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post #1 of 13 Old 09-19-2010, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
zombiesmasher13
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Full Roll Cage

I'm looking to put a full cage on the CJ. I know you can get all the prefab stuff but I have access to the steel and I can weld so I'm gonna be building it myself. Is there a design that is better than others?


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post #2 of 13 Old 09-19-2010, 10:22 PM
wushaw
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The one that saves your life is the best design. Other than that there are so many designs to chose from. Take your time and have fun
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post #3 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
zombiesmasher13
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Yeh. This is definitely something I'm gonna take my time with. I just didn't know if there were tie in points that are stronger than others. I guess just staying attached to the frame is the important thing?
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 08:26 AM
tim-v
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Before you cut the steel make a full size model out of pvc or something like that so you can see what it looks like, ans experiment with different styles
just a thought
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post #5 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 08:31 AM
g4x4xgeoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiesmasher13 View Post
Yeh. This is definitely something I'm gonna take my time with. I just didn't know if there were tie in points that are stronger than others. I guess just staying attached to the frame is the important thing?

Just a few pointers for you:

Main hoop must be of one solid continuous section. No exceptions there.

Triangulate wherever possible

Every section of cage that touches the floor must be tied into the frame.

Prior to welding, the better the joinery, the better the result.

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post #6 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 10:43 AM
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Building A Roll Cage For Your Ford Ranger/Bronco II
I know its not a jeep has info
This has alot of info and pictures on building a cage
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 11:17 AM
Joe Dillard
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I like using the Bend-Tech EZ-3D software to design stuff. Works great!

Bend-Tech EZ-3D
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 12:42 PM
BESRK
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There are lots of nice cages out there. Check out the sticky at the top of the page for some pics of different cages. Also might hit up Pirate for alot of good pics. When you find one you like, copy it.

Personally, I prefer my main bars to run down either side of the rig versus the typical A pillar/B pillar design (think stock cage hoop that runs from side to side). Once you get the main side bars in place, the majority of the remaining tubes can be straight shots.. simple and effective.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #9 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 01:47 PM
Jim1611
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Guys I am going to be looking at making a cage for my CJ too and have been giving some thought to trying to get away with having the front bar in the common location, where you hit your knees on it. What are your opinions on making some kind of pillar that would fit inside the area where the door hinge plates go? I see them for later model jeeps and like the way they get the bar out of the way but are they strong enough in a side roll?
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 07:43 PM
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Jim, I think they'd be suspect. The TJs are setup differently in that area but even then, I'd prefer to run the tube all the way to the floor.

I've never had a problem with my front cage legs being "knee knockers"... and that's on a CJ5 with the small door opening. I'm also not a small fella (6'1".. 285lbs). Granted, I did move my front seats back about 3-4 inches but the small door opening is still there and my cage has never been an issue.

If anything, I might be tempted to bend the lower part of the front cage leg forward so that it runs up in the parking brake area. You could relocate the parking brake with a "hand brake" setup. Even then, I don't think I'd bother.. I'd just do the straight leg about 3/4" away from the dash.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #11 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Jim, I think they'd be suspect. The TJs are setup differently in that area but even then, I'd prefer to run the tube all the way to the floor.

I've never had a problem with my front cage legs being "knee knockers"... and that's on a CJ5 with the small door opening. I'm also not a small fella (6'1".. 285lbs). Granted, I did move my front seats back about 3-4 inches but the small door opening is still there and my cage has never been an issue.

If anything, I might be tempted to bend the lower part of the front cage leg forward so that it runs up in the parking brake area. You could relocate the parking brake with a "hand brake" setup. Even then, I don't think I'd bother.. I'd just do the straight leg about 3/4" away from the dash.
Eddie that confirms what I had doubts about too. Too bad something like this can't be made strong enough to take a hit. I like the concept. Safety is first though. Thanks for the input. Enjoy the day!


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post #12 of 13 Old 09-20-2010, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim-v View Post
Before you cut the steel make a full size model out of pvc or something like that so you can see what it looks like, ans experiment with different styles
just a thought
I just had one built.... Wish my builder would've done this first. I'm 6'4" and the guy brought a runner from the center of b piller to the coners of the a piller. It's about 3 to 4" from my noggin. And I have to live with it.....

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post #13 of 13 Old 09-21-2010, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Eddie that confirms what I had doubts about too. Too bad something like this can't be made strong enough to take a hit. I like the concept. Safety is first though. Thanks for the input. Enjoy the day!
I'm sure you could make it strong enough but the trade-off comes in the amount of work required to do it.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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