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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Do you level?
When you're doing serious fab work on your truck ,do you jack stand and level or do you just weld as it sits?
I had originally planned on doing the suspension work first and then doing cage, but if I spend the money I currently have working on the cage, I'll be able to accomplish more since the cage is labor heavy and the suspension is parts heavy My time is cheap Is it OK to do the cage first and should I work off of level?
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Sex is dirty only if it's done right .... Live and Let Live .... Rules are Boring and I Don't Like Them ................................................ MeCasaEsSuCasa ................................. |
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#2 |
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GROUND POUNDER
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I've built two Jeeps on a sloped driveway..
However, when I build my buggy, I think I'm gonna get the main frame rails fairly level by doing them on the garage floor. I'd like to get the main frame straight, square and plumb. Then I'll roll it out side and do the rest in the driveway..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 3.73s, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s.. Lower 2 Guardrail Down Schoolbus Slickrock Tellico Save Crozet More Crozet |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I think it's worth the time especially when fitting uprights. I don't have any level concrete either but I'll spray paint four jackstand marks so I use the same place all the time and layout and mark some shims so I only need to level the sucker once
Then all I need to do is not lose the shims ![]()
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Sex is dirty only if it's done right .... Live and Let Live .... Rules are Boring and I Don't Like Them ................................................ MeCasaEsSuCasa ................................. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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With all the fab work you are planning, why not build some jackstands and incorporate a leveling screw into the top? I tried the shim deal, and it never works very well. I have also bought several sets of 6k jack stands and they keep breaking so I am getting ready to start the build up of some jackstands. Use a 1 1/4 bolt on the top of both so that I can thread it in and out to get things completely level. Use a hitch pin for the rough adjustment and the bolt for fine adjustments. Everything is easier when the base is square and level.
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53 willys wagon with less of rust and no more bugs. Now sporting a 1988 wagoneer frame, amc 360, dana 44's. '80 CJ-5, full width, 3 link front, 1/4 elliptical rear, 38's, and propane. |
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#5 |
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H2 Recovery Team Member
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you guys are doing it the hard way. for working on the jeep, get a digital level, the kind that gives you an angle reading. not all that expensive anymore. then, lay the level across the bumper before starting to work, or whatever other surface you want to be level with, zero the level at that angle and then everything else that reads level will be in the same plane as your zero surface. short of Down's jack stand idea that's the easiest way i've come up with.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231 Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front. 92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231 5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood |
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