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Unread 04-29-2013, 06:35 PM   #16
laybackman
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Is that steel pipe? If it is hard steel that may be your problem. Plumbing type pipe is soft steel.

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Unread 04-29-2013, 06:37 PM   #17
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And you need to use ample oil for lubrication when you do any pipe or bolt threading.
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Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

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Unread 04-29-2013, 06:47 PM   #18
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got kicked off here for some reason.
i have no idea if it's steel pipe vs softer pipe for plumbing. i'll have to go back to lowe's and take a look at the rack i got it from. i've been oiling it when cutting...but prob not enough. i'm guessing that cutting something like this, if i think i've got too much oil on it, it's prob just about right.

once again, it's the questions ya don't even know to ask that come back and bite ya'. as well as a host of other things.

thx
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Unread 04-29-2013, 07:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madduck View Post
ok, i've downloaded the pics into flickr. don't i copy and paste the link info into the pic window that opens up here?
Individual photos can be posted by using the address of the location of that photograph enclosed by [IMG] tags in front and in back of the photograph address; The little yellow image with the mountain does that for you. All you do is copy/clip in the address of the picture.

Example:

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Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

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Unread 04-29-2013, 07:11 PM   #20
underpowered
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from the pic, your die is in the holder upside down. the 3 pins on the backside of the die are to align the pipe as it goes into the die to keep it level as you thread. open them up to go over the pipe, then flip the die over to get the taper correct. it should be easier to put pressure on the die and keep it straight this way. use lots of oil, you can't use too much.
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Unread 04-29-2013, 08:33 PM   #21
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sorry, got called away.

layback: i familiar with the mountain image thingy, that's the window i referenced. the http is highlighted when it opens, does it stay or go?
then, on flickr, you have two choices you can either grab the link, or grab the HTML/BBC code.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/madduck00/8694713380/" title="DSCN1091 by madduck00, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8393/8694713380_459cf4061e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN1091"></a>

referencing this, does this stay?<a href="

underpower: thanks so much, i wondered what those pins were for. like i said all the tapping and cutting i've done before has been on nuts, bolts, stripped threads, yada-yada-yada. that will help huge!

and looks like i'll be getting some more oil. anything y'all recommend? i'm leaving town tomorrow morn so i'll prob look on amazon and see what they have. if i'm lucky it'll be delivered before i get back for the weekend.

thanks so much for the help here guys. (don't think either one of ya' is a gal, if you are i apologize.)
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Unread 04-30-2013, 05:47 AM   #22
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You want BB code, not HTML, most forums don't allow HTML.
HTML uses < BB code uses [
So an image tag for BB code looks like this [*IMG]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8694711958_3f5400a1a3_c.jpg[*/IMG] (minus the *'s)

If you press the insert image button then paste the direct image link in the box, your good too.

Make sure you get the direct URL, which it seems on flicker involves right clicking the image, picking a size (i picked medium 800) and then right clicking the resulting image and slecting "Copy Image URL"





FWIW
I see no issue with the way the die is in the holder, as if you flipped it around then the pressure when tapping would be trying to push the die out of the holder. Maybe that is not an issue? I dont use dies very often though, and don't own any pipe dies. I have used a ratcheting pie threader in the past though that was easy to get started, and the dies had their own centering guide.

like this one
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perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
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It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 05:58 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kettles View Post
You want BB code, not HTML, most forums don't allow HTML.
HTML uses < BB code uses [
So an image tag for BB code looks like this [*IMG]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8694711958_3f5400a1a3_c.jpg[*/IMG] (minus the *'s)

If you press the insert image button then paste the direct image link in the box, your good too.

Make sure you get the direct URL, which it seems on flicker involves right clicking the image, picking a size (i picked medium 800) and then right clicking the resulting image and slecting "Copy Image URL"





FWIW
I see no issue with the way the die is in the holder, as if you flipped it around then the pressure when tapping would be trying to push the die out of the holder. Maybe that is not an issue? I dont use dies very often though, and don't own any pipe dies. I have used a ratcheting pie threader in the past though that was easy to get started, and the dies had their own centering guide.

like this one
Those guide pins are definitely in the way. My older dies do not even have those pins. But I think that die is in it's handle properly. You start out tapping the pipe threads with the large side of the die first, facing down over the end of the pipe, and don't forget the cutting oil.

And I do not think that Home Depot or any other building supply store sells hardened steel pipe
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Unread 05-02-2013, 05:48 PM   #24
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I have found chainsaw bar oil to work really good with just a bit of atf mixed in. Figure 1 part atf to 3parts bar oil.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 10:02 PM   #25
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ok guys, been out of town and i hate using my phone on forums. thanks for the input here over that last couple of days.

like i said before, i didn't understand what/how/why those pins were in the handle. i see what underpower is referencing by turning the die around, opening the pins and inserting the pipe from the pin side. they should help keep the die square with the pipe. plus, if i cut the pipe as the die is in the handle now, the pipe will bottom out on the pins, so the pins are going to have to be opened one way or another to get the pipe through. may as well use them to my advantage. i can't wait to try it tomorrow from the pin side...and after turning the die around.

and thanks for the oil suggestion. only home for 3 days this week but looking forward to trying out these ideas.

thanks again for everyone's time.

cheers, j-
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Unread 05-03-2013, 05:36 AM   #26
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I don't agree that the pipe will bottom out, NPT threads are tapered, meaning the threads are of a different diameter on either ends of the die. Thus you tap until the pipe gets to the back side of the die. ANy further and the first threads won't taper and you might not be able to properly tighten the joint.

Now you can still use the pins to center the pipe, but don't think they were in the way before.
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perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
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Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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Unread 05-03-2013, 09:31 AM   #27
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kettles, i didn't know that.
so whatever the depth of the die is is the max depth you'd want to cut a pipe?

i'm just using this for decorative purposes now, but have plans for home projects later. i'd never do something like electrical or plumbing work without having one of my smart friends look at my work before covering it up, i.e. drywall, concrete, etc., so i'm interested in the correct/professional way to do this.

thanks
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Unread 05-03-2013, 03:25 PM   #28
Kettles
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Here is a good illustration



They taper so it will become tight and provide a fluid seal. If it had no taper pipes would thread until they bottom out on something, and it wouldn't seal.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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