[VnutZ]

Almost 18 months ago, I saw a thread here about how a guy built his own overhead console for about $20 rather than paying hundreds for a pre-made model. While I cannot find the link anymore, here is a write-up of how I made my own.

The gist of it all is a metal bar used for shelving and two hose clamps (he used U bars and lock nuts I think). From there, a little customization and wiring will let you put just about anything up there. In my case - a CB radio and a really loud PA system. But with a little extra work, you can put just about anything across your rollbars very sturdily for only a few dollars. Mine has been very stable off-road and does not vibrate the equipment badly at all.

[losfreddy]

pretty nifty. need to keep this in mind when i want to add acessories..

[Breathe_EZ]

Great write up. I've been spending a lot of time in Home Depot lately trying to design my own. Looks like you have some great ideas. How about some top down pics. It's kind of hard to see in the dark. Thanks for the tech.

[98TJSport]

i with Breate EZ lets see some more pics of it.
makes me wanna do it to mount my CB up there

[Masterchief]

That was the MOST professional way of doing a write up I've seen. Clear pictures and diagrams, simple, clean. Nice write up.

[MikeTJ]

Very nice! I've been trying to devise something similar, thanks for the ideas. Quick question, though - does the shelf get in the way of the soft/hard top latches? After looking at your design, I went out and looked at my rig. Seems the latches would hit? And what about the visors, or did you just take them off?

Thanks!
Mike

[VnutZ]

Just for honest reference, I finally found the original link that inspired my own version - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/cb-mounting-pics-108621/

[VnutZ]

Originally Posted by MikeTJ

Very nice! I've been trying to devise something similar, thanks for the ideas. Quick question, though - does the shelf get in the way of the soft/hard top latches? After looking at your design, I went out and looked at my rig. Seems the latches would hit? And what about the visors, or did you just take them off?

Thanks!
Mike

I have not tried it with a soft top, although I have been wondering that myself. The 48" bar only comes halfway across each rollbar and only rises about a quarter inch vertically. As long as the soft top does not touch that, I don't see that it should be a problem. With some strong vises and clamps, perhaps the edges on top of the roll bar could be crimped down to avoid accidental punctures. As for the visors, I have the visors in place and they work fine, the whole bar is about five or six inches from the front (and I've never hit my head on it or the equipment while bouncing off-road).

[neZZr]

Nice write-up, but did you really just tap into the fusebox that way, and then recommend that others do so as well? That is just asking for a fire.



Why not use something a bit more professional, and safer... like a fuse tap. This allows for a better connection that is not likely to fall out or cause a short, and also allows you to easily fuse your new circuit to protect it from overload.

[VnutZ]

Originally Posted by neZZr

Nice write-up, but did you really just tap into the fusebox that way, and then recommend that others do so as well? That is just asking for a fire.

Why not use something a bit more professional, and safer... like a fuse tap. This allows for a better connection that is not likely to fall out or cause a short, and also allows you to easily fuse your new circuit to protect it from overload.

It's funny, I posted that fuse picture before I published the article just to see if there was a better way and there wasn't much response. I even tried taking the fuse box out to see if I could plug my wire into the back - but the wiring was so tight I couldn't rotate the fuse box enough. That fuse tap is EXACTLY what I was looking for, but the car parts places [Autozone, etc] gave me the funny look when I described that, nor was it stocked on their shelves.

I tried nocablezone from your link, but I can't find just that item - can you link to one for sale?

[neZZr]

Originally Posted by VnutZ

It's funny, I posted that fuse picture before I published the article just to see if there was a better way and there wasn't much response. I even tried taking the fuse box out to see if I could plug my wire into the back - but the wiring was so tight I couldn't rotate the fuse box enough. That fuse tap is EXACTLY what I was looking for, but the car parts places [Autozone, etc] gave me the funny look when I described that, nor was it stocked on their shelves.

I tried nocablezone from your link, but I can't find just that item - can you link to one for sale?

I got mine from PepBoys. They're usually called "add a fuse" or "add a circuit" or something like that.

[VnutZ]

Originally Posted by neZZr

Today, I found this item at Napa. It's part number 782-2226, costs approximately $18 and is called an HHH Accessory Mini Add-A-Line. Most of the parts stores do not display it on the shelves, but have them in the back. Just bring the picture with you and the representative will know what you're talking about. My 'technique' has always disturbed me because I knew there had to be a better way! Thanks for the tip.

[neZZr]

It scares me that a parts rep at the parts store would not be able to find it based on a description of what you want it for.

Glad you got it though!

[cody11ca]

i love the idea, it just scares me when the top is off and that is exposed so that everyone can see it there, and there is no way to make sure someone cant just rip it out, like the tuffy secures it

[VnutZ]

Originally Posted by cody11ca

i love the idea, it just scares me when the top is off and that is exposed so that everyone can see it there, and there is no way to make sure someone cant just rip it out, like the tuffy secures it

I changed another element since I did the write-up. The power wires running up the windshield panel now terminate at the rollbar with some $2 connectors from Radio Shack. These parts include: Male Connector and Female Connector. Now, when the top is off and risk is high, I can leave the equipment at home by disconnecting the power lead and unscrewing the hose clamps. Complete removal and installation time is down to about three minutes tops. True, that means I can't bring my "road-rage-stress-relieving-PA-system" with me ... but unfortunately, my top is on most of the time.

I am still looking into attaching a rabid, poop throwing monkey to a leash into my backseat to protect all my stuff. I just can't seem to train him to not attack me. And the poop gets messy.