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Unread 10-03-2010, 06:06 AM   #16
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slafferty View Post
By the way i also have a plasma cutter... and i know all about using it on concrete. Really the main problem i have is marking the pipe evenly, it i had some templates with different anlges i could trace it and cut it with the plasma just fine..
for making cuts like you're talking about I use a bench vice and an angle grinder. you can do it on concrete without a bench, but that bench sure makes things easier and saves your back.

for the plasma, mark the tube using a soapstone (caulk). you can also use a piece of construction paper, or go to a welding supply store and buy the paper wrap. you trace the coping shape to be cut out, then use scissors to cut out the pattern, then wrap it around the steel and use the soapstone to mark it. you can see the soapstone under the hood when welding or cutting.

when i did my roll cage I mocked the pieces with PVC drain pipe. shaped and cut them just like I wanted the steel to look. then patterned off the PVC, and transferred it to the steel as a starting point.

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Unread 10-03-2010, 07:19 AM   #17
BESRK
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The thing with cutting stingers is that the tube is flaring outward at the base.. and you want to lean the stinger forward. So, that makes it a bit tricky to get your lines drawn.

However, this method has worked well for me for hundreds of stingers...

Bend the stinger to size.

Lay a roofing square down each leg of the stinger with the short side of the square at the apex of the stinger. That allows you to quickly measure/mark both legs at the same length. If you need a stinger that's longer than your typical 24" roofing square, just measure equal distances from your marks to keep both legs symmetrical.

Cut stinger legs off square at the length you desire.

Set a jackstand on the table (or concrete floor but I don't like to bend down). Set the apex of the stinger on the jackstand and let the legs sit on the floor. Raise/Lower the jackstand until you get the angle you want. Remember, the table top or floor is the "face" of your bumper.

Once you get the angle you want, take a paint marker or Sharpie, set it on a block of steel or wood (to raise it off the floor about an inch or so) and slide the block around the base of each leg.. with the pen marking your tube.

That mark will ensure both legs hit the face of the bumper nice and flat. It probably takes me all of 3-4 minutes to mark/cut a stinger for mounting using a Port-a-Band. Before the Port-a-Band, I used to cut the tube with a Sawzall and a 9" blade.

If you were only going to cut one size/angle of stinger, you could make some sort of jig for marking the legs. However, the method I just described works with any size, any length, any angle.
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Unread 10-03-2010, 08:26 AM   #18
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thanks everyone
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Unread 10-03-2010, 09:28 AM   #19
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Wow Besrk I like that method a lot, just so easy! I will try that next time I need to cut an angle. I just wish I used that method when I cut my rock rails, would of saved me a lot of time.
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Unread 10-03-2010, 02:11 PM   #20
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Alot of woodworking tricks work with steel. Just like shaping a board that needs to rest up flush against an uneven wall. You hold the board in place, lay a pencil on the wall and use it to scribe a line along the board. Trim along that line and the board fits tight... same principle.
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Unread 10-04-2010, 02:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slafferty View Post
whats the best method for cutting >45degrees?
A Mill.

Set up time to get it right is a pain though. It allow for compound angular cuts and you can make nice tight cut hood hoop to stinger connectors.


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Unread 10-05-2010, 09:18 AM   #22
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Besides a mill the best way would be with a band saw or even a porta-band.

I tried notching and mitre'ing tube with my plasma and I just made a mess of it.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 02:45 PM   #23
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Harbor Freight sell a cheap notcher. Fits to your drill. Trick tools and Woodward Fab sell them too. I am sure the quality is better just by comparing price.
I got one and it works (OK). Right off the bat I had to sim out the vice that holds the pipe so it was centered on the holesaw. Then replaced the junk bolts that adjust the vice with some better grade. Had to make another spacer to be betewwn the holesaw and shaft because when it tightened up some of the threads stuck down into the inside of holesaw and wouldnt allow a cut all the way through.
I think it cost $35-40.00, did a little modifying and it has helped me on wuite a few projects.
Here is one I finished last month
100_0668.jpg   100_0670.jpg   100_0671.jpg   100_0669.jpg  
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