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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Entry Welder
I'm looking to start to learn to weld, and I'm looking for a cheap entry level welder...I think I wanna start with an Arc welder, but the drawback is that I need a 110v b/c I don't have 220. I bought the Haynes Welding Manual and it's great....I was wondering what poeple thought about this welder for a 110v
says it goes up to 120amps and has a decent duty cycle i guess... seems a little too inexpensive though....any thoughts or suggestions on a different one? thanks
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Solar Yellow '04 TJ Sport, RE 3.5" Standard Kit w/ GEN 2 Discos, 33x12.5R15 Cooper Discoverer STT's on Black Crager D Windows, OME Shocks and Stabilizer, LOD Xtreme Duty Rear, Jeeperman Front w/ Pre-Runner Bar, Viair Constant Duty OBA - Front & Rear Quick Air Discos, Firetruck Air Horn, Galls Siren w/ PA, CARR Rotabar w/ KC Long Range Lights & KC Driving Lights, KC Fogs, Superwinch 9000lb, Viking Synthetic Line, Optima Yellow Top |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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I'd suggest going to a tech school and taking a beginners welders course. That's what I did many years ago, (night school at the vo-tech). The course cost is reasonable and you have someone to critique your technique.
That being said, you're probably better off getting a 110v mig welder, mig is a lot easier to do than arc, 110/120v machines are more plentiful and it's a lot easier to manipulate mig on thin stock than arc/stick welding. To weld decently with stick you'd need at least a 200 amp unit, (that would give you a near 100% duty cycle for 1/8 rod and welding plate steel) they're all 220 volts. Although most homes have 220 volt service, (electric stoves/dryers, etc).
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bluehdmc North NJ 2005 Stone White Rubicon Unlimited White Jeep Club #53 1999 Harley Road King 2006 BMW R1200RT |
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#3 |
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Member
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don't buy that,1st of all its a AC only welder.You need a DC current welder at the very least.look for a basic AC-DC stick welder. look here http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=292&pricetype
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#4 |
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Web Wheeler
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The EBAY unit looks like junk to me. Check and see what it would run you to install a 220V 50 amp line to where you plan to weld. The Lincoln AC/DC 225 and Millermatic Thunderbolt welders are very good. The AC/DC feature costs a little more, but it's worth it. I currently have a Lincoln 140 AMP 110 V MIG and I don't much care for it. It does a great job on thin stuff but I don't trust it on 1/4" and above. I plan on going 220/50 amp soon and getting a Miller or Lincoln stick machine again.
You can teach yourself to weld O-K. I advise a class, but you can read and practice on your own just fine. The internet has a lot of valuable resourses. But, talking with guys who do a lot of welding is just as valuable. Don't try welding something you may need to risk your safety with like suspension parts until you get good at it. Regardless of what welder you end up with get the best quality safety stuff you can afford. Get the auto-dimming helmet. I welded without one for 35 years and now feel stupid for not getting one years ago. The auto dimming hood is the best invention since Astro-Glide. Get good gloves. Get a good pair of clear safety glasses and just leave them on all the time while you are working. Safety is job #1 when you are welding. Get all that flammable stuff away from the area. Only weld in a dry area. Make sure no rugrats are watching you weld as they'll burn the eyes for sure.
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2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited Jeep Club Member #1340 6 Speed, Hardtop Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come! |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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[CENTER][COLOR=White]97 Sport [/COLOR] 4.0l Auto D30/D35 RE 3.5 SF, 1" BL, 1" MML, 285/75/16 (33") MTRs, 16x8 MT Classic Locks, 4.10 gears, Lockrite Front, Warn Front and Rear Bumper w/ Tire Carrier, Warn Diff Skids, Rock-it Man Rockers, Jeeperman Front Hoop, M8000, A to Z winch mount, Hella 500s, H4 Conversion [COLOR="Red"]Former 3.07 Gears Club Member #1[/CENTER][/COLOR] |
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#7 |
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Do it right or not at all
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 54,492
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I moved this to the Fabrication forum since more welders hang out there. Personally, I bought a 110v Hobart 135 MIG welder and learned to use it by practicing on a whole bunch of scrap steel I bought for that purpose. I learned well enough that I'm doing well enough by now to have started doing my own welding on my TJ without embarassing myself... too badly anyway.
