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Unread 10-20-2008, 09:39 PM   #241
teenycar
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I've been thinking of using the stock cable but using a bell crank to change the direction since the winters shifter is the opposite of the stock one. This way I could leave the stock arm alone and just manipulate the length of throw needed by changing the bell crank lengths. It's the most frustrating part of my jeepspeed build.


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Unread 10-21-2008, 02:10 PM   #242
skullver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teenycar View Post
I've been thinking of using the stock cable but using a bell crank to change the direction since the winters shifter is the opposite of the stock one. This way I could leave the stock arm alone and just manipulate the length of throw needed by changing the bell crank lengths. It's the most frustrating part of my jeepspeed build.
I believe the Art carr TH400 shifter is also backwards from stock, it was around 9 months ago when I set it up but I do seem to recall having to flip the shift arm on the trans over to get the right direction(I can't remember stock config as I have nothing to compare it to now), now it shifts from below the arm as opposed to stock which is above the arm and pulling from front(if I remember correctly). I also noticed one jeepspeed had the Art Carr shifter backwards so park was actually the rear most gear.

Bell crank sounds like the smart way to go, I'll be watching your build to see what you come up with!
I'll be happy to take some pics once I get out there and get it apart, of the shifter/arm if you still think it may help you, I didn't really document that portion of the tinkering as I was not extremely happy with the final config even though it shifts fine.
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Unread 10-21-2008, 08:39 PM   #243
Jeepguy1977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skullver View Post
got the battery selector/disconnect mounted up(.095" 4130 plate I had around) and did a little custom upholstery on my center console to get rid of some of the hard edges, turned out ok, probably end up redoing it later on down the road after we get a few races in.



Hmmm looks suspicously like a Blue Seas battery switch.....
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Unread 10-22-2008, 01:56 PM   #244
skullver
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Originally Posted by Jeepguy1977 View Post
Hmmm looks suspicously like a Blue Seas battery switch.....
yep, you'd be surprised how many "boat" parts go into a dez race truck build, the modules are all designed for similar conditions and the boat world has a much bigger market so it is only natural, sealed switches/relays/terminals/connectors/gauges etc.

Not to mention they are wired up very similar, redundancy is your friend!
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Unread 10-23-2008, 07:30 AM   #245
1 ton yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teenycar View Post
I've been thinking of using the stock cable but using a bell crank to change the direction since the winters shifter is the opposite of the stock one. This way I could leave the stock arm alone and just manipulate the length of throw needed by changing the bell crank lengths. It's the most frustrating part of my jeepspeed build.
I just bought a tube chassis that ran a 904 and it's got a built in shifter with a bellcrank setup on it. I've got the cable too. I'll be running a 700R4 and already have an Art-Carr shifter so I won't be using this shifter, is it something you could use?

You can kind of see the shifter and bellcrank setup on the left side of the vertical tube in this pic. If you want better pictures let me know I can get a few.

http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/l...t=P9270148.jpg
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Unread 10-26-2008, 04:34 PM   #246
skullver
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All righty, wife took the kids to a fair today so I snuck over to the shop and started working on a truss for my new dana30 as I decided to keep my "masterpiece" D30 for the day I decided to run coilovers, Took a whole lot of head scratching, mocking up, cutting, fitting, measuring, template making, drawing, and of course a fair amount of cursing before I finally came up with something, it will be plated in heavily and also the part the wraps the pumpkin will be trimmed down and plated over, should only lose about .75" of ground clearance at the lowest point. My thinking on this truss are of course to protect the housing from flexing/bending, but to also try and tie the bottom inner-c's together. Onf of the most important factors for me is bashability( I have seen more than a few d30 trusses fail right at the cast/tube intersection). I have seen a one tube bottom truss that has one bend in a piece of 1.5"x.120 DOM but the loss of ground clearance really turned me off of that idea so I got to working, keep in mind this is only the very beginning, and will change signifigantly, all made from 1.75"x .120 DOM, 1.5"x.120" dom and a bunch of 4130 .125" plate, it will eventually be doubled up along the center portion and smoothed out like a ramp. I made the tolerances close enough to where I may be able to con a neighbor into heli-arc welding all the plates to the cast centersection for added rigidity but it will be built so it should not NEED to be, we'll see what happens, gotta get home now!
Hope you all are having a great weekend!
Chris











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Unread 10-26-2008, 06:29 PM   #247
BESRK
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Any thoughts about using a thick piece of flat stock (say.. 3/4" thick) instead of that piece of tube to cross under the diff? Just wondering about diff clearance.

... or, if keeping the tube, ramping the leading edge with some flat plate? You've already got the two side brackets cut at ramped angles.. you could just bridge that with plate to "ramp" that tube..
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Unread 10-26-2008, 06:53 PM   #248
skullver
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Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Any thoughts about using a thick piece of flat stock (say.. 3/4" thick) instead of that piece of tube to cross under the diff? Just wondering about diff clearance.

