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post #1 of 9 Old 04-02-2014, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
lar308
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Frame question

I've recently bought a 81 Scrambler, typical Ohio condition, the frame is toast.

So here is the question. Original jeep frames have a raised section above the axles, I assume for the upward movement of the axle. When a lift kit is installed you normally install bump stop extensions, basically doing away with the raised section of the frame. So if I build a frame do I need to have the raised section at all? Any inputs and opinions are appreciated. Ron


"Snowball" 1990 YJ, 4.2, Weber, HEI, 3.5" springs, .5" boom shackles, dana 44's, 5.13's, Detroit locker's, 4340 axle shafts, 1 ton trod ends, Tom Woods SYE & rear shaft, 35" MTR's on V5 cragars, M8274
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-02-2014, 01:18 PM
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lar308 View Post
I've recently bought a 81 Scrambler, typical Ohio condition, the frame is toast.

So here is the question. Original jeep frames have a raised section above the axles, I assume for the upward movement of the axle. When a lift kit is installed you normally install bump stop extensions, basically doing away with the raised section of the frame. So if I build a frame do I need to have the raised section at all? Any inputs and opinions are appreciated. Ron
Hi Ron,

We "backhalved" a YJ once, for the the "kickup" we simply layed one piece of 2"x4" tubing ontop of the other pieces... it would up looking something like this..

___---__

It's a relatively easy to keep everything straight and plumb this way.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #3 of 9 Old 04-02-2014, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
lar308
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Thats another option. I also thought of cutting the angle at 45*, capping the end and moving the next piece up . ___/---\___ Just looking for ideas, by the time a cj7 frame and stretch it I'll have as much time and money in it as building one. Thanks, Ron

"Snowball" 1990 YJ, 4.2, Weber, HEI, 3.5" springs, .5" boom shackles, dana 44's, 5.13's, Detroit locker's, 4340 axle shafts, 1 ton trod ends, Tom Woods SYE & rear shaft, 35" MTR's on V5 cragars, M8274
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-02-2014, 09:09 PM
tjcj
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You don't have to make the whole kick up if your making a new frame. I made a complete frame out of 2" 4" for a Willy's and it looked like this from front to back ----____---- I overlapped the front and back section over the middle section by 10" 45 cut everything capped the ends and added fish plates in side and out. Worked great. Actually got the idea from JP magazine or one of those mags.

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post #5 of 9 Old 04-02-2014, 10:11 PM
nacheswheelin
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Research project ground up cj from jp mag.

Who ever said less is more never owned a jeep.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-02-2014, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nacheswheelin View Post
Research project ground up cj from jp mag.
Yep that's the one.

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post #7 of 9 Old 04-03-2014, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
lar308
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Thanks guys, I'll pull up that article. Ron

"Snowball" 1990 YJ, 4.2, Weber, HEI, 3.5" springs, .5" boom shackles, dana 44's, 5.13's, Detroit locker's, 4340 axle shafts, 1 ton trod ends, Tom Woods SYE & rear shaft, 35" MTR's on V5 cragars, M8274
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-04-2014, 10:44 AM
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This is about halfway through the process.....but you see the idea. Make a template out of the sides, cut them out and weld them together. This doesn't show it, but like "back halving"...a couple "fish mouth" support pieces are welded on each side to reinforce the frame.



I like to build stuff. Want to know what I build, you can google it
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-05-2014, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
lar308
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Thanks for all the suggestions, Now the planning and then the fun begins. Ron

"Snowball" 1990 YJ, 4.2, Weber, HEI, 3.5" springs, .5" boom shackles, dana 44's, 5.13's, Detroit locker's, 4340 axle shafts, 1 ton trod ends, Tom Woods SYE & rear shaft, 35" MTR's on V5 cragars, M8274
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