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Unread 06-21-2010, 12:21 AM   #16
Sportinwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
Click Free
FYI, in the future paste the "img" tags rather than the "url" tags.
Got it... Thanks a bunch..

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Unread 06-21-2010, 12:36 AM   #17
mcneil
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This does not look like a good idea to me. I wouldn't bet on that bracket remaining attached to the knuckle very long.
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Unread 06-21-2010, 12:50 AM   #18
Sportinwood
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What do you think I could do different???
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Unread 06-21-2010, 08:51 AM   #19
shu2kill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportinwood View Post
Here check this out I think this is all you need to but you may have to have your knuckle machined.. Double check before you buy it because I'm not sure. Make sure you read the add on E-Bay too.

"We offer through holes up to 3/4" for free, tapering for your TREs' available for $7.50 per taper, we offer Scout II, Ford, Dodge, F.S. Jeep and GM tapers. We do not offer the small Jeep CJ, YJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, or WJ tapers."

If you have the small taper TRE's you would have to buy a reamer..

If you want a true high steer you need a differant kit that comes with plates for both knuckles but they are not much more I think around $100 or so on E-Bay..

CNC machined Dana 44 RH high clearance steering arm: eBay Motors (item 380243281921 end time Jul-15-10 21:56:21 PDT)
unfortunately i dont have flat knuckles... if i did, i believe i would just need to drill and taper to put the bracket you mention...

i saw the pics of your bracket... no offense, but i think its weak and wont hold for very long... theres a local guy who makes high steer brackets for D30 and D44s... he sells them for like $550 installed.. he uses someting like your bracket as a frame, but reinforces with a thick plate under it... where you have an empty space between the bracket and the arm, he has a metal plate... plus, he bolts it to the knuckle AND welds it... im not sure the 2 bolts holding your bracket in place would be strong enough, since there seems to bit a lot of leverage pulling on them....
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Unread 06-21-2010, 09:15 AM   #20
shu2kill
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this is not the actual bracket i mentioned, but it gives the idea of what im trying to explain here... of course its just tack welded in the pic....



now this one is bolted and welded...





i dont really know which one works best, but i would say both look stronger than your design... even the brackets used with flat knucles have 3 bolts, yours has only 1 on each end....
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Unread 06-21-2010, 01:14 PM   #21
fratis
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there are a couple companies making brackets like this, why are you trying to reinvent it? i would not drive on that. you have two bolts holding that huge lever to the knuckle, one of which is tiny. this is a candidate for the scary steering page.
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Unread 06-21-2010, 01:37 PM   #22
dodger889
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Sorry guy you have nothing but the two bolts holding that on. I going to play the what if here one bolt breaks then what? On the safety side that is scary to me .
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Unread 06-21-2010, 03:12 PM   #23
Junkman
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Looks good my only concern would be if there are any side loads on the bolt holding the adapter to the knuckle, the bolt might bend. I could be wrong and Im sure once you get it on the trails youll find out. Looks really nice great craftsmanship. Thats why I love this site guys always doing interesting things.
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Unread 06-21-2010, 05:14 PM   #24
Sportinwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fratis View Post
there are a couple companies making brackets like this, why are you trying to reinvent it? i would not drive on that. you have two bolts holding that huge lever to the knuckle, one of which is tiny. this is a candidate for the scary steering page.
I have found some aftermarket brackets out there but to me they seem to greatly weaken the stock knuckle by drilling and taping too many holes in the thin parts of the arm. I think this is a lot stronger from that view point it should actually be reinforcing the stock arm. I do have one small bolt 3/8”-16 grade 8 on there but how much torque is really being applied to it that close to the pivot?? The bolt that is taking the brunt of the force is a 5/8-11 grade 8 that should hold up long after TRE’s break.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger889 View Post
Sorry guy you have nothing but the two bolts holding that on. I going to play the what if here one bolt breaks then what? On the safety side that is scary to me.
I can see the concern with the sideways force and the what if one bolt breaks. I thought about putting a plate on the side and bolting through the gusseted part of the knuckle arm but would that weaken the stock arm??? There is not a lot of meat on there to begin with how much do I really want to remove??



