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Unread 03-12-2014, 09:39 AM   #46
Helldorado Customs
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Originally Posted by tdkask View Post
Helldorado, are you making it for multiple vehicles or just need one? I happen to have one I will never use nor a late style CJ. It's the same thickness as whatever stock is, I guess. Someone bought it as a aftermarket part and didn't use it, I got it in a trade or something, and will not need it (building a beefier crossmember and bumper combo). It's available for shipping and $15 (beer money).

I'm just repairing one...now....lol. I'll take it !! Just send a request for dollars through paypal to helldoradocustoms@gmail.com and I'll send it your way ! and....much appreciated !!


-Scott

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Unread 03-25-2014, 01:17 PM   #47
JStrider
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Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
TJ and YJ Winch Plate w/ 4"x10.5" Bolt Pattern


Are the mounting holes for the fairlead really supposed to be offset that far above the midline of the fairlead hole?
It seems like you would want the holes on either side to be centered with the main hole.

If they are supposed to be offset, what is the advantage? it seems most pictures I'm finding online show the holes centered.

Thanks!
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Unread 04-29-2014, 05:17 PM   #48
nickbol9
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baleigh tn-250 knock off

would anyone be interested in a baleigh industrial tn250 knock off? I have designed my own based off from their design and have all .DXF files for it
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Unread 05-01-2014, 06:19 PM   #49
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JStrider View Post
Are the mounting holes for the fairlead really supposed to be offset that far above the midline of the fairlead hole?
It seems like you would want the holes on either side to be centered with the main hole.

If they are supposed to be offset, what is the advantage? it seems most pictures I'm finding online show the holes centered.

Thanks!

Doh! I just saw this post..

I offset the holes higher so that a big roller fairlead will fit, without hitting the bumper that the winch plate is sitting on. Also, I tried to keep the lower lip of the fairlead hole nice and low.. so that it doesn't chafe the cable coming off the bottom of the drum. However, I need to have at least 1" of lip to fit in my pressbrake die correctly (2" V die).
You can center the holes if you're running an aluminum hawse fairlead and synthetic rope... but with a roller fairlead, it usually works better raised up a bit.
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Unread 05-06-2014, 02:29 PM   #50
JStrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Doh! I just saw this post..

I offset the holes higher so that a big roller fairlead will fit, without hitting the bumper that the winch plate is sitting on. Also, I tried to keep the lower lip of the fairlead hole nice and low.. so that it doesn't chafe the cable coming off the bottom of the drum. However, I need to have at least 1" of lip to fit in my pressbrake die correctly (2" V die).
You can center the holes if you're running an aluminum hawse fairlead and synthetic rope... but with a roller fairlead, it usually works better raised up a bit.
Thanks for the info, I've got a friend that is cutting this for me, once he gets his plasma cutter aligned properly... might have happened this weekend. I'll have to touch base with him about centering the holes, since I'm running synthetic. sounds like it will work fine either way.
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Unread 06-11-2014, 09:29 PM   #51
steveinil
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Yj belly skid? D60 disk brake brackets? D60 d44 diff cover?
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Unread 10-25-2014, 10:02 PM   #52
Motas
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Hey guys anyone got any drawings for dana 30/44/60 diffs? A solidworks model of the outside of the housing would be ideal. Need to make trusses for each and would be happy make the templates available here in return for any help with the reverse engineering part.
Cheers.

Also if anyone needs anything drawn or modeled let me know and we might be able to work something out.
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Unread 11-30-2014, 08:56 PM   #53
SadDayPanda
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I have the them for 44's and 60's and 14's and 9 inch faces, they are all in AutoCad though. Not sure if they will help you.
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Unread 12-23-2014, 04:06 PM   #54
Motas
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Would definitely be helpful! Any chance you could post them up? Especially the 44 and 60. Autocad is fine for me as well if anyone has anything to do with a truss drawn.
Thanks.
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Unread 01-04-2015, 08:20 PM   #55
SadDayPanda
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Apparently I lied on the dana 44, here is the d60, 14 bolt and ford 9...

If anyone happens to have a cad of the YJ skid plate mounts.. Ultimately I just need the bolt holes... I'm look around the web and see if i can find it, but cad would be best for me.
File Type: dwg gm14_d60_Ford9.dwg (106.1 KB, 65 views)
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Unread 01-04-2015, 08:33 PM   #56
Motas
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Dont know if you noticed but it has a D44 cover ring drawing, not sure exactly what it is but its something. Thanks for the 60 that will help me heaps later on.
Anyone else have a D44 drawing?
Cheers.
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Unread 01-05-2015, 08:05 PM   #57
SadDayPanda
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Haha, i was just going by the name of the file.
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Unread 01-21-2015, 03:10 PM   #58
SadDayPanda
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If anyone has any drawing requests, I'm looking to do a bit of polishing on my cad skills. I'm kind of running out of things to draw for my own purposes. Post them up. I'll see if I can't help ya out.
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Unread 01-22-2015, 09:47 AM   #59
tdkask
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SadDayPanda
If anyone has any drawing requests, I'm looking to do a bit of polishing on my cad skills. I'm kind of running out of things to draw for my own purposes. Post them up. I'll see if I can't help ya out.
You can NEVER go wrong with the basics.
Disc brake brackets. Cool gussets. Trusses. Foot pegs. Diff covers/skids. Shock towers/tabs. Etc etc.
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Unread 03-16-2015, 10:54 AM   #60
GrantYJ
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Originally Posted by SadDayPanda View Post
If anyone has any drawing requests, I'm looking to do a bit of polishing on my cad skills. I'm kind of running out of things to draw for my own purposes. Post them up. I'll see if I can't help ya out.
If you're doing much modding to your Jeep at all, I highly recommend drawing it in 3D. Not necessarily the entire Jeep (but that wouldn't be bad), but at least the front and rear end of the frame, rough in the body (doesn't necessarily need all the contours); however, it aids greatly when you're designing bumpers, rock rails, and etc. It's also handy when you want to see what the profile is going to look like with "X" amount of lift or stretch.
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