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Unread 10-16-2012, 01:11 PM   #31
BESRK
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It's pretty simple actually..

The water table supports the material to be cut. The plasma cutter's ground cable hooks to the water table.. and the torch cuts the material like normal.

All the smoke/dust is shot down into the water and about 90% of it stays there. Really helps keep smoke/dust down.

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Unread 10-16-2012, 01:14 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
It's pretty simple actually..

The water table supports the material to be cut. The plasma cutter's ground cable hooks to the water table.. and the torch cuts the material like normal.

All the smoke/dust is shot down into the water and about 90% of it stays there. Really helps keep smoke/dust down.
Yup with out the water table I can fill my 2500 sqft shop with smoke in 10 minutes, with the water table I can be cutting for hours with just the slightest haze in the air.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 01:59 PM   #33
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Ok, well that sells me then. How close to the water is the material? Any tips/tricks/etc on design? Looks like this will be my next major machine upgrade. After 9 years of use, everything in my shop has a nice black layer on it.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 02:01 PM   #34
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Ok, well that sells me then. How close to the water is the material? Any tips/tricks/etc on design? Looks like this will be my next major machine upgrade. After 9 years of use, everything in my shop has a nice black layer on it.
I have had my water about 1/4" below the material at times and up to 1" below it.
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Unread 10-17-2012, 05:45 AM   #35
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Yeah.. I fill mine up to about 1/4" below the plate.. and refill when it gets about an inch from it... probably add water about every 2 weeks (4'x8' table).

My table holds about 100 gallons of water. I throw in a couple handfuls of Sodium Nitrite and a few squirts of Phasan 20 to keep corrosion and algea at bay. With the Sodium Nitrite I get zero rust below the water line...
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Unread 10-26-2012, 10:15 PM   #36
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Like everyone else said the water table is the bomb! My first table was a down draft system. It was amazing the difference that the fan on or off had. Fan off and everything in the shop was coated with plasma dust.

I saw a machine with a water table and was impressed by how well it controlled the dust and smoke.

That's why I chose to build a water table for this one. The only real draw back is the possibility of rust from the water but that is easily taken care of by using a chemical in the water to prevent it. You also get the added benefit of the water providing cooling which helps reduce the heat affected zone and warp-age.
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Unread 10-26-2012, 10:40 PM   #37
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Its been a bit since I have posted on the build. I was in a standstill waiting for the pan and other parts to come back from Powder Coating. There Back! I can see the light at the end of this build.

I think I only have a couple more posts in this build!

So I got everything back from Powder coating. I installed all of the components in my computer cart, set up the sump drums and hooked everything back up to the table. I had the pan powder coated. Little expensive but looks great.
when I had the pan powder coated I had them tape off the groves in the center of the table that holds the slats. The center support is my grounding back bone. This is where I have my grounding connection from the plasma machine and my earth ground hooked up to.

I also painted the slats, Ya I know they are a consumable and are going to get torn up and its not necessary ect. So before you kill me in the comments over it I know. It was mainly for looks. I did a couple of things to make sure there were not going to be any problems. I did not paint the top edge, bottom edge, ends, or a small section in the center where it contacts the grounding ridge. I checked every slat and made sure I had the lowest possible resistance, and continuity. Not that I will need it but I installed an secondary ground lead that attaches to the primary ground and is a 10 ft cable with a clamp that I can connect directly to the work piece.

I got everything in place checked level, checked square for the table and squared the torch head. I was amazed that I did not have to adjust the torch head it was perfectly square on all four sides. Precision plasma did a good job on the torch mount.

I powered everything up and started running the torch around the table. Everything worked great. All of the home and limit switches worked just as they should. That is where I stopped. I did not fire the torch or cut anything. I have a few more things that I want to configure and some settings to tweak. Heading off to the SEMA show next week so it will have to wait a bit. It does look good though.

I could not fit all the pictures here but there are lots and more info on the build website at: http://www.cncplasmabuild.com
img_1695.jpg   img_1735.jpg   p1014443.jpg   img_1719.jpg   img_1732.jpg  

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Unread 10-27-2012, 05:24 AM   #38
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Really nice looking table!

