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Unread 10-12-2013, 12:01 PM   #1
Texanav8r
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FrontBumperDesign

Hi guys (and gals),

Thinking about building a bumper now that I have access to a full shop with CNC plasma cutter, TIG, MIG, Stick welding, and a host of other awesomeness. Sketched this up last night in Solidworks and wanted to get feedback from those who have done this before.

I'm a little worried about the weight sitting so far forward. I could eventually move it back a bit and lift the sway bar over the fabricated part, but for design, I drew it out based on the current bumper mounting availability.

It's based around the Warn8000 winch and a roller fairlead, with the fairlead just barely sticking out past the bumper enclosure. Ideally, I'd put the license plate on a piano hinge over the fairlead to keep crap out of it (and stealthify it a bit).

The top center plate over the winch is held in place with a few torx bits (what thief carries torx bits?) And there's a hole (with one of those plastic frame plugs) for a wrench attachment to work the clutch. Controller will be wired through the cab or to a remote location for easy access.

Based on 1/4 plate since we just got a metric butt-ton of it for cheap from a place that couldnt use it once it went under water a few days in the CO floods.

Comments and suggestions welcome.

-Texan









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Unread 10-12-2013, 12:07 PM   #2
Texanav8r
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Since the front frame bumper has that silly round tube on it, has anyone just gone through, cut that part off, and welded on square tubing to make mounting a bumper easier?
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Unread 10-12-2013, 04:14 PM   #3
BESRK
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I'm not a big fan of covering the winch up like that. Looks like you'd have to remove the top plate just to freespool or lock in the clutch?

Also, you could do the main bumper/winch plate from 1/4", and then use something thinner up top to keep the weight reasonable. If that whole thing were done from 1/4", it looks like it would be pretty heavy.
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Unread 10-12-2013, 05:16 PM   #4
Texanav8r
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Ideally, I'd have a hole drilled in the top plate to access the clutch freespool. I actually looked at the weight difference between 3/16 and 1/4, and the whole design would only lose about 28 lbs as it stands now - and for the cost of the material I have available, I'm not sure I can justify losing 28 lbs :/

I guess some of the panels could eventually drop to 1/8" but I'd still do the lower center skid thick and the two lower outers just in case.

I think I'd add recessed lights into the design too - working on that look now
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Unread 10-13-2013, 09:42 AM   #5
schitzangiggles
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How do you allow for cooling? that thing is gonna hold heat in like a fat kid onto birthday cake.

Put some winglets on the ends and you would have a Tie fighter...

Scale it back a bit and look at using UHMPE instead of steel plate, your ball joints and TRE's will thank you.
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Unread 10-18-2013, 05:21 PM   #6
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Here is something similar.



I may still have some of the cad files in SW
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