How to install a ‘lunchbox’ locker (ex locker, aussie locker, etc) in your D30 axle. - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Fabrication Shop > How to install a ‘lunchbox’ locker (ex locker, aussie locker, etc) in your D30 axle.

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Unread 03-10-2006, 08:15 PM   #46
webdr
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ok first off, I didnt read all the replys so I dont know if this has been said.
I used your writeup to do my d30. Thanks! Good info....
One complaint, if you will.
I notice you say to be careful w/ the bearings and such.
You should advise to replace all the bearings and seals while theyre out, right?
Theres no sense in putting it all back together w/ old bearings....

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Unread 03-10-2006, 08:38 PM   #47
CanukYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webdr
ok first off, I didnt read all the replys so I dont know if this has been said.
I used your writeup to do my d30. Thanks! Good info....
One complaint, if you will.
I notice you say to be careful w/ the bearings and such.
You should advise to replace all the bearings and seals while theyre out, right?
Theres no sense in putting it all back together w/ old bearings....

1) The bearings are PRESSED onto the carrier with a bearing press.

2) New bearings are expensive and the old ones 99% of the time are perfectly fine unless there is a whining noise from the front end in which case you have bigger problems on your hands.

3) REPLACING THE BEARINGS WILL OFFSET THE LASH AND PRELOAD. Which means you will now have to re-setup the entire gear assembly, quite frankly if you have the tools and instruments AND the knowledge to do this you wouldn't be reading this write-up in the first place because installing a locker is childs play compared to re-setting gears.
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My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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Unread 03-10-2006, 08:45 PM   #48
CanukYJ
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PS there is a one in a million chance the bearings you replace the old one's with will not require you to re-set the lash and preload, unfortunately this is about 1 in a million -if you are the luckiest man on earth-. Other than that, replacing the bearings and re-assembling with my instructions will = BOOM and the cost of repair will be more than just buying a new D30 from a junker.



PSS yes I crawled out of the woodwork specifically to respond to this post, I sold my YJ last fall



PSSS A new YJ is on the way this summer
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My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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Unread 03-10-2006, 09:07 PM   #49
webdr
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I dont know why you uppercased "pressed"
Im aware theyre pressed on, actually I just hammered them on with a rubber mallot and a snapon bearing driver...easy as pie, and I measured the thickness of the old shims with an el-cheapo digital caliper, bought new shims and put the exact same number together as what came out and measured them....exactially the same. Put it back together w/ new bearings which cost me all of 40 bucks for the races, bearings and shim packs and put some gear marking compound on there to check....Perfect wear pattern.
I must be one in a million.........
as long as you either reuse the old shims or put new ones in that equal the old ones, the pattern will not usually change. Its not that difficult.
I guess I go by the "replace the bearings and seals while you are in there" mentality.
BTW, im referring to the carrier bearings, not the pinion bearing
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Unread 03-10-2006, 09:29 PM   #50
CanukYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webdr
I dont know why you uppercased "pressed"
Im aware theyre pressed on, actually I just hammered them on with a rubber mallot and a snapon bearing driver...easy as pie, and I measured the thickness of the old shims with an el-cheapo digital caliper, bought new shims and put the exact same number together as what came out and measured them....exactially the same. Put it back together w/ new bearings which cost me all of 40 bucks for the races, bearings and shim packs and put some gear marking compound on there to check....Perfect wear pattern.
I must be one in a million.........
as long as you either reuse the old shims or put new ones in that equal the old ones, the pattern will not usually change. Its not that difficult.
I guess I go by the "replace the bearings and seals while you are in there" mentality.
BTW, im referring to the carrier bearings, not the pinion bearing
I used caps for pressed instead of bold, it's something I've built a habit on doing. The problems with replacing the bearings is that yes the carrier is the same but the bearings can have + or - tolerances to them. The original bearings and shims and carriers were all "matched" at the assembly line and checked for lash, preload, and gear pattern. Replacing the bearings with new one's changes one part of the equasion. For example 1 (carrier) + 2 (bearing) + 3 (shims) = 6 the proper gear pattern. By replacing the bearings and shims you are assuming the bearings still=2 and the shims still=3. They may or may not, which is why it's just not worth messing with them unless you know how to check them properly.

You did check the gear pattern, that is only 1 step. Did you check the backlash? Free play? Bearing pre-load? All the other stuff that makes gears go boom?

I'm not saying you are wrong here, I'm just emphasizing that ALOT can go wrong when messing with gear setups. By alot going wrong I mean -expensive- in the end.

Most carrier bearings last longer than the truck ever will, they are one of the few things left in this world that is built to last. If it ain't broke don't fix it, especially if you don't know how to fix it and especially especially if fixing it wrong will make matters far worse than one can imagine.

