[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by raskull

He says 1/4 in the post.

Looks good man.. How come you didn't use countersunk bolts?

I would like to use countersunk bolts but don't like the idea of using a hex driver to torque those down or even worse to get them out. Im gona run it like this for a little but eventually I will probable make a washer type guard that BESERK suggested in the fabrication section.

[rmb2485]

Originally Posted by scotch740

I would like to use countersunk bolts but don't like the idea of using a hex driver to torque those down or even worse to get them out. Im gona run it like this for a little but eventually I will probable make a washer type guard that BESERK suggested in the fabrication section.

Think about that... Using a hex driver to torque down an allen head bolt is no different than using a 6 point socket to torque down a hex head bolt. The shapes of the driver and fastener head are just reversed.

[ovrszd]

Originally Posted by rmb2485

Think about that... Using a hex driver to torque down an allen head bolt is no different than using a 6 point socket to torque down a hex head bolt. The shapes of the driver and fastener head are just reversed.

But, when it rounds off how do you get ahold of the allen head bolt. I hate those things!!!

[cincytj]

Originally Posted by scotch740

Here is a picture of the 33 Engineering mount.


I had to replace those bolts with flat heads. I will try to get a pic of it mounted but the bracing along with everything being crammed in there makes it difficult to shoot.
The links in my first post as well as the 33 Eng. link in my sig go to a thread I made kinda reviewing the mount.

this mount is either an Nth degree mount bought by 33 or they copied it right down the the oval lightening holes and the silver cad plating. Even the rubber mount is identical. I would call nth and see if you can get it cheaper directly through them.

[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by cincytj

this mount is either an Nth degree mount bought by 33 or they copied it right down the the oval lightening holes and the silver cad plating. Even the rubber mount is identical. I would call nth and see if you can get it cheaper directly through them.

Humm interesting, I didnt know that. Little late for me but do you have a picture of the Nth mount?

[dirtbagofva]

When i get around to going belly-up I am totally stealling your drawing...This looks like alot of good work. I'm in the same boat, half an Engineer driving an LJ. I think I will weld 1/4" spacers down each rail to coutntersink the bolt heads though. Other than that, it will be a pure copy (minus the brush marks).

[Scotch740]

Requesting a moderator to move this to somewhere in the Fab section. Thank you .

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by rmb2485

Think about that... Using a hex driver to torque down an allen head bolt is no different than using a 6 point socket to torque down a hex head bolt. The shapes of the driver and fastener head are just reversed.

You need to study fasteners a bit more. A six point socket on a hex head cap screw has the head being larger diameter than the threaded shank and more torque is able to be exerted both in tightening and removal.

Countersunk or more accurately, flat head socket head cap screws use a driver that is smaller than the diameter of the threaded shank. That means less torque is able to be used for both installation and removal. Since few of this style are plated, the larger surface area on the tapered area of the head in contact with the countersunk hole becomes very problematical to remove if the slightest amount of corrosion takes place.

[wEsttsEw686]

very cool, I like the flatness, Not bad at all.

[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by mrblaine

You need to study fasteners a bit more. A six point socket on a hex head cap screw has the head being larger diameter than the threaded shank and more torque is able to be exerted both in tightening and removal.

Countersunk or more accurately, flat head socket head cap screws use a driver that is smaller than the diameter of the threaded shank. That means less torque is able to be used for both installation and removal. Since few of this style are plated, the larger surface area on the tapered area of the head in contact with the countersunk hole becomes very problematical to remove if the slightest amount of corrosion takes place.

Good explanation, thanks. Fortunately all the Flat head socket cap screws I used were stainless steel, so hopefully I won't have too many problems.

[Dogman]

So, let's hear some ideas on how to countersink the mounting bolts....

[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by dogman

So, let's hear some ideas on how to countersink the mounting bolts....

Next time I am doing a big over haul I plan to weld on some 1/4" plate on top of the skid between it and the frame. I will then use a hole saw to drill through the skid till I come to that new spacer plate, and drill through that spacer with a 1/2" bit. That will give me protection for most of the bolt head and eliminate the washers I am using to drop the skid. Of course at that point I will have a SYE+CV and lift and will not need that drop at all. But I will be wanting to protect the washers then.

I had considered doing that this time but this was my first welding project and I did not want to trust my first welds to hold up my tansmission. Now I feel confident and would be fine with it, but it is already painted and mounted, and those trany mounting bolts are a PITA to get to.

[bairy]

I really doubt you would have that much trouble with some flat head counter sunk bolts holding that on. If you are worried about how much torque you can put on them, add 2 more per size and drill/tap the frame. But as blaine said above, the conical shape of those countersunk bolts have a lot of surface area.

technically torx head bolts are stronger than the Allen head ones if you can find them in a flat head.

--
You can take some 1x 3/8 bar stock and run it length wise down over the bolts. Drill holes large enough for the head of the bolts, and hold the bar onto the skid by some small counter sunk flat head bolts. This would protect the heads of the bolts. But a side to side sliding on a rock could shear off the bar.

[80 CHOPPER]

Nice job, looks like i need to get a new welder.

[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by 80 CHOPPER

Nice job, looks like i need to get a new welder.

I used a 220V stick welder, not that pretty of welds but I could burn a hole through that 1/4" plate with it on 105 amps, so it should be strong enough for about anything I will want to do. They are pretty cheap I think, my dad has had this one for as long as I can remember. Its a Lincoln 220, it was super easy for me to learn on also. However I have never used a MIG.

Bairy,
I wanted to use some torx for those bolts and countersink them but the specialty fasteners shop didn't have any.