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Unread 03-26-2008, 10:48 PM   #1
Scotch740
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Better Home Brew disconnects

Started a new thread on this cause its different from my other, and I will be showing my fancy construction here.

I am going to make some sway bar disconnects, base off of the JKS disconnects. Very similar to these except with a different top arrangement.


I just ordered 4 of these.


And one of these.



Material- Steel
Finish- Zinc-Plated
Type-Fully Threaded Rods and Studs
Steel Type-General Purpose Steel
Thread Direction-Right Hand Thread
Inch Thread Size-1/2"-20
Overall Length- 24"
Minimum Tensile Strength- 58,000 psi

I am going to make 2 brackets to mount on the top of my sway bars. Similar to the JKs ones. (Pic Below)

I will also be getting:
(4) 1/2"-20 nuts to use as lock nuts on the threaded rod.

(2) 1/2" grade 8 bolts with a large smooth shank for the bottom pins. Cut off the head and put a tapered end on it. Then I will drill a hole for a lynch pin in the end.These will be bolted to the axle sway bar brackets with 2 nuts and washers on each.

(4) 3/16" lynch pins. 2 extra

(2) 1/2" bolts and hardware that will go through a bracket and the upper rod ends.

(2) 3/8" bolts and hardware to secure my bracket to the end of my sway bar.


Couple questions.
1) The swaybar ends are not lined up with the brackets on the TJs. Anyone see a problem with the links being angled inward? Looks like the JKS ones do. (Below pic)

2) The JKS bracket has some more complex bends than I could do with a few clamps and BFH. Anyone see a reason why I could not just have them angle inward or straight down with a spacer on the sides?

3) What thickness metal should I use? I have 1/4" and 3/16" scrap but I do have to bend this with a propane or map gas torch, BFH and clamps.

4) If I totally botch this how hard are the stock swaybar links to get back in the swaybar?

5) Should I be planing on using any rubber bushings on the sides of the lower rod ends?

Other ideas or suggestions?



I basically have tomorrow to make the brackets since I will be home from school for the afternoon and I don't have any metal working tools with me here at school. I will not have the rod ends or rod yet.


Last edited by Scotch740; 04-02-2008 at 06:12 PM..
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Unread 03-27-2008, 09:36 AM   #2
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post
Started a new thread on this cause its different from my other, and I will be showing my fancy construction here.


Couple questions.
1) The swaybar ends are not lined up with the brackets on the TJs. Anyone see a problem with the links being angled inward?
Should not be a problem as long as the joints you got have enough swivel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post
2) The JKS bracket has some more complex bends than I could do with a few clamps and BFH. Anyone see a reason why I could not just have them angle inward or straight down with a spacer on the sides?
Straight down with spacers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post

3) What thickness metal should I use? I have 1/4" and 3/16" scrap but I do have to bend this with a propane or map gas torch, BFH and clamps.
3/16" is plenty, almost overkill.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post
4) If I totally botch this how hard are the stock swaybar links to get back in the swaybar?
Easy as long as they come out in one piece. You won't botch it! Use the force!


Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post
5) Should I be planing on using any rubber bushings on the sides of the lower rod ends?
I see no need for rubber. The stock Jeep link is rubber as there is need of flex/movemnet there. The joints you have should take care of that.

Only issue you may have is with having enought flex in the joints. I would use short sleeves as spacers between the ball and the nut and between the ball and the lynch pin on the lower end and ditto on the top so the ball does not bind with the nut. This is also why I would build the top bracket wide and straight down, which will be easier for you anyway.

Good idea that should work very well.
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Unread 03-29-2008, 05:05 PM   #3
Heavysausage
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Please do tell me where you got the kewl new toys to make these. Thanks
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Unread 03-29-2008, 05:38 PM   #4
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Please do tell me where you got the kewl new toys to make these. Thanks
Look at the post again.

McMaster Carr. www.mcmaster.com
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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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Unread 04-01-2008, 05:32 PM   #5
Scotch740
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My suspension is stock , with 3/4 or 1" spacers up front to give her a better looking stance and a bit of tire clearance. Should I add any length over my stock links' length? I was thinking about adding 3/4" to get them back to the stock angle, since I am cutting a 24" rod into 6" or less sections.

Good news is I will have enough threaded rod left over to make links for a 4" lift if I am correct in my thinking here.

Last edited by Scotch740; 04-02-2008 at 08:30 AM..
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Unread 04-02-2008, 12:23 PM   #6
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Finished this up today.

Here is the bracket I made. I cut it out of some left over 2"x4" 3/16" walled tube from my bumper build. Drilled a 3/8" hole in the center of the top. Then a 3/8" hole 1-7/8" down from the top on both sides.


