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Unread 09-08-2012, 01:34 PM   #16
rescueweasel
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Thanks webdog glad to hear it works. That makes me feel better about going through with using the drum idea.

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Oh and I use a similar tank and put upwards of 15-20psi in it at times it has worked great and no caps popping out. It fills my 55 gallon table in about 30 seconds.


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Unread 09-08-2012, 04:48 PM   #17
BESRK
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I vote for a large monitor. It'll help when drawing..

You know.. in the 4yrs that I've had my table, I've never drained/filled the tray except during a cleanout (every 4-6 months or so). Even then, I just drain the dingy water onto the ground and refill with fresh water. I toss in a couple handfuls of sodium nitrite (corrosion preventative) and a few squirts of Phasan 20 (anti-algea) and it's good to go.
While it does evaporate a bit, I only have to add water about every 2 weeks or so..
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Unread 09-08-2012, 07:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
I vote for a large monitor. It'll help when drawing..

You know.. in the 4yrs that I've had my table, I've never drained/filled the tray except during a cleanout (every 4-6 months or so). Even then, I just drain the dingy water onto the ground and refill with fresh water. I toss in a couple handfuls of sodium nitrite (corrosion preventative) and a few squirts of Phasan 20 (anti-algea) and it's good to go.
While it does evaporate a bit, I only have to add water about every 2 weeks or so..
X2 on the larger monitor, I have a Toshiba netbook with a 10" for "field work" but I much prefer the 24" monitor in the office... Ok well maybe I prefer it because the office has a AC.
I really want to get a touch panel for the CNC table, after all mach3 is designed for touch. Right?

Not sure on the temps out by you Besrk, but even when I drain it nightly it still seems to lose about 1/2 - 1" every few weeks.

the other advantage I see of draining it is is kinda filters it and when you want to recover the small parts you can see what you are grabbing for.
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Unread 09-09-2012, 05:58 AM   #19
BESRK
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Temps are 85-95 all Summer. My table drops about the same. I just shove a hose in it and fill it periodically. I'd almost be afraid to see what my table looks like without water in it. I've got 3" tall slats and they are just about filled to the top (with dross) at the moment..
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Unread 09-09-2012, 09:46 AM   #20
rescueweasel
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With just adding water all the time do you have a lot of rust or are you adding something to keep the metal from rusting?

My current table is a down draft and this will be my first with water. I like being able to cut a few pieces out of a sheet and then put the sheet back in the rack and next time I pull it out still no rust.

Not sure if I will be that lucky with a water table. I'm going to be trying this additive called GreenCut and hope that takes care of rust and works like they say.
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Unread 09-09-2012, 03:45 PM   #21
BESRK
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I toss a handful of Sodium Nitrite in the water every few months. Almost zero rust. Most sheets are on the table less than a day.. although I have had sheets sit there for 3-4 days on occasion.. no problems with corrosion.

My slats have been in the water for almost 2yrs with almost zero rust. About the only rust I see occasionally, is immediately above the water line.. must be where water "wicks" up the slat and evaporates or something..
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Unread 09-12-2012, 07:21 PM   #22
webdog
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Well I just had a fun two days...

Yesterday I was topping up the table and the hose went shooting out and soaked the turned on computer, after taking it apart and using compressed air it turned back on. I sooo lucked out on that one!
Then today the plasma retaining cup threads break out, so finally find a dealer that is willing to sell the part out of another PM45 unit and order some extras, I also put the HT air filter on it and gave the internal filter a nice cleaning a mere $300 later I am back up and running.
So keep up with your maintenance, it is no fun having a machine down for two days due to stupid little things.

I use the same mixture on my table and it works great.

Oh and today I tried a Acid bath for parts cleaning, it is the best way to do it.
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Unread 09-24-2012, 04:28 PM   #23
rescueweasel
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Sounds like you lucked out. That could have been much worse. I do worry a little about this water table. While I dont expect any problems just the thought of that much water sitting over all my expensive electronics make me a little nervous.
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Unread 09-24-2012, 04:29 PM   #24
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I took all the advice that I got and put an 8 foot 5/8 Copper Grounding rod in just outside of the wall where the Plasma Machine Sits. It was not fun you would have though I was putting the rod through pure concrete.

I ran individual grounding cables using 4 Gauge Copper stranded wire from the table work lead / slats, the gantry, the table, the computer, and plasma cutter. I kept the ground cables as short as possible. Having not used a ground at all on the last plasma system and not having problems I don't expect to have any problems on this one with all of the grounds.

