Building the Box (TJ Storage Trunk) - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 19 Old 04-17-2013, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Building the Box (TJ Storage Trunk)

Not unlike many, I've been thinking out loud for years (just ask my girlfriend) about removing the rear seats and building a storage trunk for the Jeep. No more keeping my socket sets under the seats and my wrenches behind the bench alongside my crappy speakers and old blankets. The Jeep deserved more. I deserved more.

Here I will chronicle the building of a versatile trunk. It will accomplish a few things:

1) have space for tools, fluids, recovery equipment, and other things
2) have a self contained speaker system
3) incorporate electronics/amplifiers
4) seal up, lock, be water resistant

The box will only occupy the amount of space that the rear area accommodates, and will have a hinged top to allow access to the entire box at once. I debated drawers, multiple compartments, but the easiest way for this to be versatile is for it to be all accessible with one fell swoop. This will be done via 2 hydraulic pistons on each side to hoist the top up once the lock and latch are undone.

I don't have any diagrams of what I'll be doing, but envision a large area (technically 35"x34.5") that is largely open. It will be broken technically into 3 sections, one being the storage area, 2 being the subwoofer enclosure (sealed, not ported) and 3 being the amplifier storage. The hinged lid will only cover area 1. The other 2 will be boxed in.

So I went to Home Depot and picked up two 4'x8' sheets of Poplar plywood. It is gorgeous wood, and should be perfect for the application. I also grabbed some 1"x1.5" strapping to brace the insides once assembled.

So here's what I got done on day 1 with some interruptions.

Measurements:

35" long (tailgate to seats)
34.5" wide (between wheel wells)
12.75" tall (floor to top of wheel wells)


Note: the front area that goes against the seats is cut at an angle to allow the seats to slide all the way back on their rails and still recline to a comfortable position.













Loosely placed, not assembled:





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post #2 of 19 Old 04-18-2013, 12:43 PM
zdhutson
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This looks very cool! I was thinking about a storage box that could also hold a sub and amps. Subscribed and very interested.

Currently: 2007 X: 2 Door, Steel Blue Metallic, Manual, Skyjacker 2.5" lift, Nitro 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Grabber 2
Formerly: 2001 Sport: Black, Manual, D44, Stock on 31s but lovingly abused (I loved that rig.)
KCCO
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post #3 of 19 Old 04-18-2013, 06:07 PM
Jim1611
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Great project and I'm sure will turn out great. Here's another look at one if the info will do you any good http://articles.jeepforum.com/Custom_Rear_Storage
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post #4 of 19 Old 04-19-2013, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Thanks guys! Jim, I checked out the thread. Always interesting to see what other people do- and those storage slots are awesome.


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post #5 of 19 Old 04-19-2013, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Rough day in Boston today, so with the iPad monitoring ABC News, and the Jeep scanner turned to the BPD radios......

I got a lot of work done today. I used some 1x2" wood to act as a brace along all of the vertical walls. This is allowing me to make all of the screw heads on the inside of the trunk instead of the outside where they're potentially ugly! The exception to this will be on the top of the trunk. So I got the walls up, cut the angle for the front speaker face, and started gluing and screwing things into place. LiquidNails is awesome.

The most interesting point of this is going to be the subwoofer enclosure. I've never had to build one before, so we'll see if I can do this without screwing it up. Being the fact that it's a triangular enclosure, things can be more difficult. Details are as follows:




So that's the plan! The hardest part is going to be sealing the sub side up. I'm going to do my best, so we'll see how that turns out. Here are a few more photos...













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post #6 of 19 Old 04-19-2013, 04:02 PM
Jim1611
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You're welcome. It is nice to see what other folks are doing, that's why I'm watching your work! Great idea on gluing the corners.

