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Unread 12-11-2005, 08:18 PM   #1
mjeselskis
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Broken rear crossmember

I went out wheelin this past week and one of my buddies got stuck. All I have for tow points on the back is a hitch so i hooked my tow strap to my hitch ball since that was all there was. While pulling I felt something give and when i checked it out the right side of the crossmember had broken off from the frame on the bottom and sides so the only part holding is the top of the frame on the right side. Does anyone have any links or advice on how to repair this? I have seen somewhere that someone replaced their rear crossmember with a piece of 2x4 tubing. I dont know exactly the best way to do this, but it needs to be fixed soon. I am probably going to take this opportunity to build a good bumper for the back since i am fabbing something up back there anyways. Please give me some help here.

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1989 black YJ, 2.5L 5speed
SOA on stock springs with add a leaf in rear, Welded D30, Posi-Locked, traction bar, Rear 5/8" Boomerang Shackles, OBA, Ditched Front and Rear Trac Bar, 34x10.5 LTB TSL Swampers on 15x8 M/T Classics, Ramsey Pro Plus 9000
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Unread 12-11-2005, 10:01 PM   #2
2500HD4X
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Im not exactly sure how the rear crossmember works on a YJ, but on mine its a pretty simple stamped steel piece of C-Channel that bolts on to tabs on the side of the frame and the rear shackle hangers bolt through it as well. The rear of the tub bolts on to the top of the crossmember... To me it looks remarkably like a stock front bumper (pretty flimsy)...
You can buy a new crossmember or you could fab one up yourself if you have the materials/tools available pretty easily. Just make sure to hit all your critical dimensions (Body mounts, frame mounts, skid plate mounts, etc.) when you design it and build a kick butt one thats bombproof. By far the easiest/fastest route would be to go to 4wd.com and buy a premade crossmember for your jeep. They cost around 85 dollars for the crossmember.
How was your hitch mounted? Just to the crossmember w/no frame tie ins? You should get some frame mounted tow hooks on the back whichever way you go with your crossmember; unless you really beef up the crossmember and strengthen the tie in to the frame. Good luck with it.
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Unread 12-11-2005, 10:22 PM   #3
mjeselskis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500HD4X
Im not exactly sure how the rear crossmember works on a YJ, but on mine its a pretty simple stamped steel piece of C-Channel that bolts on to tabs on the side of the frame and the rear shackle hangers bolt through it as well. The rear of the tub bolts on to the top of the crossmember... To me it looks remarkably like a stock front bumper (pretty flimsy)...
You can buy a new crossmember or you could fab one up yourself if you have the materials/tools available pretty easily. Just make sure to hit all your critical dimensions (Body mounts, frame mounts, skid plate mounts, etc.) when you design it and build a kick butt one thats bombproof. By far the easiest/fastest route would be to go to 4wd.com and buy a premade crossmember for your jeep. They cost around 85 dollars for the crossmember.
How was your hitch mounted? Just to the crossmember w/no frame tie ins? You should get some frame mounted tow hooks on the back whichever way you go with your crossmember; unless you really beef up the crossmember and strengthen the tie in to the frame. Good luck with it.
The crossmember is very flimsy stamped C channel that is welded onto the back of the frame rails. It is dark now so i cant get a picture of it. I suppose I could just buy a new one but i dont see the point because it needs to be welded in and its just going to be flimsy still. The whole issue is that the rear of the frame rail is rusty so thats why the crossmember broke off. I think the best way to fix this is to repair the rusted section of the frame rail and replace the crossmember with 2x4x3/16 tubing that will never give me any more trouble and then I can build a bumper off that crossmember which will be alot more tough than the stock crossmember.
The hitch was just bolted to the rear crossmember with 4 bolts. The hitch came on the jeep when i bought it this fall and i never bothered to examine how it was mounted. Now I can see that it was not a very rugged setup to be using for a tow point.
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1989 black YJ, 2.5L 5speed
SOA on stock springs with add a leaf in rear, Welded D30, Posi-Locked, traction bar, Rear 5/8" Boomerang Shackles, OBA, Ditched Front and Rear Trac Bar, 34x10.5 LTB TSL Swampers on 15x8 M/T Classics, Ramsey Pro Plus 9000
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Unread 12-11-2005, 10:51 PM   #4
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500HD4X
Im not exactly sure how the rear crossmember works on a YJ, but on mine its a pretty simple stamped steel piece of C-Channel that bolts on to tabs on the side of the frame and the rear shackle hangers bolt through it as well. The rear of the tub bolts on to the top of the crossmember... To me it looks remarkably like a stock front bumper (pretty flimsy)...
You can buy a new crossmember or you could fab one up yourself if you have the materials/tools available pretty easily. Just make sure to hit all your critical dimensions (Body mounts, frame mounts, skid plate mounts, etc.) when you design it and build a kick butt one thats bombproof. By far the easiest/fastest route would be to go to 4wd.com and buy a premade crossmember for your jeep. They cost around 85 dollars for the crossmember.
How was your hitch mounted? Just to the crossmember w/no frame tie ins? You should get some frame mounted tow hooks on the back whichever way you go with your crossmember; unless you really beef up the crossmember and strengthen the tie in to the frame. Good luck with it.
that's pretty much the same as the YJ. What i would do and what i plan on doing eventually is the 2x4" tubing idea. get some 1/8 or 3/16" wall tubing and cut it to length so that it will bridge the outside faces of the frame rails. then you can either cut out the three faces so you can recess the tube and weld the remaining face to the frame where the stock member did, clearancing the tube as necessary for the shackle, or you can cap the ends and weld the inner face to the frame so that you have the tube on the outside of the body like a step. or any degree of recessing in between. if you want, you can even build your receiver into the new cross member for a good strong recovery point in the center where you need it.
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