Did you paint the slats?
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Unread 10-27-2012, 03:25 PM   #39
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Thanks! Ya I painted the slats, don't beat me up too bad. It as $9 quart of blue. The slats that I got from my metal supplier were super super rusty. I did not want to introduce all of that rust and junk into my nice new table. So I sprayed a quick coat of blue rust block over the top. Dont plan to do it again but it made the table look nice for the finish of the build.
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Unread 10-27-2012, 04:01 PM   #40
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I take it you're going to clamp your ground directly to the material?

Normally, I just attach my ground directly to my water table. I've never had issues with a bad ground.

If you do a lot of cutting, it won't take long for those slats to look like a coral reef.. Mine are 3" tall and are filled to the top with crud in some places. Almost time for a cleanout. Last time my son cleaned out our table (4x8), he just about filled a 55gal drum with dross/drops. He turned it in for scrap and still got over $100 for the stuff. Amazing what they'll accept for recycle..
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Unread 10-27-2012, 04:46 PM   #41
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When I painted the slats I made sure not to do the edges. So I have full continuity between my table ground and the material when it sets on the slats.

I was actually thinking ahead on that one. I have an additional ground I can hook to the material and for some odd and specialty pieces I plan on cutting should it be necessary.

Ya I used to just throw out my metal waste thinking it was not something that the recycle center would take but now I make a trip every couple of months and cash in.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 01:21 PM   #42
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IF you cut mostly steel (magnetic), you can use a 200amp magswitch. They work good and you don't have to find an edge. Only trouble I hd at first was letting it sit at the bottom of the tray and it getting hard to turn. a couple drops of oil and it has not happened since, to be fair I allways check at the end of the day to make sure it did not fall into the tray and I usually drain over night to avoid the evaportion loss.

Our plaz torch is down with some non-consumable damage. I am waiting on a "torch head repair" kit that has about 20 different parts in it but what happened was a ceramic or G-10 insulater ring cracked and caused some random arc wander, frustrating. I also have a new 100amp Duramax torch on the way! My LWS put a short one in my hand and said to give it a try, I was impressed. It really was worlds ahead of our T-100M torch. So, back to oxy/fuel for a day or two, not as much fun as plasma.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 11:07 PM   #43
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Any idea what caused it or how to prevent it?
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Unread 11-01-2012, 06:38 AM   #44
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Hmmmmm.. interesting. What symptoms were associated with the "arc wander"? I've had an intermittent "green arc" (like when the electrode shnozzles out) with new consumables from time to time. It ruins the nozzle instantly. I've been wondering if maybe I had an internal torch problem (PM1250 M80 torch). Might be worth it for me to tear my torch apart and check it out. Where did you pick up the repair kit?

Sorry to hijack..
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Unread 11-01-2012, 09:43 AM   #45
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RescueWeasel, I am not 100% sure what happened but suspect it was from over tightening the retainer. The reason for that was the switch that depresses when everything is properly seated was not tripping and "over tightening" was how we would stop the error light from turning on and shutting down the torch. We have always had a magnetic breakaway of some sort so it was not crashing that caused it. Also, inside the head were the plunger is there is a brass rod that fits up in the main current carrying wire and it was arced out, it may have had something to do with it. I understand the new Duramax torches are free of this problem because the plunger is mounted on the electrode. You are gonna love that torch/machine combo! Have you updated to the new THC board and the new Mach3 update? We use we-cim to nest due to my already knowing how to use it when I retro-ed to the PlazPak system to get away from the DynaTorch system. The PlazPak is an animal, it runs with very few problems. Just little things that do not cost money!

BESRK, The wander was really annoying! What would happen is, all the cuts would lean in one direction, for a while. I would rotate to try and true it up and shim out the bottom of the torch mount but that would only work for a short time. It got worse as time went on. First time I shimmed the mount, I just shrugged my shoulders because I could not come up with an explanation and went to work. At one point I found what looked like a o-ring shred plugging up the exhaust ports. That was when the problem became unmanageable. I think it was part of a seal between the ceramic insulator and the brass head. Once o-ring blew out, the wander would change every couple of pierces. I purchased the part from my LWS, I found the part number by going to the Hypertherm site and downloading the PM1650 "service" manual. I was dreading it because there were so many parts I needed, but Hypertherm has thought it all out and offered the parts as a kit, that I do not have to assemble! I had to wear my 1.50 reading glasses to see some of the very small snap-rings.

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