Homebrew Fiberglass Snorkel - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 57 Old 09-23-2010, 04:30 AM
ex m38a1er
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^^^^^^^You;ve done a wonderfull job but i cannot weld allu plus it is
not my kind...
I've been following your thread full of interest


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post #47 of 57 Old 10-26-2010, 10:24 AM
ex m38a1er
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Had some time to play with some foam tha t i had lying around...

The snorkel comes out of the bonnet right next to the stock filter box of
my 2.4(pretty convinient)

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post #48 of 57 Old 12-13-2010, 11:39 AM
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what's next?

COOL
NEXT??? any progress
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post #49 of 57 Old 12-14-2010, 07:23 AM
ex m38a1er
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Well...if it's me you're asking, i gave up working with foam and going for a
better quality wood template...
Pics soon(Xmas=free time,he,he)

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post #50 of 57 Old 12-14-2010, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ex m38a1er View Post
Well...if it's me you're asking, i gave up working with foam and going for a
better quality wood template...
Pics soon(Xmas=free time,he,he)
I just wish to see every part of it. good luck
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post #51 of 57 Old 12-14-2010, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClimbStuff View Post
Fiberglass is very brittle. You can do like GM and reinforce it with balsa wood, but if it gets smacked its going to shatter, and all those awesome little fiberglass fibers will get pulled right into the engine. The closest that FG should ever get to an intake port is if its a scoop over top of it... that's it.
I run fiberglass bodies on oval dirt track karts and they hold up good to 65-80 MPH hits I usually run the same body all season and somtimes take some very hard hits. So I would say fiberglass is plenty strong enough if done correctly.
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post #52 of 57 Old 12-15-2010, 02:08 AM
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^^^^^^^^^^^ Good to know

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post #53 of 57 Old 01-09-2011, 11:53 AM
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if anyone is still interested in this..I am almost done with a fiberglass snorkel. You can fing my build thread here..DIY JK Snorkel

Oh, and I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that you will not break this snorkel on a tree, tree branch, rubbing a rock, or anything like that. I made a prototype and tested it..I could even park the jeep on it without it breaking..

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The more you play with it, the bigger it gets!
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post #54 of 57 Old 01-11-2011, 10:33 AM
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if anyone is still interested in this..I am almost done with a fiberglass snorkel. You can fing my build thread here..DIY JK Snorkel
impressive
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post #55 of 57 Old 01-20-2011, 02:48 PM
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seems like a lot of bondo, did you really need that much, seems like sanding the fiberglass would net the same thing, especially if you were going to use bedliner on the finished product?
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post #56 of 57 Old 01-20-2011, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jclaudii View Post
seems like a lot of bondo, did you really need that much, seems like sanding the fiberglass would net the same thing, especially if you were going to use bedliner on the finished product?
There isn't that much on there really. Most of it was sanded off. You need a good coat in order to get it smooth. The bedliner I am useing is a semi gloss type and WILL show any low spots. So you definetly need it to be smooth. You would not be able to get the smoothness from sanding fiberglass alone, not to mention that it would TAKE FOREVER..lol.

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post #57 of 57 Old 01-25-2011, 02:29 AM
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There's a trick to getting mat to lay smooth and, therefore, take about 10 pounds less filler. First, use butcher paper to figure out patterns for the pieces of glass. Mat doesn't stretch/move/behave until it's wet, so the butcher paper makes good templates. Once you have that done, do the same for some 3/4 oz glass cloth and do your best to stagger the edges. Wet out the glass, lay it on the plug, and scrape off most of the resin. The surface of the cloth shouldn't be shiny. Now the fun part. Wrap the whole thing in the widest electrical tape you can find pulling it fairly tight. Once it's green (solid, but sticky) trim the edges, give it a bit longer and pull off the tape. Getting the plug out is a different story. I usually use EPS foam plugs covered in clear packing tape. Once the glass is cured I use whatever solvent is handy to disolve the foam out of the part, then pull out the tape. It makes a giant mess and stinks like the end of the world, but it works.

Done like that the outside surface will be fairly smooth and shouldn't need much filler. If you really want to go overboard and get a near perfect surface, vacuum bag it. I've made a few bagged parts and they needed zero filling and just a quick scuff and wipe with acetone to be ready for primer.

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