can a 110v handle this? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
ksheffer08
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can a 110v handle this?

let me start by saying I have 0 welding experience...

Im putting new leaf spring brackets on to outboard my front springs, and eliminate the shackle reversal from the PO. they are 1/4" A50 steel brackets from ruff stuff.

A buddy of mine offered to weld them up for me, he has a Hobart 110v welder. he uses shielding gas, not flux core, and if i remember right he has .035" wire. (does that sound right?) I an confident in his welding abilities.. but I'm not so sure a 110 can handle 1/4" steel on something as vital as suspension components.

do you guys think his welder is capable? are there any tips to make the welds stronger?

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post #2 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 08:07 AM
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i'd suggest flux-core with the gas, will penetrate nicely. make sure the 1/4" is beveled on all welding edges at least halfway thru the cross section - then make two passes, a root pass, grind a shallow groove in the weld with a grinder, then run a 2nd pass over the top.

that said, I've tried to weld 1/4" with my 110v 140amp Hobart before using flux-core, with lots of beveling, and it ended up plenty solid. I didn't feel like I was getting enough penetration on the tacks, I needed to heat the steel up and keep going. I ended up stopping and waiting until I could take the part to my buddy's place with 220V 180amp. That felt sooo much better.


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post #3 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
i'd suggest flux-core with the gas, will penetrate nicely. make sure the 1/4" is beveled on all welding edges at least halfway thru the cross section - then make two passes, a root pass, grind a shallow groove in the weld with a grinder, then run a 2nd pass over the top.

that said, I've tried to weld 1/4" with my 110v 140amp Hobart before using flux-core, with lots of beveling, and it ended up plenty solid. I didn't feel like I was getting enough penetration on the tacks, I needed to heat the steel up and keep going. I ended up stopping and waiting until I could take the part to my buddy's place with 220V 180amp. That felt sooo much better.

x2 on what he said...i also have used the gas with flux core wire..much hotter weld..go slow and let the welder do the work and dont try to speed it up any faster

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post #4 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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well... he doesn't have any flux core, so I would probably have to buy the spool. not sure on cost there, but i would imagine it would be cheaper to just have him tack it in place when were doing mock up, then have someone else with a 220 come through and lay some solid welds.
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 08:57 AM
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at tractor supply the 1 lb spool should be like10-20 bucks tops..

if your buddy is a welder for a liveing he will probally do a better job and be stronger than youd think.
ive welded all my life since high scholl unfortaunatlly,haha
ive welded 3 inch welds on hinges,to gate post,holding a gate that was like 450 lbs many times..
if you think about how heavy 450 lbs is when its hanging out 16ft to the side it probally like 1200 lbs then..ive never had a problem..but i do know what im doing,,most of the time anyway lol..good luck..

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post #6 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 09:03 AM
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Go to HD or Lowes and get one of the little spools, usually $10 and have em use that. I would NOT use straight wire and gas for 1/4" with a 110V machine.


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post #7 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 12:05 PM
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flux core with gas will only work if the flux core wire is dual sheild.....and dual sheild only comes in .045 or larger. use flux core, and you may want to pre heat, and move slow. also, i doubt a 110 machine will burn .045 wire very well, and you'd have to change the liner and blah blah blah......
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 12:09 PM
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I built this with my HH140 on 0.035" flux core wire:



Those spring perches you speak of were used on the rear of my Jeep. Turn the heat all the way up, play with wire speed and go slowly. Make a second or even third pass if you want to make sure it's not going anywhere.


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post #9 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 02:41 PM
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If he has the HH140 and is using .035 solid wire it is rated for 3/16" but if you bevel it and pre-heat it it will be fine. But you can buy a small 2# spool of FC wire pretty cheap and it will weld it fine too. And Ive seen a HH140 using .030 solid wire weld some pretty thick stuff and its all held up fin and some of the welds are on suspension components.


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post #10 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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thanks joey
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post #11 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 09:20 PM
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Hey Flatlander what wire do you use? I ran out of the .030 FC it came with and I bought a 10# spool of .035 Lincoln FC wire and my beads look like crap, with the wire it came with they were perfect looking I still get good penetration but it looks ugly.


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post #12 of 16 Old 10-18-2009, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jsc7002 View Post
Hey Flatlander what wire do you use? I ran out of the .030 FC it came with and I bought a 10# spool of .035 Lincoln FC wire and my beads look like crap, with the wire it came with they were perfect looking I still get good penetration but it looks ugly.
sounds like operator error to me. I've never had a problem with Lincoln wire...


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post #13 of 16 Old 10-19-2009, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jsc7002 View Post
Hey Flatlander what wire do you use? I ran out of the .030 FC it came with and I bought a 10# spool of .035 Lincoln FC wire and my beads look like crap, with the wire it came with they were perfect looking I still get good penetration but it looks ugly.
Two things come to mind:
1) did you change the drive rollers to .035 size??
2) are you trying to do the same welds with the same settings as before?? Switching wire size means you need to switch your settings as well.


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post #14 of 16 Old 10-19-2009, 11:46 AM
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Hey Flatlander what wire do you use? I ran out of the .030 FC it came with and I bought a 10# spool of .035 Lincoln FC wire and my beads look like crap, with the wire it came with they were perfect looking I still get good penetration but it looks ugly.
I use Hobart wire... what kind of contact tips do you use? I was given some Weld-It tips from Eddie as killed my last one and the store was out of all 0.035" tips. I was killing those tips pretty quickly and the welds looked kinda crappy. I bought some Hobart 0.035" contact tips and they last way longer and work much better.

I also use nozzle dip to keep the tips cleaner/easier to clean. The 0.035 wire produces a LOT more spatter so that's something you'll just have to deal with, but the main weld should be fine.

edit:

also you can't run the wire speed as high. Most of my welding is done on heat setting 3 or 4 depending on what I'm doing, but my wire speed is usually no higher than 30 or 35ish. Most importantly go SLOW. I think the fatter wire needs more heat and slower wire speed or else it will push back due to not being hot enough to "melt" it as fast as it is being put out.

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post #15 of 16 Old 10-19-2009, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757 View Post
I use Hobart wire... what kind of contact tips do you use? I was given some Weld-It tips from Eddie as killed my last one and the store was out of all 0.035" tips. I was killing those tips pretty quickly and the welds looked kinda crappy. I bought some Hobart 0.035" contact tips and they last way longer and work much better.

I also use nozzle dip to keep the tips cleaner/easier to clean. The 0.035 wire produces a LOT more spatter so that's something you'll just have to deal with, but the main weld should be fine.

edit:

also you can't run the wire speed as high. Most of my welding is done on heat setting 3 or 4 depending on what I'm doing, but my wire speed is usually no higher than 30 or 35ish. Most importantly go SLOW. I think the fatter wire needs more heat and slower wire speed or else it will push back due to not being hot enough to "melt" it as fast as it is being put out.
I bought some cheap Tweco they were $0.60 and the miller tips were $1.62 each, but I did notice that the Tweco didnt look as nice as the Miller. I dont use the nozzle cleaner but I do clean the end of the gun and contact tip and nozzle often. I was able to get some better beads the more I used it but I think the speed is probably my problem, with the .030 I ran just short of 50 and when I couldnt get a good bead and started playing with the wire speed I turned it down and the beads started to look a little better.

Thanks for the ideas, Ill probably go and buy a new tip and Ill turn the speed down some more.


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