Took a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt, cut the head off and rounded it down on the grinder then touched it up on the sander. I put the threaded end in a drill to rotate it while grinding and sanding. Then drilled a 1/4" hole in the tip so the edge of the hole was 5/8" from the edge of the nut. In hind sight I should have drilled that hole 1/2" in from the edge of the bolt. This is because I could adjust a tiny bit of play the rod end has between the nut and linchpin. But all I will have to do is get another bolt. Replacement parts are cheap, not that I plan on needing replacements.


Assembled shot. I used some aluminum tube with a 3/8"ID and 1/2" OD as a sleeve for the 3/8" bolt since my rod ends were 1/2".


The Aluminum tube was a very tight fit in the rod ends and the bolts.

I ordered from Mcmaster on Thursday night and got the rod ends and rod on Friday for Mcmaster.

Here are all the parts I used.

Last edited by Scotch740; 08-04-2008 at 11:08 AM..
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Unread 04-02-2008, 12:24 PM   #7
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Went to advance auto parts and borrowed a tie-rod puller with a deposit of $94 guess they really wanted it back.

Popped the old links off. The puller made this VERY easy!

Put my new bracket on.


Remember how I said the aluminum tube was tight. Well there are two different ways to get the bolt through...
The hard way.


The smart way.


I really messed up the tube on the first one. I bough 4 nylon spacers but decided to only use them on the one side since the tube was so tight.

Once I had that together I bolted my stud on the axle end and put the rod end on.


Then I measured the length for the rod and assembled with 2 nuts to lock it in place.


Did the same for the other side, which went much faster now that I figured out to use the puller to push the bolt through the sleeve.





WOW!! These are great. I see why everyone loves the JKS ones. Very quick to get on and off. I still need to figure out how I am going to secure them when disconnected, right now I will probably just use zip ties.

As far as painting goes, I think I will just hit the entire thing, after taping off the lower stud. Anyone see a problem getting a little paint on the rod end balls? I guess I could grease them first if that would be a problem.

Cost:
Rod ends & rod shipped $36
Bolts & hardware $23

Total $59
Not too bad, Although I was hoping to come out a little cheaper but the grade 8 hardware added up real fast.

Last edited by Scotch740; 08-04-2008 at 11:12 AM..
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Unread 04-02-2008, 01:06 PM   #8
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The force is definately with this one. TSD is whats up!!
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Unread 04-02-2008, 04:02 PM   #9
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Just an idea on how to hold them up out of the way when they're disconnected... What if you welded or bolted pins coming off the frame rail? Then you could just pull the pins, swing 'em up and re-pin them on the upper pins. Think it would work?

Edit: Oh, and I almost forgot. Fantastic work, I'm going to copy 'em fer shur.
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Unread 04-02-2008, 05:16 PM   #10
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has your ride changed at all?
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Unread 04-02-2008, 05:17 PM   #11
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they look great too. professional actually.
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Unread 04-02-2008, 05:43 PM   #12
Scotch740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muskyslayr View Post
Just an idea on how to hold them up out of the way when they're disconnected... What if you welded or bolted pins coming off the frame rail? Then you could just pull the pins, swing 'em up and re-pin them on the upper pins. Think it would work?

Edit: Oh, and I almost forgot. Fantastic work, I'm going to copy 'em fer shur.
I am at stock suspension right now but don't plan to be for any longer than possible, so I'm not ready to drill extra holes in my frame just yet. But I will be doing that when I lift. I also don't have access to the tools until summer. I had to stand on the threaded rod and cut it with a hack saw, I did the brackets this past weekend at home.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bman9089 View Post
has your ride changed at all?
My ride did improve. These were my old ones.

Last edited by Scotch740; 04-02-2008 at 06:05 PM..
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Unread 04-02-2008, 06:41 PM   #13
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Great work man! This has definitely inspired me
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Unread 04-02-2008, 09:57 PM   #14
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Awesome build! I think that this will be my next project (in the next month or two). I love the idea that they are adjustable/customizable for any lift I look at in the future. Thanks for the complete write-up.
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Unread 04-06-2008, 05:25 PM   #15
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I shot some grease in the rod ends and painted the links this weekend. On one rod-end the grease zerk came out with the tip of the grease gun. Kinda cheap looking pieces with just ribs and press fit in their holes. If I were doing this again I would consider skipping the greasing points. Especially since it seams a lot of people don't grease the JKS ones. I would also paint them before putting them on the jeep.

Hope some others are finding this helpful I love making my own stuff for the jeep.
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