All Ideas for improvement appreciated… Keep them commin!!!
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Unread 06-21-2010, 05:33 PM   #25
Sportinwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu2kill View Post
unfortunately i dont have flat knuckles... if i did, i believe i would just need to drill and taper to put the bracket you mention...

i saw the pics of your bracket... no offense, but i think its weak and wont hold for very long... theres a local guy who makes high steer brackets for D30 and D44s... he sells them for like $550 installed.. he uses someting like your bracket as a frame, but reinforces with a thick plate under it... where you have an empty space between the bracket and the arm, he has a metal plate... plus, he bolts it to the knuckle AND welds it... im not sure the 2 bolts holding your bracket in place would be strong enough, since there seems to bit a lot of leverage pulling on them....
This is the reason for building my own bracket I have a mill and a lathe so I am trying to put them to good use. I agree there is a lot of leverage pushing and pulling on this bracket and am looking for ways to improve it. “no offense, but i think its weak and wont hold for very long...” None taken thanks for the reply..
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Unread 06-21-2010, 06:53 PM   #26
shu2kill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportinwood View Post
This is the reason for building my own bracket I have a mill and a lathe so I am trying to put them to good use. I agree there is a lot of leverage pushing and pulling on this bracket and am looking for ways to improve it. “no offense, but i think its weak and wont hold for very long...” None taken thanks for the reply..
i agree, if you have the tools and the know-how, its a great satisfaction to do things yourself... so, maybe you could reinforce your bracket using the pics i posted to get ideas?? can you weld cast??
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Unread 06-21-2010, 08:09 PM   #27
Sportinwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu2kill View Post
i agree, if you have the tools and the know-how, its a great satisfaction to do things yourself... so, maybe you could reinforce your bracket using the pics i posted to get ideas?? can you weld cast??
No I dont have a welder but I think I can still reinforce it with some bolt on additions. Thanks for the pics they are close to my original idea but I didnt want to drill and tap a bunch of holes in the arm thats just asking for trouble if you ask me...
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Unread 06-22-2010, 10:03 AM   #28
shu2kill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportinwood View Post
No I dont have a welder but I think I can still reinforce it with some bolt on additions. Thanks for the pics they are close to my original idea but I didnt want to drill and tap a bunch of holes in the arm thats just asking for trouble if you ask me...
maybe drilling a lot of holes would be harmful to the arm, but i think you need some reinforcement.... and welding cast is not easy, i wouldnt risk doing it, even though i welded my bumpers and things like that, i wouldnt weld on cast... but i think if you can cut the piece to fit, and have it welded at a shop where they know what they are doing, it would be best.... JMT
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Unread 06-22-2010, 10:31 AM   #29
mcneil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportinwood View Post
No I dont have a welder but I think I can still reinforce it with some bolt on additions. Thanks for the pics they are close to my original idea but I didnt want to drill and tap a bunch of holes in the arm thats just asking for trouble if you ask me...
The $50 solution is pull knuckle and take it to a pro welder to do it up right.

The 5/8 bolt will most likely loosen up over time. Sure, you used grade 8 on the bolt, but the rest of the joint is just as highly loaded and is only what, mild steel?
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Unread 06-22-2010, 08:36 PM   #30
BESRK
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I couldn't see the pics on my gov't computer today so I had to wait to get home to take a peek.

Gotta agree with those that don't think it's going to stand up to the abuse. Parallel park next to a curb and have someone turn the wheel into the curb hard to see how the bracket takes it. I'm thinking the mounting bolts are gonna let go/loosen after a few lock-to-lock turns of the steering wheel.

I like the part of your bracket that runs down and catches the stock steering arm hole. I'd just look at making more attachment points on the rear portion of your bracket.
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