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Old 08-11-2007, 06:14 PM   #31
Dogman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740
From that site which I had not seen the dimensions yet.

# Regular - 7/8" in length (Only stick out 1/2" more than standard oil plug head.)
# N-Type (w/Nipple) - 1 1/2" in length

I am almost positive the 1-1/2" one will hang below my skid but the 7/8" one might be the ticket. Or I might go with the Nipple one and cut it off. Or just unscrew the nipple in between changes.

Anyone Know if that Nipple can be removed easily? Looks like a simple bolt on piece.
Pretty sure that extra length is just from the nipple itself.

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Old 08-13-2007, 07:02 AM   #32
Scotch740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogman
Pretty sure that extra length is just from the nipple itself.
The one with the nipple is 1-1/2" total the one without is 7/8" total (1/2" longer).

I ordered the one with the nipple. I figure I will try it out, see how it goes. I am almost positive it will be sticking out below. In that case I will try to unscrew the nipple from the valve and hope it solves it. If that doesn't get it up above my skid I will be looking to lower my skid with a spacer if its close or selling it if I don't think it will work.

kinda a gamble on this but it would make oil changes SO much easier I'm gonna take it.
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Old 08-13-2007, 07:55 PM   #33
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Well I got home today and my Fumo Drain valve had arrived. I promptly took off the nipple to discover the "valve ball" falls out with out the nipple piece installed. There goes my idea of removing the nipple for clearance inbetween oil changes.

My second though was to cut off the nipple. Well I measured and marked on a socket where this would be. Put the socket on my drain plug and the mark (piece of tape) was right at level with the bottom of my skid.

I don't think this is a good idea as my skids are pretty used with only 4 trails of use. I though of a plate that covers my drain hole in my skid but if the skid flexes at all it will be putting pressure on the valve.

NO good solutions

Its such a great idea but with a flat TC skid and a engine skid thats tucked up close its not gonna work

I'm open to all ideas let me have them please! I really don't want to lower my skids cause they are low enough already. Or if anyone wants a drain valve for $25 shipped its yours. I paid 29.xx after shipping, thats like getting it for 18 or 19 bucks.
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Old 08-14-2007, 08:38 AM   #34
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OK the $220 solution for my $30 drain valve

Brown Dog motor 2" lift mounts and engine brackets.

This would give me an extra 1" of clearance which would be enough for a valve with out the nipple. Really considering this. I think I will need the new engine brackets because with my 1" BMML, my bracket was really close to the frame mount. I am going to research it further but please provide feed back or opinions.

My big concern is with a 2" MML and my flat TC skid (raise TC 2.5") My trany will be contacting my tub.
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Old 01-08-2008, 04:49 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740
I will try to get some designs up eventually so people could go to a local shop and have them weld up the plate and cut the pieces. Then all you would have to do is drill the holes, and paint. Not sure what a shop would charge but it shouldn't be that much with designs and all they do is cut and weld.

I would be interested in this if you could still do it.
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Old 01-10-2008, 10:32 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastR
I would be interested in this if you could still do it.
I will see if I can get time to do some. Its relatively simple to fab though. You just need a 12"x~34" plate, then get some angle welding on the front at least 4" high. Then get the angle bracing down the sides like in my pics, they don't have to go all the way to the TC skid and if I gave you measurements for their length it might not work for you unless you copied my TC skid exactly.

For the corner cut off in the front, I would make a cardboard template and use that.

The links for mounting to the frame will be different as well. And honestly if you can I would give the skid more room between it and the oil pan so you can use a drain valve. I also have a mark on my oil pan where it flexed up and put a small ding from landing on the skid.

You should have a grinder and a drill if you want to do this. But those are necessary tools for any home/jeep owner in my book.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:44 PM   #37
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Maybe I missed this in the thread, but did you have to drill a hole through the bottom part of the motor mount bracket for the bolt to go through, or did you use an existing hole?
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Old 04-21-2008, 01:09 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safarimike View Post
Maybe I missed this in the thread, but did you have to drill a hole through the bottom part of the motor mount bracket for the bolt to go through, or did you use an existing hole?
Used existing holes.
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Old 04-21-2008, 02:12 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post
Used existing holes.
Thanks, I think I am gonna attempt something similar this weekend.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:39 PM   #40
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This is great, I have all the skills and tools for this mod and have been thinking about it for many weeks. Great work. I will definatly have to give it a go ahead now. Looks Great. I hate the turtle shell hanging from my TJ.
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:45 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywrangler View Post
All I have to say man is Excellent work on that. My ONLY comments that will be negative are for the beer in the back seat on the trail........

I don't take issue with the beer on the trail, ya gotta get it there somehow... but I'm seriously concerned about the potential for said beer falling out of the Jeep. I hope it was properly restrained!
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