[MattBillyTayloe]

I'm designing a bumper for my xj an I was wondering If I could put D-ring mount on the bracket i mount the bumper with? Does anyone already have a blueprint or plan for this, I've searched for the past hour and can't find the answer I'm looking for. Thanks for the help guys

[rjbruzan]

Thats how I mounted mine. 1/4 x 4" on the bottom of the unitframe with 1x2x6" with 3/4 hole welded to the bottom. The same place the factory style has its tow hooks. Ive also set my towbar to mount to them.
Ron

[MattBillyTayloe]

Any pictures? Either from when you did it or if you can snap some for me would e appreciated

[rugsucka]

The motivated way
Step 1 - remove stock bumper
Step 2 - Get a piece of paper, a pair of scissors, and a pencil. The paper needs to be 6" high and roughly 20" long (hint hint) cut out a notch for the fender support
Step 3 - Do a rubbing on the PASSENGER side of the frame rail. You should pick up 3 bumper holes, the 3 holes that would be holding the steering box on for the drivers side, and a larger hole at the back.
Step 4 - Transfer rubbing to a piece of metal (see step 2 for size)
Step 5 - Start Drilling holes

The easy way
Buy the from AJ's or Nates 4x4

Somewhere deep in the garage I have a plastic template from when I made my bumper, but I wouldn't know where to start looking.
Mine started as a rubbing also.

[MattBillyTayloe]

Thanks, I will probably do the "motivated way" how hard is it to take off the bumper. I'm sure I could figure it out, if just like a heads up

[rugsucka]

3 bolts per side. Metric. Maybe Torx, I can't remember.

Here's my original plate, made of 1/4" plate 6"x20"

I had a buddy laminate 2 other pieces of 1/4" plat to make a 3/4" thick clevis mount, then the same buddy welded a 5" piece of flat stock between the two, a cheap winch plate that came with my cheap winch flush to the front cross member, and I had a sub frame for a winch bumper.

That's when the hack job reattach of the whole front bumper minus cutouts for the clevis mounts came in. It looked like boiled dog turd, so I won't show you.

I also decided to learn to weld because I was starting to bother my buddy with my jeep addiction.

I made outer 'wings' for the bumper piece by piece out of 1/4", 3/16", and some 1/8" plate and some 2x3 box tube. I used a lot of cut off discs and rods.

Finally I hacked the center section of the original bumper to have a hybrid winch bumper look. I really liked that one for about a year.

Now it's 'finished' and all that other good stuff.

Mostly I want you to see how strong you need to make the mounts.

If you cheap out and only use a few holes you will shred the unibody.

The way I've mounted the bumper is about as strong as it gets with out welding it in place.

Good luck.

[rugsucka]

Alright, I will show you the boiled dog turd, and how it sits now.

I'm also now sitting on 5" and 33's - 2 years ago it was 2" BB and 235's

[MattBillyTayloe]

Originally Posted by rugsucka

Alright, I will show you the boiled dog turd, and how it sits now.

I'm also now sitting on 5" and 33's - 2 years ago it was 2" BB and 235's

Looks a lot better now btw and thanks, I will probably use this to guide my bumper build

[rugsucka]

I only ran that craptacular version for a week. It motivated me pretty strongly fab up the outer parts and run the hybrid center section. Frankly I thought it sucked and I spent all week in the garage at night sorting things out.

I like my current set up a lot now, but am considering selling it to start over. This time I'll cut into the front crossmember and recess the bumper back farther to gain approach angle.

[MattBillyTayloe]

Don't mean to revive this dead *** thread but I'm getting a late start on my bumper. While I'm saving up for my JCR DIY kit I want to pull Thai off this weekend. If I wanted to put drings on it would 1/4" steel be enough as long as I make them go down the frame with the tie in plate?

[rugsucka]

You will not TEAR the 1/4" plate, but you might bend it on a side pull. If you tie in across the front with even a piece of 2x2 and plate up the 1/4" to be 1/2" or 3/4" where the D ring slides thru like in post #6 2nd and 3rd photo you would be fine.

Or

Run up the frame and make a 3-4" plate that mounts across the front of the cross member to help support it. or something that goes under the frame where the sway bar attaches. A hard tug out of mud puts a pile of strain on the frame.

NOTE: If you are making home made recover points and your welding is rookie/amateur quality, then you are putting yourself and those around you at risk.

[Diamond-x]

Heres mine