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Unread 02-28-2011, 12:14 PM   #16
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i feel that if you're going to pay almost $300 for a product it shouldnt look like it was bent in a HF kinker.

if you wanted that you couldve done it yourself for half the price.

-chris

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Unread 02-28-2011, 12:22 PM   #17
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i was tossing the idea around about having middle spreader bars without the bends in them. I was gonna mock it up with pvc to see what it looked like and how much space it took up.
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Unread 02-28-2011, 12:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
i feel that if you're going to pay almost $300 for a product it shouldnt look like it was bent in a HF kinker.

if you wanted that you couldve done it yourself for half the price.

-chris
Yeah, I know I could have done it much cheaper. But, I really don't have the time to start messing, notching, bending, measuring, etc. I figured buy the kit, save a lot of time, and slap it together.

I will call OR Fab and ask them to send me replacements.
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Unread 03-02-2011, 07:47 PM   #19
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Well, I emailed OR Fab and they indeed said the overhead bars are the only thing not bent on a mandrel bender. It does not sound like they will replace them, although I did request in my last email back to them that I would like mandrel bent tubing since they do advertise this cage as such. They said they "always made them this way". I'm not too happy with their customer service in this regard, but in all honesty, they bends don't bother me all that much...especially since I know this is not truly a "roll cage". It looks worse in the pics then it does in person.
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Unread 03-03-2011, 06:39 AM   #20
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Just catching up with you cage install Jeremy. It looks like those overhead tubes were bent on a tail pipe bender. I really can't see any reason why it would be cheaper or faster for them to not be bent on a mandrel type bender. If they do bother you to look at them I guess you could wrap some kind of padding around them and forget about it.

By the way you just had to go and put more pictures of the Mustang on here didn't you. I've been meaning to ask you if you have an electronic home security system, I'm planning an auto theft in Tucson sometime.
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Unread 03-03-2011, 07:33 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Just catching up with you cage install Jeremy. It looks like those overhead tubes were bent on a tail pipe bender. I really can't see any reason why it would be cheaper or faster for them to not be bent on a mandrel type bender. If they do bother you to look at them I guess you could wrap some kind of padding around them and forget about it.

By the way you just had to go and put more pictures of the Mustang on here didn't you. I've been meaning to ask you if you have an electronic home security system, I'm planning an auto theft in Tucson sometime.
Yeah, I don't know why they did it this way either.

I do indeed have an electronic home security system, but that is not nearly as scary as my manuel security system LOL
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Unread 03-03-2011, 06:54 PM   #22
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Yeah, I don't know why they did it this way either.

I do indeed have an electronic home security system, but that is not nearly as scary as my manuel security system LOL
I kinda figured you had the old fashioned kind of home security. Me too.
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Unread 03-19-2011, 11:03 AM   #23
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Aside from the grab handles, I got her all welded up yesterday. Came out good. I took Jim's ^^^ advice and welded on some temporary "stabilizer bars" so that there is not too much warpage once the heat has been applied. I also added a dash spreader and a spreader over the back seat. A tall person like me (6'2") would hit their heads on the rear spreader bars. But, I will NEVER be in the back seat. My buddy is about 5'10" and it was not a problem for him.

At the moment, the dash spreader looks a bit high. But once the windshield is lifted back up and the dash pad is installed, there is really only about 1/4" clearance between the dash pad and the bar.

Per jim's recommendation....


Cage tacked up and removed




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Unread 03-19-2011, 11:42 AM   #24
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I like the looks of it Jeremy. If only you had a plasma table to make some keen looking gussets though.

Hey you're going to run hard top aren't you? I was looking at the outside bars and they look like they could be higher, like the middle spreader bars. That would give a bit more room when getting in and out if they were. I'd like to see how they fit.

Great job on the install too. Boy I struggle with welding around stuff like those bars, I can appreciate the job your doing.
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Unread 03-19-2011, 12:47 PM   #25
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I like the looks of it Jeremy. If only you had a plasma table to make some keen looking gussets though.

Hey you're going to run hard top aren't you? I was looking at the outside bars and they look like they could be higher, like the middle spreader bars. That would give a bit more room when getting in and out if they were. I'd like to see how they fit.

Great job on the install too. Boy I struggle with welding around stuff like those bars, I can appreciate the job your doing.
Jim,

I am not going to do the hard top. If you remember, I bought one a while back that I was going to refurb, but ended up selling it because I lost interest. I generally have no top, and for the hot days and cold days I will just throw on the soft tap. I have AC and heat, and both do well when needed.

Yeah, welding around the bars is hard as you know. Some areas I had to grind down a bit, but they are all more or less good welds.

