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Unread 07-29-2011, 10:49 AM   #1
idflatwater
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Best budget tubing bender

What's the best budget tubing bender. I found Hydraulic bender on sale at Oak Harbor it's on sale for $99.99. I'm looking to build side skid bars and up grade my roll cage. Any one know if it'll do what I need to do?

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Unread 07-29-2011, 11:08 AM   #2
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what is Oak Harbor? did you mean Harbor freight? because that is a pipe bender not a tube bender.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 11:15 AM   #3
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That's what I meant. I have a few of their tools and some work well but generally I go with a little better quaility.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 12:51 PM   #4
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if it is just to make some fenders or sliders, a pipe bender should get it done. if you are working on your cage, get a tube bender.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 04:57 PM   #5
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You can't get more than a 20 degree bend out of a pipe bender without some problems with your tube and thats only with a size that fits your die. Pipe and tube are different sizes. If you are gonna use pipe for sliders and bumpers then it could be useful. If you are doing a cage then use tube and that pipe bender will not do the job for you. I am currently building a GotTrikes bender and I will have about $800 in it when I'm finished without the dies. It is a pretty heavy duty air hydraulic bender though so for the money and work of building it I think it's a pretty good way to go. I will have it finished next week.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 06:21 PM   #6
twiisted71
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Do you already know about modding the HF bender by making a saddle to eliminate the pipe/tube kinking? This can make them very worthwhile. Here's a link. I had one of these and it was fine for tinkering. Knowing I wanted to do a lot of custom stuff once I get the drivetrain worked out on my Jeep I sold my HF bender and put an ad on my local CL for a tube bender. I ended up with a ProTools bender with the HD arms, degree plate, stand, extra long handle, couple sets of dies, and an ol' Jointjigger for a small fraction of their original cost. If you aren't in a hurry a wanted ad on CL can sometimes yield things beyond what you even wanted! Then again sometimes its typical CL loonies.


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Unread 04-10-2013, 07:48 PM   #7
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local off road forums, or Craigs list can be helpful.

i found my bender, Pro tools 105HD, stand, degree ring, 1 3/4" 240* die, and air/hydro conversion, on a local forum all for less than the cost of the bender/die new.

but for brand new, the Rogue fab is the most economical setup i came across when looking. If i had not bought the one i did, i had planned on ordering the Rogue fab one. Just over $800 for the bender, die of your choice, and air/hydro setup shipped to. your door.
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Unread 04-13-2013, 07:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twiisted71 View Post
Do you already know about modding the HF bender by making a saddle to eliminate the pipe/tube kinking? This can make them very worthwhile. Here's a link. I had one of these and it was fine for tinkering. Knowing I wanted to do a lot of custom stuff once I get the drivetrain worked out on my Jeep I sold my HF bender and put an ad on my local CL for a tube bender. I ended up with a ProTools bender with the HD arms, degree plate, stand, extra long handle, couple sets of dies, and an ol' Jointjigger for a small fraction of their original cost. If you aren't in a hurry a wanted ad on CL can sometimes yield things beyond what you even wanted! Then again sometimes its typical CL loonies.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlSnVSrWg0M
i tried modding a HF bender we had in the corner of the shop. i got 1 good bend out of it and it took FOREVER.

i suggest JD2 for a nice affordable bender (compared to other benders) . I bend with a JD32 and its pretty beefy and reasonably quick to make a 180degree bend, even without using a ram.

or you could go the route of building your own bender and just buying JD or protools dies. ive heard of some people building homeade hydro benders for around 400 including the dies.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 01:57 PM   #9
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I think it is funny that people always have trouble with the HF pipe bender kinking their bend. 95% of the time they are using tube with the pipe die, but sometimes they are using the correct size pipe in the correct size die. I've used one of these benders for years with good results, and have never had kinking problems. I've built multiple bumpers, cages, sliders, etc with the pipe bender with good results.

I've heard people say that pipe is made of a softer metal then your standard welded seam tube, and honestly it had me a little worried. I sat down with my steel supplier and asked what he knew about the differences, he didn't know so we called the manufacter who told us that the pipe uses the exact same quality steel as welded seam tube.

The HF pipe bender is slow, doesn't bend much tighter a 90* bend (depending on the die), it has a lot of play while trying to line up the pipe with the die/rollers, but it is a cheap tool and does its job. For the hobby minded person who doesn't do a whole lot of bending or can't afford a $800 tube bender this unit will work just fine.

twistted71 - The concept you have there is a cool idea, but personally i've never seen a need for it with the bender I have used. Also, you are not using the bender properly which is what was causing you to get the dimples in the pipe. The rollers need to roll (I grease my pins), the closer they are together the harder it will be for them to roll, and the bender and pipe will have much more stress/pressure on them. Start the rollers at the widest pin hole and make the rollers narrower when the jack runs out of stroke. You will not have any dimpled pipe unless you try to exceed the working range of the die, which will also krinkle the tube.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 04:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by precisioninstal View Post
I've heard people say that pipe is made of a softer metal then your standard welded seam tube, and honestly it had me a little worried. I sat down with my steel supplier and asked what he knew about the differences, he didn't know so we called the manufacter who told us that the pipe uses the exact same quality steel as welded seam tube.
If your supplier doesn't know the difference then it's time for a new supplier.

