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The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!The Ruffstuff NOT Universal 4 Link Kit!Flush Mount LED Bumper Lights, CREE

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Unread 05-12-2008, 11:10 PM   #196
john NC
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looks great, AMAZING build



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Unread 05-13-2008, 08:48 AM   #197
Darthteddy
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[QUOTE=skullver;5186556]Oh we have a 4wd front end all right, completely chromolly and heli-arc welded throughout, built by famous fabricator/racer Kurt LeDuc, should be some pics of it earlier in the thread.
edit, here you go:

Ahh....I remember seeing this way back when. So are you going to be running it with the front diff all the time, or just for certain events?
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Unread 05-25-2008, 09:22 AM   #198
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Updates? :-D
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Unread 05-27-2008, 01:39 PM   #199
skullver
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Thanks all. Been really busy with work and family but have found a little time to get some stuff done.

Really in the research phases still/again about electronics on the dash.

A lot of my research seems to favor running no relays on a race only truck and running high amp (50A) triple $sealed$ switches with inline fuses close to the batteries as possible. Some have luck with relays but do a lot of vibration isolating and tricky mounting/covering to prevent shorts etc. Relays just don't like vibration it seems.

I am just not sure I want all that current/thick wire going directly to the dash if I opt against the relays, it would take alot of precautionary mounting to make me feel comfortable with that but really up in the air still. Relays would be the cheaper/easier way to do it but don't want to have to monkey with replacing relays out in the hot dez if I can help it, electrical troubleshooting is not one of my finer points.

any electronics guys have any suggestions/experiences?

anyways here are some random pics of the extensive firewall patching, shocks ready to install, the re-routing of the fuel cell plumbing, and the wiring mess to come(15A switches are set-up for relays right now but the switches could be swapped out for higher current rating if I decide against them).



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Unread 05-28-2008, 11:56 AM   #200
skullver
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doing some front suspension cycling and finalizing the limit strap lengths and lower bumpstop pad height to conform to Jeepspeed 1700 class rule of 10" front travel, we get about 9.75" with 6.5" up travel and 3.25" droop. Here is the front with the trackbar and steering disconnnected, there was virtually no binding in the arms themselves, the binding all happens when you hook up the steering and trackbar, the full Traction kit has really good geometry.


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Unread 05-28-2008, 06:38 PM   #201
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Lookin sweet dude....Almost @ the finishline.
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Unread 05-29-2008, 12:42 AM   #202
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Man this is one badass ride. This would be a good time to still be in the navy and stationed at Point Mugu. I would come help in a heart beat. Im near san fran at home now. Im kinda tired of being at the race track every weekend thats why I got a XJ. We build and race dirt track cars on 1/4 mile. I want to build a offroad racer and I think I would follow your footsteps. Might have to rob a bank first. Damn good job. Keep it up. You can race that in the VORRA series too. Check out there site Vorra.com. They run down there and up here near Sacremto. They run using Corr rules. Might be a good place to shake down the rig. If you make it up here ill help you in a heart beat. Take it easy.
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Unread 06-03-2008, 01:17 PM   #203
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Thanks guys! Getting there. Point Magu is not far from me, I used to boat in and surf there quite a bit, some crazy waves there from submarine canyon channeling in the swell and abrupt bottom changes, some good fishing around there also. I'll make sure and check into VORRA, I am really dreaming of Baja though!

Got some wiring on the dash done, I much prefer metal fabrication to electronics, I have sort of been trying to avoid this part but am running out of things to do. I also have some shock parts coming so watch out for my step by step on how to re-valve and rebuild race shocks, although there is really not much to it. After all the cycling we are now replacing all the wheel bearings and ball joints, which we will do religiously after every race. Also getting the tool bags for the race truck ready along with spares. We will be doing a full race-prep straight from the tool bags carried in the race truck so we can make sure we always have what we need in the truck, aside from spare steering boxes, transmissions, motors, and whatever else we can load up onto the trailer that we may need.

Back to work for now!

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Last edited by skullver; 06-03-2008 at 03:53 PM..
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Unread 06-17-2008, 01:28 PM   #204
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got the shocks all apart, had a HELL of a time getting the caps off of the shock body for the reservoir, too much pipe dope on the 3/4" NPT male fitting upon installation, and really hard to get a bunch of torque out of a spanner wrench. After almost destroying the caps I sent them to Swayaway and they fixed them for free. I did not feel too bad as they destroyed the caps getting them off and replaced them also free, great customer service!

here is how the shaft and piston assembly come out, make sure you let off the 200psi charge of N2 first! This unit has a bronze piston assembly.


