homemade upper shock mounts

**YJames90** · 09-11-2007, 06:30 PM

so,,, Ive got a problem with my upper rear mount tore off after a off road trip
I dont want to weld on a new section but possibly bolt on a bracket
I think i found the perfect section of metal
Its a plow frame from an older jeep
[IMG]

[/IMG]
unbolt the cross section going to the other side,
Cut off the short tap going to the left in the picture
Cut the verticle part to length so I can bolt it to the frame to the correct length
I just have to drill two holes ithrough the frame and the new mounts and bolt them up with grade 8 bolts
[IMG]

[/IMG]
the second picture is a mock up of my idea
The flat part on the left willbe bolted to the frame and how the shock allows for the off set of the original mount
I need a sleeve and a bolt to mount the shock
It looks good to me but Im no frabricator
The metal on the right side of the shock is the old mount that tore off
Any suggestions on the best sawzall blade?
Thanks
All comments are welcome
My other side will need the same work done too

360wrangler · 09-11-2007, 08:25 PM

best blades!!!!

these are f-250 towers that you can use for a rear or front mount. i got them for $11 a peice at the ford dealer

**YJames90** · 09-12-2007, 02:17 AM

Those are welded on?
I was thinking about my idea and want to put a backing plate on the outside side of the frame to sandwich the frame
drill only through the plates and bolt across the top and bottom of the frame
This is how my plow frame was mounted to the jeep and never moved
I cant see it not being strong enough

jonnyri · 09-12-2007, 01:22 PM

The only concern I'd raise about bolting on shock mounts is this:

I had the exact same thing happen, but when I started griding it down I realized how bad the metal on top of the frame where it rusted out was compromized.

You can see it on the left side of the frame rail. I made a new frame bracket out of 3/8 plate and it's much stronger without the rust.

You can see the whole writeup here: http://www.dogdigger.com/2007/07/11/shock-mount

**YJames90** · 09-12-2007, 01:56 PM

Im going to home depot today to buy a life time supply of sawzall blades to make the cuts
I will post more dry fit pics later

**YJames90** · 09-13-2007, 04:24 PM

Just bought these off ebay for 30.00
They are rear uppers from a range rover
I figure they can be welded to the inside of the frame and all should be ok
Maybe drilled and tap the frame on the side where the gas lines are.
A friend brought up the question if its weldable metal?
Shouldnt it be ??

dirtman13 · 09-13-2007, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 360wrangler

best blades!!!!

these are f-250 towers that you can use for a rear or front mount. i got them for $11 a peice at the ford dealer

What year truck are those from? Are do you have the part number? Thanks

360wrangler · 09-13-2007, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtman13

What year truck are those from? Are do you have the part number? Thanks

the part number is E5TZ-18183-A and they are from a 86 - 88 ford f 250

360wrangler · 09-13-2007, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamesx2

Those are welded on?
I was thinking about my idea and want to put a backing plate on the outside side of the frame to sandwich the frame
drill only through the plates and bolt across the top and bottom of the frame
This is how my plow frame was mounted to the jeep and never moved
I cant see it not being strong enough

they bolt on

**YJames90** · 09-14-2007, 02:21 AM

The top of the shock goes in between thoses two holes?
how and where did you bolt it to?
Do you have pictures?

dirtman13 · 09-14-2007, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 360wrangler

the part number is E5TZ-18183-A and they are from a 86 - 88 ford f 250

Cool. Thanks.

**YJames90** · 09-14-2007, 11:28 AM

Do you have pics of them mounted?

**Dan Fredrickson** · 09-14-2007, 04:44 PM

DO NOT bolt them on unless it sees the street only, they will rip right through the frame. DO NOT weld them on without gusseting the back to the top of the frame or they will tear the frame open like a tin can.

I have used them many times and as long as you take care to use them correctly they are fine but Ford discontinued production of them 2 years ago, they made a ton of them but someday they will run out of the ones in stock.

If you look at ours you will get the idea of how they need to be gusseted, if you are working on a mall cruiser disregard, they will work fine!

**YJames90** · 09-15-2007, 05:51 AM

The tops look alot different from when you bought them,

I really dont have those fab skills

**Dan Fredrickson** · 09-15-2007, 03:32 PM

Adding a couple of trangular gussets to the back shouldn't be too hard. First remove the powdercoating from the area you are going to be welding on, including the back where the gussets will go. Position them and weld them to the frame. Make some cardboard templates of the gussets and make the gussets, weld them to the area on the back of the towers and to the top of the frame.

Another alternative is to cut the lower area of the towers like you see the bottom profile of ours and weld them to the frame that way. I would still gusset them if you do that but they would be much stronger if done that way. Ours have the additional bend in the back that both spreads out the stresses and gives additional weld area eliminating the need for gussteing.

Not too hard of a project but be confidant of your welding skills before you do this yourself.

09-11-2007, 08:25 PM	#2
360wrangler Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: harleysvile pa Posts: 238 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	best blades!!!! these are f-250 towers that you can use for a rear or front mount. i got them for $11 a peice at the ford dealer __________________ "build it to break it, if it breaks it wasn't built well enuf" [URL="https://give.ccci.org/give?Action=ProcessPage&Page=Home&Listener=search2&Query=0589812"]FREINDS OF MINE DOING A GREAT THING FOR KIDS [COLOR="Red"][SIZE="2"]CLICK HERE[/SIZE][/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.pbrc.net"][COLOR="Yellow"]PITBULL RESCUE[/COLOR][/url] [URL="http://www.fullcircle4x4.com/"]full circle 4x4 610-970-9977[/URL]

09-14-2007, 04:44 PM	#13
Dan Fredrickson Vendor Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Loomis, CA Posts: 1,882 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	The Ford towers are great, HOWEVER....... DO NOT bolt them on unless it sees the street only, they will rip right through the frame. DO NOT weld them on without gusseting the back to the top of the frame or they will tear the frame open like a tin can. I have used them many times and as long as you take care to use them correctly they are fine but Ford discontinued production of them 2 years ago, they made a ton of them but someday they will run out of the ones in stock. If you look at ours you will get the idea of how they need to be gusseted, if you are working on a mall cruiser disregard, they will work fine! __________________ Dan Fredrickson www.ruffstuffspecialties.com Much Better Than Good Enough Sales 916.509.2242/Sales & Tech 916.600.1945

09-15-2007, 03:32 PM	#15
Dan Fredrickson Vendor Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Loomis, CA Posts: 1,882 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Time to develop those fab skills...... Adding a couple of trangular gussets to the back shouldn't be too hard. First remove the powdercoating from the area you are going to be welding on, including the back where the gussets will go. Position them and weld them to the frame. Make some cardboard templates of the gussets and make the gussets, weld them to the area on the back of the towers and to the top of the frame. Another alternative is to cut the lower area of the towers like you see the bottom profile of ours and weld them to the frame that way. I would still gusset them if you do that but they would be much stronger if done that way. Ours have the additional bend in the back that both spreads out the stresses and gives additional weld area eliminating the need for gussteing. Not too hard of a project but be confidant of your welding skills before you do this yourself. __________________ Dan Fredrickson www.ruffstuffspecialties.com Much Better Than Good Enough Sales 916.509.2242/Sales & Tech 916.600.1945