I added a few items to my computer cart including a back panel and bar to use for mounting an running cable and a support bar to mount the Dragon Cut system box on.

In the photos the Green cable are the grounding runs.
img_1651.jpg   img_1575.jpg  
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Unread 10-02-2012, 09:25 PM   #25
rescueweasel
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I finished my table sump and drain system. I have been worried that this would work during the entire build. I had people tell me it wont, but I'm happy to report that it does work and it was fairly inexpensive to build.

Most has been documented in my earlier posts. The only thing that I would change at this point is to use larger diameter pipe and tubing. The table takes about 10-15 minutes to fill or drain. Not what you would consider fast, but I really did not need fast. By the time I get ready to cut and get everything set up its an easy 10 minutes. I don't plan on draining or filling on a daily basis so I think it will be fine.

One of the other things I did that is both good and bad is that I welded the drain bung on the top side of the bottom of the pan. This caused it to sit 3/16 above the bottom of the pan. The intention was to help limit the amount of crud that drains back into the sump system. I think it will help cut down on debris flowing back into the sump. But is does not allow the system to drain completely. It leaves about 8 gallons in the pan. Which is not bad and if I was going to clean it out that would be coming out with a shop vac anyway.

I found that it only took about 5 psi to create some great fountains during the fill. I did not have a pressure gauge on the system the first time I tried it. but added one to keep an eye on the pressure in the drums. I installed shut offs in several places in the system to allow for maintenance and to deal with a problem should it come up.

I let everything set under pressure and full of water over night to check for leaks and problems. It passed so everything has been sent out to powder coat.

Cant wait almost time to start cutting.
img_1587.jpg   img_1589.jpg   img_1654.jpg   img_1595.jpg  
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Unread 10-05-2012, 07:36 AM   #26
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I like the way you're filling the tank. I worked in a shop years ago and one of the machines we had used air pressure to fill the tank with dialelectric fluid, it was an EDM machine, it worked very well. One the drains, I have a lathe in my shop that has a drain in the chip tray that has a screen over the hole. It works good.

Great job on the table!
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Unread 10-13-2012, 12:59 AM   #27
WSS
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Nice build! I hear that Ron's tables are well built and thought out. I have a PlazPak4+ servo system from CandCnc and it is really smooth. Our gantry is almost 8' wide and carries a lot of gear and this system blows our previous servo system away. Speeds from 2ipm to 150ipm it cuts smooth with no chatter or shaking. I use the sodium nitrite and physan 20 mix along with some blue food coloring and I have rust if I let the sheet sit on the table while the water is dropped (for oxy cutting). If I take it off and blow it lightly under neath before stacking it, usually no rust. I just cleaned out 1800lbs of drops from the table and found some pieces from the first job we did from the last clean six months ago and it looked like a piece of fresh cold roll right off the rack. Keep us posted.

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Unread 10-13-2012, 05:31 PM   #28
rescueweasel
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I cant wait to try out the green cut product as soon as everything comes back from powder coat. If it does not I'm going the home brew route.
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Unread 10-13-2012, 05:34 PM   #29
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Still waiting for everything to come back from the Powder Coater its taking much longer than expected so I took the time to upgrade my air delivery system. I have a 4.5 hp compressor with two 80 gallon tanks. From there is runs through a hose and into a 25 foot coil in a tube I can fill with ice to chill the tube and the air during long run times and hot humid weather.

It then goes into the primary oil and water separator. Then into the first 3405-60 Coalescing air filter. It then runs into the shop. In the shop it goes through a second water separator and through a regulator and into the second 3405-60 Coalescing air filter. From there its off to the tools and the plasma unit.

This should provide me with all of the clean dry air that I will ever need. Maybe in the future I will invest in an air dryer but for now this is an inexpensive and effective option for me now.
img_1676.jpg   img_1681.jpg   img_1688.jpg  
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Unread 10-15-2012, 08:23 PM   #30
aggiejon
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curious guys on how to set up the water table, and the benefit of it. I have a PracticalCNC and have run it steady since Oct 2003. I am curious how the thing works, set ups, and how the whole thing doesn't short out or kill someone with the slats, and by default, material sitting in water? Maybe I'm off on how it all works. But am interested in learning more. I may need to build a water table for mine. Please school me! PS - pm or feel free to fire up another thread so as not to hijack this one. Thanks.
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