This is the rebound shim stack, the compression shim stack is on the other side of the bronze piston. These shims effectively dictate the flow through the piston by flexing and allowing fluid by, the thicker the shims, the less flows through the piston holes slowing shaft speed and adding damping, thicker equals "stiffer", each diameter shim has an effect that depends on shaft speed so you can tune the shocks to react differently depending on the shaft speed, i.e. hitting a rock will cause a much faster shaft speed than gradual bumps, this is why I will double up the two bigger shims, they will all be .020" thick but the biggest two will be double .020". There are also three bleed screws on the piston itself that will also effect how much fluid is diverted through the piston channels, take the bleed screws out and it allows a straight shot through the piston as opposed to the channels that slow it down.


This is the bigger reservoir assembly vs the small original, the reservoir is there to separate the oil in the shock, from the 200psi of nitrogen in the reservoir via a floating piston, the reservoir itself is about 70% nitrogen and the piston only moves a bit over an inch maximum, it is there to help with pressure spikes and to allow the shock fluid to expand as it heats up, which is why I went to a bigger reservoir, to help deal with pressure spikes as the volume of nitrogen is greater.


here is a shot of the inside of the shock body, note the opening for the bypass tubes, there are two compression bypass tubes and one rebound bypass tube. These effectively bypass fluid from going through the piston by a check valve, these are very sensitive and allow for a vast tuning range through the stroke of the shock, 1/4 turn makes a noticeable difference.


And here are the new hose fittings to make the reservoir remote so I can fit it up front, more tomorrow when the pipe sealant cures and I can get them back together.

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Last edited by skullver; 10-15-2008 at 03:04 PM..
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Unread 06-17-2008, 06:41 PM   #205
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Wow....Thats pretty impressive. Those are some serious freakin shocks! Im assuming that thats standard equipment for the type of racing your Jeep will be doing.


Very cool though, thanks for the update.
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Unread 06-22-2008, 10:35 PM   #206
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Dude this is an amazing build up and a fantastic job by you documenting it.
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Unread 06-22-2008, 10:51 PM   #207
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id like to see some flex pics
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Unread 06-23-2008, 12:19 PM   #208
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Thanks guys, glad it is useful to somebody. I will try and get some flex pics when it is back together, but really we only have 10" of travel as limited by the class rules so unlike crawling, we really want as much as possible to be damped compression. Unfortunately a slight miscalculation on my part warrants me to re-do the front shock mounts for the 3rd time, ARGHH. With only 10" of travel we need to make sure and get as much compression stuff as possible so the shock mounts are about 2" to low on the axle side, no way around it other than to redo them. We should have around 60/40 compression/rebound travel ratio when it is finally done. Boy have I learned alot through time consuming mistakes and wasted material. Next build should be much easier. Got the shocks back together and installed, which is when I realized I messed up somehow. If I would have gone with 3" shocks it would have worked out perfect as the 3" x 10" travel shocks have a longer total length.


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Unread 06-23-2008, 05:21 PM   #209
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WOW Just WOW!!!!!!!


Just a little question for you, what kinda ECM are you going to be running in this? does the class allow aftermarket ECMs/ tunning?? I know a guy that might be able to hook you. He tunned the internet famous 1000hp blue turbo silverado. That won the first Dragweek in Hot rod Mag. He builds and tunes his own ECMs. Just a thought? he loves to get involved in this kind of stuff.
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Unread 06-23-2008, 10:06 PM   #210
skullver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenoSport View Post
WOW Just WOW!!!!!!!


Just a little question for you, what kinda ECM are you going to be running in this? does the class allow aftermarket ECMs/ tunning?? I know a guy that might be able to hook you. He tunned the internet famous 1000hp blue turbo silverado. That won the first Dragweek in Hot rod Mag. He builds and tunes his own ECMs. Just a thought? he loves to get involved in this kind of stuff.
unfortunately I have two stock 91 ho ecu's(one spare) from what I am told it is not programmable/flashable like the later ecus. The class does allow for tuning though, has to be clear pump gas 100 octane max, 4.2L max displacement, no aluminum heads but lots of room for head work and tuning, I just can't afford it right now we did do some head work but really more for reliability, would love to hear from your buddy, sounds very intriguing!
Thanks
Chris
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