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home made tranas skid/cross member?
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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home made tranas skid/cross member?
Alright, my stock skid/cross member has seen too many rocks... it's pretty mangled and I'm gonna make my own and tuck it up out of the way. So, I'm gonna make something like this for my trans mount. Its gonna sit flush with the frame rails..
Do you guys think 14 gauge wall(it says .90 in my paint art but I was wrong) will be strong enough for the supports? also how will 3/32" hold up to rocks and such? I'm trying to save weight as much as possible, but keep it strong as possible. ![]() I'll post up my progress in the next few days
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 581
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seems kinda lightweight to me...............
__________________
THIS AIN'T YOUR MAMA'S STATION WAGON!! Built Jeep Tough With Chevy Stuff "Tater 2" '91 2 door XJ chopped and bobbed, 4.0, AW4, dana 300, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s SEE THE BUILD HERE |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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X2, 14G is roughly 1/8" and I would use any less than that for something thats gonna be hitting rock. Im planning on doing a flat belly on my CJ and Ill probably use a 3/16" sheet and some 1/4" angle but I like to have my stuff plenty strong.
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1989 Jeep Comanche MJ: 2WD, 4.0L, BA-10, D30, D35, 4" IRO Front, SOA Rear, Winch Bumper, Trimmed Fenders/ Bed. Working on 2wd->4x4 Conversation. My Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-slow-build-89-jeep-mj-off-road-hunting-rig-pic-heavy-1268973/ |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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how about 3/16" wall on the square tubing and 1/4 on all the angle iron?
What would you recommend for the skid plate itself? I'm not planning on having many large gaps under it, the biggest one will be around 3x5 inches |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Posted this in your thread in the YJ section but wasn't sure you saw it.
I built a similar frame and skid for my YJ. I just started fitting it all together an came up with a design to wrap around my drivetrain. After seeing my stock skid plate after its last trip, I seriously overbuilt the new setup. I used 1/4" 3x3 angle for the frame mounts (could have used 3/16" but I friend gave me the 1/4" for free, so..). For the actual frame I used 3/16" wall 1.5" square tube, a peice of 3/16" plate for the trans mount, then some 3/16" tabs to bolt the actual skid plate to. The skid plate is 3/16" steel as well and bolts to the frame in 6 places. I've landed hard on this new setup a number of times and its still in perfect shape. Here is what I found after my last trip with the stock skidplate ![]() Started with this as the base ![]() Then continued forward and ended up with this ![]() Cut this out to match up with the frame ![]() and it mounts to the frame with countersunk bolts (I've since smoothed up all the welds) ![]() Hope that helps. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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thats almost exactly how i'm planning on making this. But you have a pass side drop.
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#7 |
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Web Wheeler
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WOW.. that is very cool
Nicely done !! |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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use 1.5 .120 tube and skin it with 1/4" aluminum. That will be plenty light. Going thinner than .120 on the framework is asking for trouble.
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#9 | |
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Member
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Quote:
__________________
'89, 4.2, NUTTERED, Team Rush, 4" lift, 1"BL, 1"MML, Flat belly skid, SYE, CV Driveshaft,
35 x 12.50s, XRC8, 150w KC's, Herculined, Tauras Elec Fan, Dual Batteries, 1" shackles & Soft Top for the summer, TJ flares. |
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