They steel may be the same, but the process it's put through isn't and that's the major difference. Pipe is designed to carry water/steam/ect, not bear structural load. It's brittle and breaks a lot easier than tube does and the tensile strength of sch40 pipe is about half that of DOM. Pipe cage is a good way to get yourself or someone else seriously injured if not killed. They make tube for a reason.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 05:39 PM   #11
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If your supplier doesn't know the difference then it's time for a new supplier.

They steel may be the same, but the process it's put through isn't and that's the major difference. Pipe is designed to carry water/steam/ect, not bear structural load. It's brittle and breaks a lot easier than tube does and the tensile strength of sch40 pipe is about half that of DOM. Pipe cage is a good way to get yourself or someone else seriously injured if not killed. They make tube for a reason.
You can't expect someone who makes maybe $15/hr and sits behind a counter all day to know much about what they are selling.

You are right, DOM is better than tube or pipe that has a welded seam. It is a great product to make cages chassis's with, I don't much care for the big variance in wall thickness that you get when you buy DOM, but that's just what happens during the production process and can't be helped. Your comment about getting someone injured or killed is totally incorrect, but those were the fears I had before I got the correct information from the company that actually makes the product and not someone off the internet. I don't use pipe anymore because the tubing bender is so much better, and tube is available in much thinner wall thickness, but if for some reason my bender broke and I had to have something bent right then I would go back to it. Pipe has been tried and tested for years around here, seen several rigs either do multiple rolls, or just hard slams with minimal damage to their cages. If it's built right there will not be a structure problem.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 05:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by precisioninstal View Post
You can't expect someone who makes maybe $15/hr and sits behind a counter all day to know much about what they are selling.

You are right, DOM is better than tube or pipe that has a welded seam. It is a great product to make cages chassis's with, I don't much care for the big variance in wall thickness that you get when you buy DOM, but that's just what happens during the production process and can't be helped. Your comment about getting someone injured or killed is totally incorrect, but those were the fears I had before I got the correct information from the company that actually makes the product and not someone off the internet. I don't use pipe anymore because the tubing bender is so much better, and tube is available in much thinner wall thickness, but if for some reason my bender broke and I had to have something bent right then I would go back to it. Pipe has been tried and tested for years around here, seen several rigs either do multiple rolls, or just hard slams with minimal damage to their cages. If it's built right there will not be a structure problem.
wall thickness variance with DOM? thats not true at all

people choose DOM because of the uniform thickness throughout.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 06:06 PM   #13
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You can't expect someone who makes maybe $15/hr and sits behind a counter all day to know much about what they are selling.

You are right, DOM is better than tube or pipe that has a welded seam. It is a great product to make cages chassis's with, I don't much care for the big variance in wall thickness that you get when you buy DOM, but that's just what happens during the production process and can't be helped. Your comment about getting someone injured or killed is totally incorrect, but those were the fears I had before I got the correct information from the company that actually makes the product and not someone off the internet. I don't use pipe anymore because the tubing bender is so much better, and tube is available in much thinner wall thickness, but if for some reason my bender broke and I had to have something bent right then I would go back to it. Pipe has been tried and tested for years around here, seen several rigs either do multiple rolls, or just hard slams with minimal damage to their cages. If it's built right there will not be a structure problem.
Yeah, why should they know what the hell they're doing at work? Strength to weight ratios and grading standards exist for a reason. This is basic information that anyone working at a metal supplier should know. If they can't tell you the difference between pipe and tube then they have no business working there.

How do you have years of experience with pipe "structural" work yet had to call a manufacturer to get specs and still either missed or completely dismissed the most important aspects? Even HREW is significantly stronger than pipe where it counts.

A flop at a few mph isn't going to damage a well designed pipe cage, but it's sure as hell not going to hold if you take a serious roll, especially at speed on road. Design doesn't matter if the material won't hold. I've busted enough sch 40 pipe doing demo work to know I sure as hell don't want a cage built out of it. Even at low speed a direct rock hit on pipe will crack it.

As for DOM, DOM IS tube. It's the same thing as welded tube it's simply put through an additional strengthening process. The wall thickness on DOM is more uniform than any other steel tube.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 06:53 PM   #14
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wall thickness variance with DOM? thats not true at all

people choose DOM because of the uniform thickness throughout.
exactly. DOM is simple a secondary process applied to HREW.

DOM means "Drawn Over Mandrel", a process that makes it a true uniform wall thinkness over the length of the tube. If anything, Pipe will have a much greater wall thinkness variance than DOM will.


back on topic, the HF bender is not made to bend stuff for cages and such. the push style bending is far less than the ideal method, and will induce more tube flattening than a typical style bender.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 07:18 AM   #15
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twistted71 - The concept you have there is a cool idea, but you are not using the bender properly .

That's not me or my video. I was just passing it along-thought it would helpsomeone get more use out of it if they already have one. I never needed to mod mine either-Actually, I only used mine a few times and that was to bend stainless flat bar for some brackets
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