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Unread 05-23-2013, 02:24 PM   #1
TXST8tj
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DIY control arms - LH/RH threads ideal?

When making one's own adjustable control arms where both ends are adjustable, is it recommended to run a LH thread at one end and RH thread at the other, or can/should the same thread direction be used per arm?

I believe one of each should be used per arm, but I would like to verify.

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Unread 05-23-2013, 03:13 PM   #2
Kettles
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If you are making both ends adjustable, and you can accomplish the task without undue effort, I would think that doing LH and RH would be the way to go. That would allow a turnbuckle like operation, and being able to adjust it without disconnecting.

If however you are making control arms with a bend in them you lose the ability to adjust without disconnecting one end, so whatever is easier in that case.

Most adjustable control arms I have been around/seen are usually just adjustable on one end.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 04:45 PM   #3
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If you are making them out of square tube, I wouldn't use a lh and rh joint. If you slide them along a rock right, it can pop the jam nuts loose and spin the arm. This is for the lowers only. I'd definitely use a rh and lh for the uppers.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 07:35 AM   #4
TXST8tj
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Making them out of DOM. Have the tube, about to order the inserts and JJs. Just wanted to clarify which option to go with.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 08:02 AM   #5
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I'm assuming the reason for threaded joints at each end is adjustability without having to remove the arm ? If that's the case, you will want LH and RH threads for each arm. Otherwise once set on the rig, when you rotate the arm it's simply threading down one and unthreading down the other....not changing the length.


As mentioned above and just a side note, personally I'd order a threaded JJ and a non threaded (weld on) joint. Strength over ease of adjustment....when it's really not that hard to undo one bolt and turn the JJ a half turn. It's not like a tie rod end that's a pain in the butt to get out. Just my .02 cents.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 01:35 PM   #6
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Not to mention you shouldn't need to be adjusting them other than initially.
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perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
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It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 02:32 PM   #7
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Mine are all RH thread. They are a pain to adjust. Once adjusted I have not touched them. If I was to do it over again I would do A fixed joint on one end and an adjustable rod on the other. Do the Math on the joints weld inserts and nuts.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 02:42 PM   #8
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Yeah, like they said. You don't have to adjust them all the time but having the lh/rh thread is awesome for when you do adjust them.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 08:51 AM   #9
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I am considering just doing a fixed JJ on the frame end, and the adjustable on the axle end. As mentioned, once they are set, the trouble is over.

With that said, would a RH thread be the standard for the adjustable end?
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Unread 06-05-2013, 09:01 AM   #10
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I go RH/RH for lowers since they see a lot of direct contact with rocks, ect. My uppers are RH/LH for easy adjustment.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 09:03 AM   #11
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I just picked up the stuff to do mine. I decided against the fixed joint on one end based solely on the fact that if I ever need to drastically change length, I can just buy new inserts and tube. I won't have to buy new joints, or take the time to cut them off the tube.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 10:26 AM   #12
TXST8tj
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I finally got around to getting stuff ordered for the first set of arms. I ended up changing directions all over the place.

I ditched the DOM tube I have (well, for this project anyway). I ordered some 1.75" OD x .25" wall - 1.25" ID DOM tube. I ordered the appropriate tube inserts from Ruff Stuff for one end. I decided after all to do a single adjustable end with a fixed opposite end. I also decided to go with the Metalcloak Duroflex joint instead of the Currie JJ, so I ordered the fixed end joints.

To spread out the cost a couple weeks, I waited to order the threaded ends. I will get those ordered in a week or two. I will get working on the rest of it in the meantime when the parts come in.



*edit - decided to go with one fixed end for a few reasons....strength, simplicity, and cost were the big ones. I realize that once they are set, I will likely not mess with them again unless I make a suspension change. There is quite a bit of added expense to go with a double adjustable arm.

The fact is that buying them already built would've actually been a little cheaper (just barely), but the DIY route yields me a larger DOM tube, and allowed me to split up the cost a bit and hold off on the $120 worth of joints I still need to buy, on top of the $150 worth of other stuff I already bought.
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