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Unread 06-12-2007, 08:53 AM   #1
Happy Joe
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How to cut differential plug welds?

I am doing a custom D44 high pinion for the CJ7. Have tried to cut the differential case to tube plug welds using; a torch (cannot get the plug welds, at the bottoms of 9/16" holes hot enough to cut, or the high nickel rod used is not compatible with flame cutting), tool steel bits and titanium nitride bits, no luck.
Currently awaiting delivery of some cobalt bits and milling cutters.
any other ideas?

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Unread 06-12-2007, 03:36 PM   #2
BESRK
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Maybe center drill with a 1/4" bit then use an annular cutter of the correct size to "mill" it out. Have you tried gouging with a good plasma cutter?
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Unread 06-12-2007, 10:52 PM   #3
jason m
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i air arc them out, is this going to be a front or a rear 44? if its a front can you just cut and weld the C's. i know the driver side tube will be short but you could cut and sleeve the tube, cut the C off then have a sleeve made and slide it into the tube and re-weld it. i did a 60 rear ( dana 60U out of a forn van ) like this and its held up to 39's and a heavy foot. when i was rebuilding crane section's this is how whe spliced the cord section back together, jason.
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Unread 06-13-2007, 07:07 AM   #4
Happy Joe
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Thanx for the replies!
I don't have a plasma cutter, but a friend does, so if I cannot get the cobalt bits to bite into the welds I will give that a try. (Hopefully they will come today).
If the cobalt bits do work then I am on my way.
This is going in the front of my 7. I would rather just replace the tubes and knuckles as complete assemblies. A high pinion D44 in back would be rather weak, so I will go with a standard cut D44 rear. I usually run 35s so D44s should have adequate strength.

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Unread 06-13-2007, 07:34 AM   #5
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Sorry for the mini hijack... Jason, you've cut/sleeved a D60? I have a GM front 60 that I want to swap the tube lengths on and use it in a rear steer configuration on my buggy. I want the rear pumpkin to be on the passenger side like the front pumpkin. I've been wondering how I was going to do this.. remove welds and press out tubes?.. or just remove knuckles, cut/swap tubes and sleeve/reweld. I figured since it's gonna be trussed anyway it should hold up to my 42s and some flogging. Plan is to run a Detroit, Longfield CVs and drive pucks.
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Unread 06-14-2007, 12:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK
Sorry for the mini hijack... Jason, you've cut/sleeved a D60? I have a GM front 60 that I want to swap the tube lengths on and use it in a rear steer configuration on my buggy. I want the rear pumpkin to be on the passenger side like the front pumpkin. I've been wondering how I was going to do this.. remove welds and press out tubes?.. or just remove knuckles, cut/swap tubes and sleeve/reweld. I figured since it's gonna be trussed anyway it should hold up to my 42s and some flogging. Plan is to run a Detroit, Longfield CVs and drive pucks.
i am planing a rear steer to ( single seater saturn motor ) and im going to run two HP 60's. i did a ford dana 60U last sept for a friend's rubi buggy and he's has been beating it like it owes him money ( specs are, full spool, 35 chrome shafts and 39 krawlers ). we cut the tube where we wanted it, had a peace of 1/2 wall tube ( i forget the over all tube demision ) machined to slip fit the inner tubes. over all the sleeve was 8'' long ( 4'' for each side of the beval ) then i stood the axle up on its end ( so i could a 100% full pen ) and sprayed the root, ( duel shield would of worked better but i did'nt have any at the time ) then i just welded two more pass's V-up on bolth side's. the truss from the clayton kit went over the spliced area so there was even some extra meet there.

this is something i was certified for at the crane shop only differnce was we did the root with tig. i never had a crane cord fail ( thank god ), there will be some that might disagree but i dont do this as a hobby its my bread and butter. i now weld for a major norhteast CAT dealer as a union welder ( IAM local 447 ).

so to answer your question i have seen your work and know you weld alot of the heavy stuff ( the stuff that matters ) with duel shild core wire, so i know you can pull this off. its just metling steel, just has to be done right, build your sleeve right and the it will carry all the wheaght, the weld will just hold them together, jason.
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Unread 06-14-2007, 06:16 AM   #7
BESRK
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Excellent. I've got a lathe and 2.75"x.500" DOM to use as a sleeve so that's not an issue. I'll just make sure to leave enough room inside for the shaft to pass thru..

I hear ya on the crane booms. I'm a crane instructor for the Army. Grew up on a P&H 300 Ton Lattice Boom Crane.. later moved down to a Linkbelt 140 Ton Truck Mounted Lattice Boom Crane. Biggest fear was working with new Soldiers who didn't understand the importance of NOT denting the boom chords/lattices. I used to tell them to put a plastic straw in compression by pushing in on the ends. Then, I'd flick it with my finger in the middle causing it to fold up. I'd tell them, "Now, how'd you like to have 100 tons hanging over your head and have someone do that to your crane boom?" I used to watch the repair guys come down and weld on our booms when we damaged them.. it's pretty much a zero defect environment.
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Unread 06-14-2007, 08:49 AM   #8
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with out getting to off topic, i used to here it alot from the operators " i only touched the side of the building and before i new it the crane just failed". its pretty simple and straight forward doing the splice and as long as you have enough room for the inner shaft . 2.75'' .500 wall leaves you an ID of 1.75 so it will it leave a .125 bofore the shaft contacts it. this is plenty because if your housing flexs that much ( especially in the spliced area ) then you got more problems than just the shaft touching the inner ID, jason.
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