The outside bars are a good height I think. THey are definitely lower then the middle bars, but they are the same height as the factory YJ bars that were on there. They don't really get in the way though. They are a good height because when I fit my soft top back on there it was a nice and tight fit.
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Unread 03-19-2011, 01:48 PM   #26
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Jim,

I am not going to do the hard top. If you remember, I bought one a while back that I was going to refurb, but ended up selling it because I lost interest. I generally have no top, and for the hot days and cold days I will just throw on the soft tap. I have AC and heat, and both do well when needed.

Yeah, welding around the bars is hard as you know. Some areas I had to grind down a bit, but they are all more or less good welds.

The outside bars are a good height I think. THey are definitely lower then the middle bars, but they are the same height as the factory YJ bars that were on there. They don't really get in the way though. They are a good height because when I fit my soft top back on there it was a nice and tight fit.
Well if the bars don't get in your way of getting in and out then they won't bother me either. I'm not as tall as you. Sold the hardtop. It was a good one.

Jeremy I really think tig would be the way to go for welding around things like roll bars and such. I don't own a tig but would like to have one. I guess too that maybe if we practice enough we'll get the hang of welding in circles.

Hey are you going to move the sun visors?
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Unread 03-19-2011, 09:35 PM   #27
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Well if the bars don't get in your way of getting in and out then they won't bother me either. I'm not as tall as you. Sold the hardtop. It was a good one.

Jeremy I really think tig would be the way to go for welding around things like roll bars and such. I don't own a tig but would like to have one. I guess too that maybe if we practice enough we'll get the hang of welding in circles.

Hey are you going to move the sun visors?
TIG is definitely the way to go. Too bad I do not own one. Maybe when this plasma table starts making me some money I can purchase one.

For some reason when I was welding the cage, I had a lot of "cold starts". I normally do not get them too often, but was getting them here. I did preheat after I got 2/3 cold starts, but that did not seem to help much. What can I do to eliminate them?

Not sure what I am going to do with the visors. I would had to drill more holes in the windshield frame. Maybe I can somehow integrate an adaptor plate that bolts in to my current holes and then the visors can be moved inboard on the plates? Thoughts?
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Unread 03-20-2011, 07:17 AM   #28
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TIG is definitely the way to go. Too bad I do not own one. Maybe when this plasma table starts making me some money I can purchase one.

For some reason when I was welding the cage, I had a lot of "cold starts". I normally do not get them too often, but was getting them here. I did preheat after I got 2/3 cold starts, but that did not seem to help much. What can I do to eliminate them?

Not sure what I am going to do with the visors. I would had to drill more holes in the windshield frame. Maybe I can somehow integrate an adaptor plate that bolts in to my current holes and then the visors can be moved inboard on the plates? Thoughts?
What about mounting the visors on the bar?

Are you cutting the end of the mig wire off everytime you start a new weld? That might help in getting the best bead you can from the start. Really it's recommended even with tig welding to cut the end of the filler rod.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 07:31 AM   #29
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One of the reasons I wanted to do my dash mount front cage was so I could put the windshield down and up really quickly. I added small brackets to the windshield using the original bolts. The brackets have a simple rubber bumper positioned just right to hit the new bars. I used the hollow bumpers that Bestop uses to keep Supertop hoops from banging on the tub when folded. To secure the windshield, I use an old fashoned bicycle pedal 'toe-clip' strap through the windshield's footman loop and around the bar. The same strap secures the folded windshield to the footman loop on the hood. Windshield up/down in 20 seconds with no tools.

For me, that lower windshield cross bar you added was a major pain for passengers. I'm your height and didn't mind much, but chick sized people couldn't see poop.

Oh, I also mounted the rear view mirror to a MagLight clip ($5 a pair at the hdw store) and it clips on the bar. Now when off-road and windshield down I can still keep track of my buddies behind me.
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Unread 05-25-2011, 09:09 PM   #30
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Finally done!!!!

I finally finished the sport cage add-on. It has actually been done for a while, but it has been sitting at the powder coater for about 5 weeks or so. I get really good pricing on powdercoating, but I have to wait for another job of the same color to come in for me to get this pricing. Since I had a bazillion other things going on, I figured why wait any longer.

So, someone finally needed this color done and they were able to coat my roll cage with the other customers items. This is a stock color at the powder coater and it is pretty much an exact match. Overall, I am pretty satisfied with how the roll bar came out. Here are some pics from today's installation...









I planned on eventually make an integrated rack to slide in the tub for camping and such. It basically serves as a "second story" when the rear seat is removed. I had Eddie make me a few brackets for this project a while back. As you can see, this is the passenger side and the driver side has the same brackets in the same location. The rack will just bolt on with some wing nuts.

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