Anybody use a TIG/Stick welder for Stick? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-30-2010, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
YJhobby
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Anybody use a TIG/Stick welder for Stick?

I've got a Lincoln Precision TIG 185, and have always TIG welded with it. I am now beginning to think I should get the stick welding stinger and learn how to use it so I can speed up my time spent welding.

I've honestly never needed to weld as much steel together as I'm needing on this Jeep!

My question is that since I can weld down to 5 amps or so with the TIG, shouldn't I be capable of stick welding thin metal (1/16" to 1/8" butt welds) as well? Just run the amps down low with a smaller dia. rod? I honestly hope this isn't a stupid question, I just don't know much about my machine's stick settings, or stick welding for that matter! I'm just tired of spending all my time maneuvering that torch/rod setup in awkward positions and getting crappy welds.

Any help, hints, or do's-don'ts are appreciated!


~Steve~

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowdogMarc
YJ's don't get stuck....they get temporarily impeeded in their forward progress.


I'm patiently waiting for the "foot-in-mouth" moment to end... but since I've posted, its not today
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-30-2010, 11:28 AM
mknight759
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Crappy welds may not be the machine.. I no proffesional welder but I have never had much luck welding anything thin with a stick 1/8 or less.
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-30-2010, 12:02 PM
BESRK
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The stick option on a TIG/Stick is mainly for doing thicker material although I suppose you could try to turn it down for thinner metal. Honestly, anything less than about 1/8" and I'd TIG it. Might be slow, but you'll appreciate the control and minimize "blow thru".

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #4 of 11 Old 09-30-2010, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
YJhobby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
The stick option on a TIG/Stick is mainly for doing thicker material although I suppose you could try to turn it down for thinner metal. Honestly, anything less than about 1/8" and I'd TIG it. Might be slow, but you'll appreciate the control and minimize "blow thru".
Yeah, thats pretty much what I thought. I just ran out of argon last night, and can't get any more till next paycheck... so I guess my TIG tacks will hold the floorboard in till then! It's just tough operating a torch and filler rod at full arms length up under the brake/clutch petals and only having a foot control to control the amps... I need a fingertip controller bad! Good thing I got some strong stitches in where the drivers seat attach repair was before I ran out!

~Steve~

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowdogMarc
YJ's don't get stuck....they get temporarily impeeded in their forward progress.


I'm patiently waiting for the "foot-in-mouth" moment to end... but since I've posted, its not today
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-30-2010, 02:58 PM
BESRK
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Duct tape the foot pedal to your inner thigh and squeeze your legs together..

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #6 of 11 Old 09-30-2010, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
YJhobby
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Is that easier than the indian style way of using the outside of your knee?

~Steve~

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowdogMarc
YJ's don't get stuck....they get temporarily impeeded in their forward progress.


I'm patiently waiting for the "foot-in-mouth" moment to end... but since I've posted, its not today
YJhobby is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 09-30-2010, 06:48 PM
Ironworker709
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You can TIG weld the hard to reach spots without using the pedal,,been there n done that.
As a matter of fact we had to learn how do without one on most weld tests,they won't let you have one.

Just set the heat to where it will just be hot anough to do a slow pass on the sheetmetal where needed in a bad spot.

I've been a same bad spot up under the dash welding in new floor pans in an old chevelle,my method for the pedal was to duct tape the base of the pedal to a heavy 3/8" angle stand i had in the garage up on the side of one of it's legs and C-clamped a peice of angle iron under the pedal to use as a foot rest so it would just rest on the pedal without sliding off while welding...lol...,then just put the stand/pedal where my foot could reach it just outside the door of the car while the other 1/2 of my body was in the car welding...lol

As far as stick welding sheetmetal..it can be done with 1/16" rod..but even if you get a 1/2 descent weld,it'll warp the sheetmetal to heck n back from the heat to burn even a lil 1/16" rod.

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

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The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

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post #8 of 11 Old 10-01-2010, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
YJhobby
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Sounds like I'll hold off getting the $50 specialized stinger for right now and I'll spend my money on argon and more TIG consumables! How thick of rod do you guys use with floorpans? I've only got 1/16...

