I am building a lid for the trunk of my JK when the top is off.
Obviously i am using a jigsaw with a 36 tooth blade for the curved cuts but the straight lines...
Should i just use a circular saw with a new blade? How many teeth? I only have a pretty new 24 tooth framing blade at the moment, they had a 40 tooth for $10.00 at hope demot...
I've never cut aluminum with a circular saw before.. but it sounds like fun.
If I were going to try it, I'd probably use a pretty fine carbide tooth blade (to avoid tearing the edge) and run the blade shallow.. only coming thru as far as needed to severe the sheet. I'd clamp the plate to a solid work bench to keep both hands on the saw in case of kickback. I'd probably also clamp a 2x4 in place as a straightedge to run the saw against for a nice straight cut.
Should be able to clean the edge up with a flap disk after cutting..
I've never cut aluminum with a circular saw before.. but it sounds like fun.
If I were going to try it, I'd probably use a pretty fine carbide tooth blade (to avoid tearing the edge) and run the blade shallow.. only coming thru as far as needed to severe the sheet. I'd clamp the plate to a solid work bench to keep both hands on the saw in case of kickback. I'd probably also clamp a 2x4 in place as a straightedge to run the saw against for a nice straight cut.
Should be able to clean the edge up with a flap disk after cutting..
Install the skill saw blade backwards. Ive done this alot and it works great. Not sure the tooth count but its the one I used on wood and it got dull for that.
Install the skill saw blade backwards. Ive done this alot and it works great. Not sure the tooth count but its the one I used on wood and it got dull for that.
Flip the sheet face-down so you're working with a flat surface. Clamp a straightedge and use it as a guide with a jigsaw. DO NOT use an abrasive blade, it will clog and be an annoyance.
You can buy Alumimun cutting Carbide tipped blades for a circular saw at most home stores now..i have a gotten a few from my local Lowes in Statesboro,Ga...maybe they don't all carry it in stock?..dunno
Jason is right..just turn a regular carbide tipped circular saw blade backwards and it cuts it no problem,but make sure you'r wearing a face gaurd and safety glasses and long sleeves..the aluminum chips fly everywhere.
Regular carbon abrasive blades in a chop saw will last maybe a few seconds before it clogs and won't cut worth a darn at all....grinder wheel/cutting blades are the same way.
Oh yea..one more thing..EARPLUGS..you are about to make more noise than a 747 flying through the shop..lol
If you use a circular saw and a fence you will go off course if you go too fast. The blade will ever so slightly go off course and eventually you'll be off your line. Trust me on this one - go slow and pay attention!
Personally I would use a 4.5" angle grinder. I can cut a much straighter line with this than I can with a circular saw.
If you use a circular saw and a fence you will go off course if you go too fast. The blade will ever so slightly go off course and eventually you'll be off your line. Trust me on this one - go slow and pay attention!
Personally I would use a 4.5" angle grinder. I can cut a much straighter line with this than I can with a circular saw.
i cut this stuff everyday almost...best thing is find a shop to shear it cause whenever you cut this stuff it likes to melt kinda and you'll end up with knarl marks verywhere when your trying to clean up the edges...jmo
Out of curiousity, why does flipping the blade backwards work?
I cut aluminum channel with my chopsaw all the time, but obviously this is not that same.[/QUOTE]
A standard woodcutting blade has too much rake on the teeth, making for a dangerous and aggressive cut. Having the blade backwards, prevents that, keeping kick-back to a minimum.
A non-ferrous metal cutting blade has very little rake on the carbide teeth, which also reduces that DANGEROUS kick-back.
by running it backwards it doesnt plug up and it doesnt kick back as much i have used one at work a lot of times replacing floors in refrigerated semi trailers very loud but works just fine
At the sheet metal shop I worked in we used a hand held jigsaw. I use the jigsaw at home on aluminum and it works great. Leave a regular "wood" blade in and have at it.
Cut the 3 main pieces of the plate this morning. Came out dead straight. Used a circular saw with a wood framing blade 24 tooth, no problems. I did not turn it backwards or anything i just set the depth of the blade to 1/4" so there was nothing to even allow binding.
Jigsaw is up next... Cringing about messing up this part. As long as i get the main center piece perfect, im on track.
Believe it or not laying down tape over the line you are going to cut makes the cut cleaner, I don't know why but it does. I just lay down tape re-draw my cut line and have at it. I prefer to use a table saw with the blade in the correct way.
Very happy with my progress and how great it came out as far as the cuts. I was really worried i would screw up the big mid section and be out $100.
Cutting curves that dramatic with a jigsaw - PITA. Really likes to bind up but i got through it. Also... dangerous edges had to file those down as soon as i got home to a file.
I am currently trying to figure out how to, or find a place to put a bend in the front and back of the midsection piece for both strength and to tie into the tailgate door. One place wanted $75... for 5 minutes of their time...
Nice work. Makes me appreciate my plasma cutter that much more, that and the fact we have a water jet cutter at work.
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