Fuel Cell ...make one or buy one and it's location - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 26 Old 08-05-2014, 06:19 AM
jason m
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I used SS steel 16g and 1/8" a-36 steel. The steel tank I coated the inside and as far as I know its still in use after 9 years in use. Its a tank that hold a fluid, Alu is best SS or low carbon steels work just as good. Just the treat the low carbon steel after and it will last.
Take a look at any old Mack saddle tank is a heavy steel tank, now they are Alu for weight but back in the day they used steel.

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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #17 of 26 Old 08-05-2014, 01:57 PM
dirtdudeaz
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Fuel safe is expensive but a great brand; we used them in a few desert cars I helped build

Summit has a bunch of different brands including Jazz that are decently priced as well.

Unless you have good tig welding experience or aluminum welding experience, access to a welder and press brake, I would say let the pros do it. Last thing you want is to have a behind or under the seat tank fail when flipped over or in a crash; or anywhere for that matter. Then you also don't have to worry about all the fittings, valves, liners, baffles, etc...
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post #18 of 26 Old 08-06-2014, 09:07 AM
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I do have MIG/TIG experience with aluminum and access to shop equipment. I have been to Summit Racing and have noticed that the guts are where the cost is on a fuel cell. I'm not really a cheapskate as much as I enjoy the reverse engineering, design and fabrication of the build. If anyone knows of other forums or threads more specific to design pros and cons, let me know. Thanks for your input!
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post #19 of 26 Old 08-06-2014, 02:46 PM
dirtdudeaz
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Essentially you buy a bladder, baffle foam, fill plate, gasket, etc... build a box to hold the bladder snuggly. You will probably find that the bladder is almost as much as a brand new cell assembly, but nonetheless, fabricating things is fun sometimes too!
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post #20 of 26 Old 08-06-2014, 03:11 PM
youngjeepr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdudeaz
Essentially you buy a bladder, baffle foam, fill plate, gasket, etc... build a box to hold the bladder snuggly. You will probably find that the bladder is almost as much as a brand new cell assembly, but nonetheless, fabricating things is fun sometimes too!
Why would you need to run a bladder? I assume you would use one if you didn't trust the welds. But any other reason?

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post #21 of 26 Old 08-06-2014, 03:54 PM
dirtdudeaz
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The main reason I know of (and why most racing organizations require it) is because of crash protection. If you roll, get hit, hit something, etc..., and the container gets crushed; a bladder will deform and bend to the new shape of the can. If you use just a can, you don't get that protection and risk spilling fuel everywhere and on you/passengers/ground/vehicle and hopefully there is no heat source nearby....
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post #22 of 26 Old 08-06-2014, 05:40 PM
youngjeepr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdudeaz
The main reason I know of (and why most racing organizations require it) is because of crash protection. If you roll, get hit, hit something, etc..., and the container gets crushed; a bladder will deform and bend to the new shape of the can. If you use just a can, you don't get that protection and risk spilling fuel everywhere and on you/passengers/ground/vehicle and hopefully there is no heat source nearby....

Makes sense I didn't think about getting in a crash/roll

88 YJ- 4.7l stroker, AW4, SOA, 8.8, hp D30 powertrax no slip,3" front stretch with waggy springs, stock replacement springs in the rear, 35/12.5 r15 goodyear kevlars

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post #23 of 26 Old 08-09-2014, 02:04 PM
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I mig welded both the ss steel one and the steel ones. Check for leaks with air pressure inside the tanks and then just coated the inside of the steel ones. A bladder is nice but not needed, look at 90% of the older cars and trucks ( 80-90's) they were stamped steel 20g. Now they are plastic for better fuel economy.

Racing requires a bladder for obvious reasons keeping spectators safe along with drivers, plus our crash's in the woods or on the street don't see speeds over 100mph were a steel or type off tank being talked about can be ripped apart.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #24 of 26 Old 08-09-2014, 07:42 PM
Jim1611
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I built my own. Used 12 gauge for all the outside panels and 16 gauge for the baffles. I took some detailed pictures along the way and they're posted on my build thread, it's in my signature line. It's allot of work but rewarding.







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post #25 of 26 Old 08-12-2014, 05:37 PM
youngjeepr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611
I built my own. Used 12 gauge for all the outside panels and 16 gauge for the baffles. I took some detailed pictures along the way and they're posted on my build thread, it's in my signature line. It's allot of work but rewarding.
Any idea of what page the tank build is on? Or could you post a picture of your baffle setup?

88 YJ- 4.7l stroker, AW4, SOA, 8.8, hp D30 powertrax no slip,3" front stretch with waggy springs, stock replacement springs in the rear, 35/12.5 r15 goodyear kevlars

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post #26 of 26 Old 08-12-2014, 07:37 PM
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If you want go here http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji.../index218.html. It's scattered towards the end too with other work going on.


Here's the baffles
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