particularly for a housing? It's certainly nice-looking.

But according to your description and how it looks, it appears to be basically a bunch of individual welds. From everything I've read about doing this, I thought it was better to have a continuous weld, not keep starting and stopping like you do with sheet metal. Am I seeing this correctly?

yes, a continuous weld is stronger. As stated above, the tubes are already welded from the factory so this is just added insurance. This was my first attempt ever welding to cast so I used this method to keep the heat down. The 1/2" mild steel tubes can take alot of heat, however I have melted moderately porous cast away with very low settings.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 11:40 PM   #30
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I just welded the tubes on my buddies 8.8 with my Hobart 187, no cracks except for one crappy bead. I ground it out and hit it again, it is fine now.

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