... or, if keeping the tube, ramping the leading edge with some flat plate? You've already got the two side brackets cut at ramped angles.. you could just bridge that with plate to "ramp" that tube..
Thanks much for the advice! My first thought was to do your latter suggestion, I tried and tried to figure a way to make it strong along the diff(I am difficult at times), thick plate was an option but just couldn't figure a good way to attach the tubes and make it strong throughout.

Sooooo. after sitting here with my kids and eventually putting them both to sleep with my scribbled drawings and hurried explanations/deductions, I decided to tack the tubes-knuckles-plates, draw a line along the tube on the diff that connects the other knuckle-plate tubes, plasma that tube in half, and then plate over the whole shebang right up to the edge of the diff, and because I have tons of hole saw scraps I am going to make some slotted puzzle pieces along that half tube that tie to the cover plate(via welded slots, I LOVE my bandsaw). The cover plate will also fish over the knuckle-tube junctions and I'm thinking .250" plate at least depending on the final shape to tie it all together...very hard to explain so sorry for the ramblings. So I should have a nice 9/16 of a 1.75" od circle with bulkhead plates for a profile along the dif. and only about .25" loss of clearance I am definitely going to add some corner bracing and internal supports for the box portion also. Lots of work...we'll see

Thanks much for the suggestions, also good to hear others opinions, especially(but not limited to, don't want anybody thinking their idea is stupid and not mentioning it, would like to hear them all) with your expertise in the field!

I have to add, my materials fund is real low right now so I am basically stuck with what I have, looks like I may be cutting the main plate out of my welding table which is .250" hr, luckily I saved every single piece of scrap tube no matter how small or how angry that particular piece of tube made me, the 4130 plate was all left over from a previous project and I do have some full sticks of dom laying around in various sizes, you never know when you may need it.
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Last edited by skullver; 10-26-2008 at 08:03 PM..
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Unread 10-26-2008, 09:24 PM   #249
cgmrdc
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are you planning on doing anything to the topside? i really like the tubes..from the diff to the knuckles... being a jeepspeed under the diff clearance isnt that big of a deal.

what did you do to weld the tube to the knuckle? any special welding techniques? lookin good!
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Unread 10-26-2008, 09:55 PM   #250
skullver
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Originally Posted by cgmrdc View Post
are you planning on doing anything to the topside? i really like the tubes..from the diff to the knuckles... being a jeepspeed under the diff clearance isnt that big of a deal.

what did you do to weld the tube to the knuckle? any special welding techniques? lookin good!
Thanks, no trussing on the topside as that will eat into the bump travel but I am going to plate all the mounts in, and shouldn't be necessary, I should have it pretty close to stock on the ground clearance at least at the diff. As for the inner knuckles, these are forged steel so the only issue is penetration and if you have a big enough machine warpage, the only special technique I use is to heat the knuckle with a torch until a crayon melts upon touch(yes I still use crayons then throw the bead down and let it cool as slow as possible, the last time I made a little jig from upper balljoint to lower balljoint to keep that dimension true when welding the upper c-gussets, and the tube but there was virtually no tension on the jig when I removed it so I may or may not do it this time, or I'll keep searching around for that jig and hope I didn't make something else out of it.

Damn, I'm itching to get back over there and get it going, hopefully I will still be this motivated next time I find time to work on it
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Unread 10-27-2008, 02:10 PM   #251
bikedude189
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man, ****....i think i need new underwear for the next year and a half....i wanna ride...
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Unread 11-07-2008, 09:00 AM   #252
skullver
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I will be sure and let you know when it is done!

Got a bit more done on the dana 30, it rained last weekend so I couldn't really do much fab but was able to find a spot inside and do some more fitment, should turn out ok once I do a bunch more plating and add some more tube to tie the truss into the axle tubes. I am going to completely box in the lower inner-c with some plate, still mocking it all up with cardboard etc.




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Unread 11-07-2008, 06:26 PM   #253
BESRK
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Man that looks good!

I hear ya on saving scraps. I'm a "Packrat" by nature so if it were up to me, I'd save every bit of scrap. My wife won't have it though.. she cleans house about once a month. I do have about 1000lbs of scrap steel tossed into the corner of the shop though..
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Unread 11-08-2008, 06:43 AM   #254
iamdurkee
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who sells that drivers seat?
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Unread 11-08-2008, 04:14 PM   #255
skullver
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Man that looks good!

I hear ya on saving scraps. I'm a "Packrat" by nature so if it were up to me, I'd save every bit of scrap. My wife won't have it though.. she cleans house about once a month. I do have about 1000lbs of scrap steel tossed into the corner of the shop though..
THANKS! got some more done today but the wife borrowed the camera, turning out ok, all done from the scrap pile as of now!

The seats are made by Beard/Redart, they are really comfortable, we have the Ultras:
http://www.redart.com/
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