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Unread 04-24-2009, 10:11 PM   #1
buckshot500
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Alternator/Welder (Now with pics!)

HOLY CRAP!!!!

I stopped in at Black's alternator today. After a quick explanation, Steve told me I was wasting my time & should just go buy a welder. Then I mentioned I wanted it to be in my jeep, so I could weld anywhere I could drive the jeep to.

I said they do make a nice setup that uses an alternator, but that it was about $1000.00. So he showed me some large frame Ford alts, & then I asked him about the Leece-Neville deal.

He brings out two monstrosities & throws 'em on the counter.

The 160 amp unit would be $200.00, & the 190 amp one would be $300.00.

He could redo a LG frame Ford for like $150.00 to be like 130-140 amps.

Then he digs under the counter & says I just remembered this thing.
It's a Leece knock off & he's not allowed to sell it because they weren't able to regulate the voltage in it. It's 220 amps! (My use requires that it not be regulated)

Only thing is, he cant get a replacement winding if I fry it. Diodes not a problem, he can replace those any time.

Then he says "I'm gonna make your whole day!" I'll rewire it the way you'll need it, & you can have it for $150.00.

I took a few minutes to think it over & pulled the trigger on it.
It'll be ready Monday afternoon, if I am off from work I'll go get it. Otherwise I'll get it one day next week.

(Now I know what your thinking, how's Bucky gonna buy something instead of getting it from the junkyard.
Well even though it's brand new, I still see it as a redneck mod, 220 amp welder in a jeep! Hells yeah!)

He said I can spin it with no load, as long as I haven't energized the field wire.

I'll need to put a switch & a rheostat on that line. The deal I'm going with, will have it removed & packed in an onboard box, with the other welding equipment. When I need it, I just throw it up on the pivot & put the belt on & tighten it up.

Start the engine & get ready to weld. Right before I strike the arc, I throw the switch. When I stop welding for a length of time greater than changing a rod, I switch off the field. This should prevent it from frying itself.

I forgot to ask him if it had a provision for A.C., but I'll find out when I pick it up. (Ooh TIG Aluminum trailside!) !Click the image to open in full size.

220 amps should be more than enough to run 5/32" E6010, & 1/8" E7018

1/8" cutting rods too.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5point1 View Post
Well after I drained the oil, I ran water through the engine to clean out the gunk. (the guy who owned before me obvioulsy didn't know how to maintain the engine).

90YJ98XJ

Last edited by buckshot500; 05-12-2009 at 09:49 PM..
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Unread 04-25-2009, 01:25 AM   #2
BlackRhino
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That's pretty cool. Let us know how it goes!
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Unread 04-25-2009, 06:14 AM   #3
buckshot500
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Originally Posted by BlackRhino View Post
That's pretty cool. Let us know how it goes!
Pics will go up the night I get it!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5point1 View Post
Well after I drained the oil, I ran water through the engine to clean out the gunk. (the guy who owned before me obvioulsy didn't know how to maintain the engine).

90YJ98XJ
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Unread 04-25-2009, 08:11 AM   #4
Happy Joe
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Just install 2 batteries and use them to weld... or go wheeling with a friend and use both batteries.
2 good batteries will let you burn about six, 1/8" or 3/32", rods before needing to be recharged. 3 good batteries will blow holes through 1/4" plate.
While its nice to be able to weld off road it is rarely done (but a life saver when you can).

I have an monster Motorola alternator under the bench; but have never really needed it enough to install it.

I carry a, capped, piece of 1.5" PVC pipe full of welding rod large jumper cables, a stinger and a #10 welding lens in a cutting goggle to weld with. These accessories get used rarely, but more often than my winch, and like my winch it gets used, mostly, for other people.
While the alternator welder (and a wire feed gun) would be nice; its a lot of expense for something that can be accomplished with less, cost, weight, bulk and trouble.

Enjoy!
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Unread 04-25-2009, 08:39 AM   #5
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the 2 battery trick works great, ive seen it in action, 3 rods to weld the front frame hanger back on the frame, and the batts started the jeeps no problem.. its been around for decades, and doesnt have the risk if fire or burning/melting your alternator...
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Unread 04-25-2009, 12:44 PM   #6
BESRK
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Make sure to do a detailed writeup with some pics if you can.. this is interesting!

I have a Premier Power Welder in my CJ5.. bought the system about 5 years ago. I've used it a few times on the trail but never on my own rig. So far, I guess I paid $1000 to be able to fix other people's rigs..
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Unread 04-25-2009, 02:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost183 View Post
the 2 battery trick works great, ive seen it in action, 3 rods to weld the front frame hanger back on the frame, and the batts started the jeeps no problem.. its been around for decades, and doesnt have the risk if fire or burning/melting your alternator...
Could the 2 battery trick be used to stick-weld while both vehicles are still running? Or would that fry the PCMs potentially?

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Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Make sure to do a detailed writeup with some pics if you can.. this is interesting!