Hopefully they catch that suspect and nobody else get's hurt or killed.
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post #7 of 19 Old 04-21-2013, 02:44 PM
responder
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Looks good so far. What are the plans for mounting it. Will it be quick attach or permanent mounts?
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post #8 of 19 Old 04-21-2013, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by responder View Post
Looks good so far. What are the plans for mounting it. Will it be quick attach or permanent mounts?
My plan is a mix of both quick and permanent. I'm intending on doing bolts from the box to the fold&tumble bench bracket, with nuts on the outside of the bracket. From there, the rear of the box will have a bolt going through it's floor into the sear seatbelt bolt in the tub of the Jeep. This will keep it secure on all fronts, and allow it to be removed with relative ease if/when that is necessary.


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post #9 of 19 Old 04-21-2013, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Did some more work on the box yesterday once the clouds cleared. I started out measuring my crop circle to cut the subwoofer port out of. The sub enclosure follows the measurements above, and the 8" driver will fit nicely inside the port. I then came to a crossroads, debating cutting out holes for my CB and scanner in the front face as well. Reason for this is that I've got a weld-in cage waiting in my shed for me to have time to install. The current location of my radios is right where the A-Pillar support under the windshield will be, which will ultimately relocate them. So I took the jig saw and cut out 2 fitted holes for the two radios as well. This way wiring can go up to the dash for an external speaker for both radios. After that came a TON of glue (crazy how quickly I went through a tube of it) and sealing things up. I used 2 large hinges from Depot on the deck, and the box is now mostly assembled.

What's left is going to be painting it, drilling the holes for the bolts to mount it, and wiring it up for the speakers, radios, and amplifier.






















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post #10 of 19 Old 04-21-2013, 03:59 PM
thantos858
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With the subs I would use silicone caulking instead of glue around them but other than that looks good. The reason for the caulk over glue is it flexes a lot more so it wont crack over time.
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post #11 of 19 Old 04-21-2013, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thantos858 View Post
With the subs I would use silicone caulking instead of glue around them but other than that looks good. The reason for the caulk over glue is it flexes a lot more so it wont crack over time.
Are you referring to silicone caulking around the joints of the sub enclosure? Or do you mean to use it as a sealant between the walls of the enclosure?

Thanks


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post #12 of 19 Old 04-22-2013, 08:12 AM
thantos858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy View Post
Are you referring to silicone caulking around the joints of the sub enclosure? Or do you mean to use it as a sealant between the walls of the enclosure?

Thanks
If your subs are powerful enough I would do the whole thing. The enclosure at the least should get a bead of it. Nothing like spending a lot of time on something only to have to redo it because your subs rattled it apart.
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post #13 of 19 Old 04-22-2013, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thantos858 View Post
If your subs are powerful enough I would do the whole thing. The enclosure at the least should get a bead of it. Nothing like spending a lot of time on something only to have to redo it because your subs rattled it apart.
It's not crazy powerful. 150rms/300pk at 8 ohms, 86 dBSPL. I emptied a tube of wood glue bonding it together so honestly at this point it'd be a nightmare to take apart. I'll lay down a bead at the joints though.


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post #14 of 19 Old 04-22-2013, 11:53 AM
mrott
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Very cool. I'm starting to collect parts to build a trunk as well. I have a different plan in mind but some aspects are definitely similar.

I don't intend to have a bottom as the tub of the Jeep will be the bottom of my box. I also won't have anything across the back. The gate will serve as the back, so as long as that's locked, there's no problem there. Though you're also going for more of a sealed/water resistant area whereas I'm just going for a protected area to store my fire gear, tools, etc.

I'll be looking forward to seeing your finished product to maybe take a few design bits from it as I plan and build mine!
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post #15 of 19 Old 04-23-2013, 06:43 PM
thantos858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy View Post
It's not crazy powerful. 150rms/300pk at 8 ohms, 86 dBSPL. I emptied a tube of wood glue bonding it together so honestly at this point it'd be a nightmare to take apart. I'll lay down a bead at the joints though.
Thats not much at all. The caulk will also help with the sound. I used to run 4000-6000rms depending on the vehicle I had at the time just for subs.
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