~Steve~

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowdogMarc
YJ's don't get stuck....they get temporarily impeeded in their forward progress.


I'm patiently waiting for the "foot-in-mouth" moment to end... but since I've posted, its not today
YJhobby is offline  
post #9 of 11 Old 10-01-2010, 08:24 AM
Ironworker709
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If you're talking about TIG rod..it all depends on what size tungsten you're using..i generaly keep 3/32 tungsten in mine for anything light,and 1/8'' for heavy'r.

I've tried 1/16" tungsten at work welding some stainless wire fence for a motor gaurd we were fabricating,that small of a tungsten just burned up(balled up) too easy and was really too fragile for my taste.It may work ok for you,but for my taste it just didn't work out well..But then again i'm not a "pro TIGman" simply because we use stick and wirefeed more than anything on most jobs but i love the chance to do it at work when possible,most guys are scared of the cert test 6g open butt carbon root and 1 hot pass and then 309L stainless stick out on a heavy wall pipe(schedule 120) at nuclear sites...most even use 3/32" tungsten and filler rod on that instead of 1/8".

3/32" rod with 3/32 tungsten would work well,general rule of thumb i use is use the same size filler rod as the size tungsten unless maybe you're welding something real heavy and usin the "walk the cup" method.

I'd get some scrap sheetmetal and practice with heat settings before going in and welding the floorbourds so you don;t get too hot and warp then really bad on too high a heat.

I just use my MIG for any sheetmetal anymore since i have a Lincoln 180 at home,but i always use the "tack n move" method to weld in thin sheetmetal so it doesn't warp bad.

Are you butt welding the pans?..or using the overlap?

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-01-2010, 08:08 PM
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YJhobby View Post
Is that easier than the indian style way of using the outside of your knee?

Just another position..

I've got a buddy who duct tapes the foot pedal to his foot while welding up interior cages. He just jams his foot against whatever.. and hops around the shop on one foot..

I've got both a pedal and a thumb control. I use the pedal when sitting at the table and the thumb control for everything else.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #11 of 11 Old 10-01-2010, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
YJhobby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
I've got both a pedal and a thumb control. I use the pedal when sitting at the table and the thumb control for everything else.
This is the setup I'd like to get, But that thumb control is an extra expense for me currently... and probably for quite some time. More critical things to buy first!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
If you're talking about TIG rod..it all depends on what size tungsten you're using..i generaly keep 3/32 tungsten in mine for anything light,and 1/8'' for heavy'r.

...

3/32" rod with 3/32 tungsten would work well,general rule of thumb i use is use the same size filler rod as the size tungsten unless maybe you're welding something real heavy and usin the "walk the cup" method.

I'd get some scrap sheetmetal and practice with heat settings before going in and welding the floorbourds so you don;t get too hot and warp then really bad on too high a heat.

I just use my MIG for any sheetmetal anymore since i have a Lincoln 180 at home,but i always use the "tack n move" method to weld in thin sheetmetal so it doesn't warp bad.

Are you butt welding the pans?..or using the overlap?
Sorry, I've switch topics now that I remembered (got schooled) that I won't be stick welding thin stuff, just metal over 1/8"





I'm butt welding the pans in... already got them tacked in. I guess there are a few areas where it overlaps to more of a lap joint than a butt, but its all laying nicely with no warping yet. Tacks are about every 3-5".

Currently I have 1/16" tungsten and 1/16 rod. about 65 amps on the machine. Just bought some 1/8" tungsten and rod to test out. For some reason 3/32" wasn't an option at the welding store I was at.

Anyways, Most of my experience is with sheet steel and .025-.049" 4130 tubes, so the smaller stuff at perfect working height and plenty of room is what I have been used to, so I'm kinda pathetic at this awkward position stuff

~Steve~

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowdogMarc
YJ's don't get stuck....they get temporarily impeeded in their forward progress.


I'm patiently waiting for the "foot-in-mouth" moment to end... but since I've posted, its not today
YJhobby is offline  
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