I have a Premier Power Welder in my CJ5.. bought the system about 5 years ago. I've used it a few times on the trail but never on my own rig. So far, I guess I paid $1000 to be able to fix other people's rigs..
Never knew about that Eddie, gotta let me see that next time I'm at your shop
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Unread 04-25-2009, 03:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757 View Post
Could the 2 battery trick be used to stick-weld while both vehicles are still running? Or would that fry the PCMs potentially?



Never knew about that Eddie, gotta let me see that next time I'm at your shop
Welding with batteries, should be done with all batteries disconnected (& preferably removed to a safe location first) far enough from the batteries so the fumes produced during discharge, won't ignite.

If not welding on the same vehicle with an on board welder, then the battery should be disconnected.
My weldenator is a second unit, separate from the vehicle's charging system.
It gets mounted to weld only, & removed before flight.

I was a pro welder for 16 years, before my current job of ten years. I'll be using this to fab a bunch of stuff for my heep, more so than using it for trail rides.

Like I said, I may start a side business at some point too.

The TIG torch doesn't have a wire feeder, & would need only a small bottle of Helium or 75-25 argon mix, to weld aluminum. The alternator already puts out high frequency juice. As long as I can grab A.C. it will work.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5point1 View Post
Well after I drained the oil, I ran water through the engine to clean out the gunk. (the guy who owned before me obvioulsy didn't know how to maintain the engine).

90YJ98XJ
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Unread 04-25-2009, 06:50 PM   #9
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Well, if you are bound and determined to do the alternator welder;
remember to use diodes that can handle at least 180 volts, preferably more, (use a higher rating for increased safety factor, and to survive the inevitable voltage spikes), then install some power outlets and a hand throttle with a volt meter... to run the grinders, saws, drills, sanders, electric impact wrenches etc...

Some basic info for those interested...
http://islandcastaway.com/stuff/wind...%20Secrets.htm

Enjoy!
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...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway.

Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road.

Last edited by Happy Joe; 04-25-2009 at 07:04 PM..
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Unread 04-25-2009, 11:20 PM   #10
buckshot500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Joe View Post
Well, if you are bound and determined to do the alternator welder;
remember to use diodes that can handle at least 180 volts, preferably more, (use a higher rating for increased safety factor, and to survive the inevitable voltage spikes), then install some power outlets and a hand throttle with a volt meter... to run the grinders, saws, drills, sanders, electric impact wrenches etc...

Some basic info for those interested...
http://islandcastaway.com/stuff/wind...%20Secrets.htm

Enjoy!
I will ask them what the diodes are rated at before I take it home. Thanks for the heads up!

Already plan to put that Napa kit in that gives you a volt meter & the 110 duplex receptacle. I think it has other stuff too.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5point1 View Post
Well after I drained the oil, I ran water through the engine to clean out the gunk. (the guy who owned before me obvioulsy didn't know how to maintain the engine).

90YJ98XJ
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Unread 04-26-2009, 03:50 AM   #11
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premier welder has saved me twice. One major repair on the Rubicon and one in truckhaven when exhaust broke off.

I now have a small kit ready to do series welding with batteries. If I had the money I would love to have a alt-welder! very nice. BUT your, your probably going to end up welding other peoples stuff rather than your own. Great tool. post up pics when you get them.
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Unread 04-26-2009, 09:17 AM   #12
Jerry Bransford
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Personally I'd rather use a Readywelder which uses two 12 volt batteries in series. I looked at Premier and Mobi Weld systems which both use the alternator but the Readywelder is what I'm going for. Plus it is a MIG welder so I don't need to worry about carrying welding rods with me that can go bad.

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Unread 04-27-2009, 01:11 PM   #13
buckshot500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Personally I'd rather use a Readywelder which uses two 12 volt batteries in series. I looked at Premier and Mobi Weld systems which both use the alternator but the Readywelder is what I'm going for. Plus it is a MIG welder so I don't need to worry about carrying welding rods with me that can go bad.

That does look like a sweet kit!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5point1 View Post
Well after I drained the oil, I ran water through the engine to clean out the gunk. (the guy who owned before me obvioulsy didn't know how to maintain the engine).

90YJ98XJ
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Unread 04-27-2009, 01:15 PM   #14
buckshot500
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Well, I picked up my humongous alternator/welder today.
220 amps D.C. output, unregulated. Still need to get a rheostat, to control the voltage to the field wire terminal. This will allow me to control the amount of current to the stinger.

I asked about an A.C. tap, & he said sure it's possible but I'd have to go back inside it again.

I told him I'd bring it back for that, if I can get it to work the way I want it to.

So without further delay, I bring you WELDZILLA!

The other little guy, is the stock SI unit from my heep when I swapped the CS144 in.





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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5point1 View Post
Well after I drained the oil, I ran water through the engine to clean out the gunk. (the guy who owned before me obvioulsy didn't know how to maintain the engine).

90YJ98XJ
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Unread 04-27-2009, 01:18 PM   #15
buckshot500
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Here we can see the future location for the A.C. TIG aluminum terminal.





Well it's not a lightweight!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5point1 View Post
Well after I drained the oil, I ran water through the engine to clean out the gunk. (the guy who owned before me obvioulsy didn't know how to maintain the engine).

90YJ98XJ
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