Again I'm just saying that if someone knows how to setup and check gears properly they probably won't even need to read this thread, if they need to read this thread as a guide they probably don't want to be messing with the bearings period. There's a reason most mechanics charge upward of 500$ to setup gears
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My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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Unread 03-10-2006, 10:04 PM   #51
webdr
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understood
I checked backlash the way the lockright install manual recommends which is the old "hand feel"
They feel the same. This was my first venture in pulling the carrier and It seemed to work in my favor. Your article helped alot.
Ive also read a few articles where the guy measured the old shim packs and created the same measurement with new shims, then put it back together and he lucked out. I never really thought about the bearings being different tolerances
I guess they used federal mogul at the factory!
thanks
Matt
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Unread 03-11-2006, 12:31 AM   #52
CanukYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webdr
understood
I checked backlash the way the lockright install manual recommends which is the old "hand feel"
They feel the same. This was my first venture in pulling the carrier and It seemed to work in my favor. Your article helped alot.
Ive also read a few articles where the guy measured the old shim packs and created the same measurement with new shims, then put it back together and he lucked out. I never really thought about the bearings being different tolerances
I guess they used federal mogul at the factory!
thanks
Matt
Np matt, I hope they hold out just fine for ya, glad they did work out If you do hear a whirring sound or moaning\whining noise be sure to stop driving immediately, after the temperment on the driven side of the gear teeth burns off the gears are toast and it sucks to replace . Glad the writeup helped you out though dude, it's what it's here for
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My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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Unread 03-20-2007, 11:54 AM   #53
RnEmOvr
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just used your write up and thanks helped a bunch, only thing i did different was to get the ring gear off the carrier (mine stuck) was put 4 bolts (one at each "corner" and threaded them in almost all the way (left 1/8" gap) then tapped them with rubber mallet and the ring gear fell but was caught by the bolts

Last edited by RnEmOvr; 08-11-2007 at 04:59 PM..
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Unread 03-20-2007, 05:19 PM   #54
CanukYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzntzhellfire
just used your write up and thanks helped a bunch, only thing i did different was to get the ring gear off the carrier (mine stuck) was put 4 bolts (one at each "corner" and threaded them in almost all the way (left 1/8" gap) then tapped them with rubber mallet and te ring gear fell but was caught by the bolts
Awesome, glad to hear it worked out for you. That's a good idea on the ring gear problem
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My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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Unread 08-08-2007, 11:03 AM   #55
xj-boonie
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Quick question about driving in the snow: I understand that in 2wd, it's transparent to the driver, but in 4wd, how did it handle with the locker up front on the snow?

I'm getting ready to put one in the D44 rear for my XJ, and thinking about one for the front.

Mike
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[SIZE=1]1996 XJ Sport, 3" OME lift, 31" BFG AT's, Tom Woods SYE & DS, Amsoil flat filter, Amsoil fluids, Kolak ignition & exhaust, Hidden Hitch hitch, IPF e-codes & Magic-J bulbs, T-case & Gas tank skids, AJ's super rails, C-rok brace, JKS disco's, ARB Bull Bar w/ Warn M8000.

1979 CJ5, 258 I6, T18a, glass tub/fenders/hood, 4" BDS lift, 33" BFG MT's[/SIZE]
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Unread 08-08-2007, 06:04 PM   #56
BESRK
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You might want to PM him.. doesn't look like he's very active here on the board.. might not see your question for some time..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

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Unread 08-08-2007, 11:04 PM   #57
CanukYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xj-boonie
Quick question about driving in the snow: I understand that in 2wd, it's transparent to the driver, but in 4wd, how did it handle with the locker up front on the snow?

I'm getting ready to put one in the D44 rear for my XJ, and thinking about one for the front.

Mike
Sorry for the slow response. I found it fine in the snow. Some people will say it "pushes" more in corners, but frankly this style of 4wd always pushes in corners while in 4wd. I noticed little to no extra "push" while cornering after installing it in the front. Normally when I'm turning sharp corners (90deg turns) I had the clutch pressed in anyways which removed torque from the locker and in turn allowed it to easily ratchet. Remember, if you NEED to have it in 4wd while driving on roadways the conditions are probably terrible enough that you shouldn't be going fast to begin with, 4wd adds traction, not handling or stopping
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My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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Unread 08-09-2007, 06:43 AM   #58
BESRK
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Of course.. as soon as I say you're not very active on here lately, you show up and post a couple hours later.. Doh!!
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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Unread 08-11-2007, 07:10 AM   #59
CanukYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK
Of course.. as soon as I say you're not very active on here lately, you show up and post a couple hours later.. Doh!!
Lol yeah I'm not active on the board but I make sure to subscribe to my writeups in case anyone runs into any problems with them. I get an email as soon as people reply
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My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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Unread 08-11-2007, 10:26 AM   #60
The Rat
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Picture links seem to be dead.

edit: But good writeup. Bookmarked for when I do mine.
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OH WAIT. WHAT?
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