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Gone to King of the Hammers, back Sunday! Jerry's Geezer Jeep II Website Getting Savvy... Coolest offroad magazine ever! CRAWL Magazine When you have a choice, buy American.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the posts...
BlueFlame's links led me to a clark 130 amp 110v gasless MIG with a gas option....for a very good price of $268 I'm not going to buy it just yet, but I'm thinking MIG is the way to go, and 110 so I don't need to rewire...I also like that I can weld up to 3/16", (once i learn to use it) what does everyone think http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/WE6523.html
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Solar Yellow '04 TJ Sport, RE 3.5" Standard Kit w/ GEN 2 Discos, 33x12.5R15 Cooper Discoverer STT's on Black Crager D Windows, OME Shocks and Stabilizer, LOD Xtreme Duty Rear, Jeeperman Front w/ Pre-Runner Bar, Viair Constant Duty OBA - Front & Rear Quick Air Discos, Firetruck Air Horn, Galls Siren w/ PA, CARR Rotabar w/ KC Long Range Lights & KC Driving Lights, KC Fogs, Superwinch 9000lb, Viking Synthetic Line, Optima Yellow Top |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Id deffinently say MIG is the way to go. Unless youre gonna be doing really thick stuff, MIG is very versitile, easy to learn on, and cheap.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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welders too small
Most of the 110 welders are great for thin sheet metal up to and including 1/4 inch. The gentleman who said let a certified welder do any frame welding is correct ther is a technic for frame welding to hold torsional stress. Several manufacturers have compact 220 mig units, woiuld be a better choice, just for penetration and burn in. Ok enough on the tech soap box, I'm a certified welder, and been building jeeps for30 years. I just bought my first TJ, a 97,2.5 4" lift,33's,and just ordered the oro sway loc, the thing handles like crap.
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#11 | |
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Do it right or not at all
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 54,492
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Quote:
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Gone to King of the Hammers, back Sunday! Jerry's Geezer Jeep II Website Getting Savvy... Coolest offroad magazine ever! CRAWL Magazine When you have a choice, buy American.
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#12 |
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Web Wheeler
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Ditto what Jerry said. I have a Lincoln 140 amp 110 Volt Mig and I am not real confidant in welding 1/4" stuff. I've done a bunch of 1/4" welding using the flux gasless welds, but I'd not be comfortable welding something that is under a lot of stress. With my old Lincoln 225 A/C-D/C 220 volt stick welder I always felt great confidence in my welds on 1/4" and even 3/8" stuff. I regret not installing a 220 volt 50 amp breaker. It's gonna be a pain as my box is full, but I'm gonna do it one day and get a good old Buzz Box stick welder again. Bob
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2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited Jeep Club Member #1340 6 Speed, Hardtop Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come! |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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well i don't think i'll be welding too thick stuff right off the bat...theres a few things here on the property i live and work on which can benefit from a welder, and so can my jeep in the process....I think for ~270 its worth it to go ahead and get the Clarke 130amp Mig to learn in addition to a class....
it'd be nice to one day be able to make a trailer like they show in the last chaper of the haynes welding book
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Solar Yellow '04 TJ Sport, RE 3.5" Standard Kit w/ GEN 2 Discos, 33x12.5R15 Cooper Discoverer STT's on Black Crager D Windows, OME Shocks and Stabilizer, LOD Xtreme Duty Rear, Jeeperman Front w/ Pre-Runner Bar, Viair Constant Duty OBA - Front & Rear Quick Air Discos, Firetruck Air Horn, Galls Siren w/ PA, CARR Rotabar w/ KC Long Range Lights & KC Driving Lights, KC Fogs, Superwinch 9000lb, Viking Synthetic Line, Optima Yellow Top |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Most of my welding has been either 1/8" or 3/16" and that is it's max. Even then I do a bevel and depending in the weld placemment will make a second pass. That is with a Lincoln 135 too.
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[SIZE="1"][B]98 TJ-bought-not built [url]www.PNWJeep.com[/url] كافر - Infidel[/B][/SIZE] |
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#15 |
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Member
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i bought millers best 110 volt mig welder,couldn't weld 1/4 inch. Even 3/16 was cold.For exhaust and sheet metal it was great.I did a few frame repairs with it on unibody cars and it worked well.I agree you need to go 220 volt mig for a all around machine.
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