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Unread 09-17-2010, 02:08 AM   #31
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Making a mold will raise the cost but it will make a much cleaner part. It's all about a pretty and smooth gel coat layer staring you in the face. Not to mention if you do smash it you can make a new one in a couple hours

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Unread 09-17-2010, 07:40 AM   #32
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And what if i have no idea how to make a mold?
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Unread 09-17-2010, 08:00 AM   #33
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Ive very interested in this thread. I have always wanted one for my JK but really dont want to cut into the hood or the side of the jeep to install the aftermarket styles. If I can somehow route it to come out next to the wiper blades I will give the wire mold method a try. I have tons of fiberglass from making surfboards with and have always found working with it relaxing, however it can be frustrating when not prepard properly..
This snorkel would be just to install a prefilter and looks/CAI. I hardly have any water around here and really just do desert wheeling so trees wouldnt be a issue.

I used fiberglass to make a woofer box for my last car and molded it out of foil and tape, but I couldnt get it off afterwords. The wire method sounds like its easier to remove. I cant believe I have never seen anyone make a box with it before.

If you make one, be sure to use bondo with fiberglass in it. Its much stronger then the normal stuff for body work and comes out just the same.
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Unread 09-17-2010, 01:00 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ex m38a1er View Post
And what if i have no idea how to make a mold?


well that does make it more difficult but, Making mold is actually pretty easy. The first thing to do is make a "plug". which is nothing more than making it look exactly like you want out of wood.

I like to use wood and bondo personally to make the plug. I feel like it it usually stronger than foams and and it is just as easy to shape IMO. once you have made your plug and it is perfect, go a head a lay a really thick layer of primer on it. Runs don't matter because you'll be sanding it all again.

Once the primer is dry you want to sand it all back out so That it is nice and smooth again.

The hard part is figuring out the "Parting Lines". The Parting line is simply where the 2 halves of the mold meet. so you have to really look at your parts and make sure it will come out of the mold with out destroying it. Take a sharpie and draw the parting line on it.

This part is a little harder to explain but, grab some 1/2" MDF and cut it into 2" wide strips and then cut those into small pieces. Rub the part down with some mold release wax. Then your going to simply hot glue the the wood pieces along the parting line to create the first part of the flange. once you have the flange all the way around, put bondo on that to make the flange smooth all the way around. and make sure it has a nice sharp edge.

I always put alignment spots in my molds to make sure they are going to line up to the same spot every time. I glue them right to the wood flange so that it is part of the first flange.

Now you was to rub it all down with mold release again, then you want a nice thin and even layer of mold release spray. You have to make it even or your mold will have waves in it.

Now your ready to spray on the gel coat. This part is simply spray as much as you can on there. it doesn't have to be even and runs don't matter. Let your gel coat dry and then start laying your fiberglass mat and resin over the gel coat. I use a minimum of 4 mat layers to make sure it's going to last.

once that half of the mold is dry start popping off the wood flange. You want to go around and lightly sand the new fiberglass flange and make sure it it nice and flat.

Then your going to start with the mold release and gel coat and do the whole process over again.

At the end of this you should have a good mold, and be able to replicate your parts. not to mention your parts will look good. It's a lot to take in, I will try to get some pictures of the next mold I make. The key is Take Your Time, It takes me over a week to make a mold and I usually work on the plug for about a week. Mold Making is a good skill
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Unread 09-19-2010, 11:12 PM   #35
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Thank you VERY much for your time and efford.
My father is a carpender and i have acces and knowledge to everything
so i can make a "plug".
It's the rest that scares me...
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Unread 09-20-2010, 11:01 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Thank you VERY much for your time and efford.
My father is a carpender and i have acces and knowledge to everything
so i can make a "plug".
It's the rest that scares me...
Not a problem. When I make another mold I'll take some pictures along the way. but to be honest I'm not sure when that is. It is really not very difficult and once you start my ramblings will make more sense
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Unread 09-21-2010, 02:28 AM   #37
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Personally i was thinking of using a piece of styrofoam,form it the way i like it,fiberglass it and then use some kind of solvent to melt the styrofoam from the inside of the formed tube...
if you use polyester resin you wont need a solvent to melt the styrofoam away it will do that while your trying to lay it up.
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Unread 09-21-2010, 02:35 AM   #38
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The foam that surfboards are made out of will work. Would be easy to shape and wouldnt take very long to hollow out with a drill with sanding wheels and such.
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Unread 09-21-2010, 05:18 AM   #39
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Meaning the white or the light blue foam?
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Unread 09-21-2010, 05:24 AM   #40
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If you were to built a mold for a snorkel like this...

you would have to deal with two curves one to follow tha line of the hood
and a second one to go up along the windshield.
Is it better to make it a four piece?
Horizontal(right-left)and vertical(right-left)?
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Unread 09-21-2010, 12:46 PM   #41
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The foam that surfboards are made out of will work. Would be easy to shape and wouldnt take very long to hollow out with a drill with sanding wheels and such.
surfboard blanks in the size needed are a bit pricey. you would have to cut the final unit in half to remove the foam and then re-glass it back together.

id go the direction of making a mold. this way you can produce a number of pieces to choose from for the final unit. you can easily make more if friends want one or your original gets stolen etc etc.
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Unread 09-21-2010, 01:08 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ex m38a1er View Post
If you were to built a mold for a snorkel like this...

you would have to deal with two curves one to follow tha line of the hood
and a second one to go up along the windshield.
Is it better to make it a four piece?
Horizontal(right-left)and vertical(right-left)?
That is actaully 2 seprerate molds, the snorkel itself and then the top cap. But both molds are only 2 piece molds. You could make it a 3 piece mold to just make it easire to get the part out but, I wouldn't do a 4 piece just because you would have 4 parting lines that would have to be cleaned up and for sure have 1 of the parting lines starting at you on the side.
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Unread 09-22-2010, 06:40 AM   #43
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The top car(air ram i'm gonna buy it.50$ is fair enough.
Plus that it ensures me that no rain is gonna entry...
The plug is going to be made out of wood,so a right and a left part
with hook screwed into them to be easier to get out of the mold,right?
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Unread 09-22-2010, 11:53 AM   #44
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I make the entire mold, then start sperating the 2 pieces. one half is easier than the other because the first one you take off you have the otherside to use for leverage. once the first side is off you have nothing, so I put lag bolts in the plug after I get the first half off. This gives something to pull on or slip a crow bar under.

Just remember the better the parting line the better your mold will seperate. If you make the plug send me some pictures and I could give you a good idea of your parting lines so it will come out the easiest.
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Unread 09-22-2010, 08:00 PM   #45
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why not do aluminum 1/8 inch thick tube..last forever till ya rip it off..mine has taken lots of abuse so far..


the new and old version..now that you mentioned it,this would look good across the windsheild if thats what you wanted..be a strong congo rack also..maybe use the perforated mesh across the hole front top,hehe
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