Butt Joint vs Mitered Joint ...Please help a newB - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
dwilliamsceg
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Butt Joint vs Mitered Joint ...Please help a newB

I am building a trailer and can fashion the chassis and other components in a variety of ways. A nagging question that I have is what is better between the two following joint types? By better I mean stronger, more attractive, easier to weld, etc. PLease explain your answer.



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post #2 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 08:19 AM
Jim1611
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I think the mitered joint is best myself.

1. If tubing is being used there isn't a hole that needs to be plugged afterwards.
2. In using angle iron you have more contact area to weld thus making a stronger joint, unless you over lap the ends in which case you'll have an uneven surface to deal with later.
3. If you use channel iron it's by far the easiest where to coners meet, just butt the corners together without a miter and you'll see why.

Hope this helps and have fun with the build!
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 08:20 AM
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A mitered joint is usually better. If i was using angle iron i would miter (butt joints won't have much contact), but square tubing i would just butt, unless the open hole would look funny.
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comments guys.
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 08:31 AM
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weld

Butt welds are easier than mitered weld in that it is usually easier to cut 90 degree angles than 45 degree angles. Mitered welds are more than likely stronger (more surface welded) plus if it is box tubing mitered welds close both pieces and a butt weld leaves one end open. Plus the mitered weld looks better when cleaned up than a butt weld. If you are into wood work too the same applies to welding with regards to types of joints you would use. A mitered joint is stronger than a butt joint because there is more surface making contact in a miltered joint to put it is simpler terms. puttputt56
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 08:59 AM
limegreentj
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if its tubing being used, they are really both equally as strong, but...one a butt joint, you can add a fish plate and make it a little stronger, you cant do that with a mitered joint.
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 09:28 AM
Totallymetal
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The miter joint you decribed may work just fine. I have never used that type of joint. I would prefer the lap joint for thinner material. Half open or full open for thicker material (welded both sides). The goal is to get 100% penetration. That miter joint looks like a mess to create and to get a good weld on the outside.


Thought we were dealing with plate... I do like the lap or butt for tube.


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post #8 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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FYI. This question is mainly for 2 inch square tuning
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwilliamsceg View Post
FYI. This question is mainly for 2 inch square tuning
just butt it and cap the end. You could even make the cap a bit longer for super strength! A miter on a 2" piece would need to be perfect. Lots of messing with the saw, lengths, etc required for a miter joint.
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
just butt it and cap the end. You could even make the cap a bit longer for super strength!
This is probably the best / easiest way to do it for the framing of the trailer.

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post #11 of 12 Old 11-23-2009, 02:06 PM
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Miter joint...


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post #12 of 12 Old 11-24-2009, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
dwilliamsceg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
just butt it and cap the end. You could even make the cap a bit longer for super strength! A miter on a 2" piece would need to be perfect. Lots of messing with the saw, lengths, etc required for a miter joint.
I like this approach. It will be easy to cut and square and the cap/lap application would make it super strong. Thanks for the idea!
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