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Unread 10-01-2011, 10:00 AM   #31
herbiehind
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lets say i want to lift 2500 lbs. the piston size , pipe size, and pump will determine pressure in system .if i increase the size (diameter) of the piston to lift the same 2500 lbs. the pressure will drop . thus safer .

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Unread 10-01-2011, 12:17 PM   #32
Finaltheorem47
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The larger the diameter of the hydraulics, the slower they operate also though (unless you up the pumps flow). If you make it too large, you'll be there all day trying to make one bend (exaggeration).
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Unread 10-01-2011, 12:50 PM   #33
herbiehind
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the pump and any valving will determine speed
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Unread 10-01-2011, 08:38 PM   #34
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herbiehind View Post
lets say i want to lift 2500 lbs. the piston size , pipe size, and pump will determine pressure in system .if i increase the size (diameter) of the piston to lift the same 2500 lbs. the pressure will drop . thus safer .
Got it.. that's one of the reasons I went with a 5" diameter cylinder.. I'd rather have more "grunt" than needed..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finaltheorem47 View Post
The larger the diameter of the hydraulics, the slower they operate also though (unless you up the pumps flow). If you make it too large, you'll be there all day trying to make one bend (exaggeration).
Understood.. however, the hydraulic pump I plan to use is a 2 stage.. faster when unloaded but with enough grunt to do the job once the pressure starts to build. If I get it wrong on the first try.. I'll adjust fire and try again (dang, that sounds expensive.. )

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Originally Posted by herbiehind View Post
the pump and any valving will determine speed
Roger that. Hope I'm close on the first try... if not, I'll stroke another check until I get it right..
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Unread 10-01-2011, 08:59 PM   #35
herbiehind
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go for dangerclose!!
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Unread 10-01-2011, 09:02 PM   #36
BESRK
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go for dangerclose!!

That's what it's gonna be the first time I pull the lever!!

Yeah.. I know I use alot of "Army Jargon" when I speak/write.. I've been "institutionalized" with 26yrs in/around the Army. My wife rolls her eyes all the time when I speak to her.. here's what she hears frequently..

"Honey, did you get that squared away?"

"Say again?.. All after beauty salon.."

"I gotta go use the Latrine."

"WTF.. over?" (every payday..)


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Unread 11-14-2011, 09:16 AM   #37
BESRK
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Okay.. Webdog's press brake rekindled my motivation to push forward with this press brake build.

So.....

I've had the 5" hydro cylinder for quite a while.. sitting on the floor bugging me. A few minutes ago, I just ordered a pair of 1.25" heims for the upper connecting link (I thought about using a cheesy tractor link but I think the higher quality heims will remain tight longer). I also ordered 1.5" dia tool steel (for the pivot pins), some thick wall DOM (for the pivot points), and some flanged bronze bushings.

I'll start dedicating some time each evening to doing the CAD drawings for all the plate I need to cut. I plan to cut most of the smaller plate pieces from scrap laying around the shop.

Sometime in the next week or so, I'll order a sheet of 1/2" and 2 sheets of 1/4" to laminate together for a 1" total thickness. The overall opening will probably end up at about 52" wide. That will allow me to do rock sliders (except for LJs) and press out 3/16" thick rear crossmembers.. among other things.

I can use my current dies to mock up everything for fit. Once I confirm the system will work properly, I'll drop the coin on the hydraulic power unit and the full length dies.

Once the pins/bushings come in, I'll start shooting some pics as I machine them to fit.
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Unread 11-14-2011, 07:12 PM   #38
scramblered
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My brother built a press brake years ago for his welding shop (since sold) and I will try to remember some of the specs. It had 2 5" cylinders and the pump was run by a 5 horse motor hooked to a hydraulic pump that was about the size of a softball. It had a 6' opening that he used to bend 3/16ths. inch skid loader buckets. I also remember it having a valve on it to prevent one side from moving without the other. For dies he just used angle iron. It worked really sweet and if you want I can try and get pictures for you from the new owner. Good luck, Dave
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Unread 11-15-2011, 06:41 PM   #39
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scramblered View Post
My brother built a press brake years ago for his welding shop (since sold) and I will try to remember some of the specs. It had 2 5" cylinders and the pump was run by a 5 horse motor hooked to a hydraulic pump that was about the size of a softball. It had a 6' opening that he used to bend 3/16ths. inch skid loader buckets. I also remember it having a valve on it to prevent one side from moving without the other. For dies he just used angle iron. It worked really sweet and if you want I can try and get pictures for you from the new owner. Good luck, Dave
Thanks Dave! Pics are always welcome as they help me visualize things. Even if I don't use a particular design, I may still extract ideas that I can use in a build.

I often say, "I'm not very smart or innovative, but I'm a very good copy cat.. "
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Unread 11-15-2011, 06:50 PM   #40
Jim1611
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Eddie have you watched this http://www.iroquoisiron.com/b48100.html It's the brake in action that you want to build.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 02:58 PM   #41
BESRK
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Quote:
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Eddie have you watched this http://www.iroquoisiron.com/b48100.html It's the brake in action that you want to build.
Jim, yep... I've watched that probably 20 times. Made the wife watch it a couple times too.


Here's a quick question for everyone.. what material would make good pivot pins for the arms? I've settled on 1.5" diameter pins and already ordered A2 Tool Steel but I'm just not sure.

I also thought about maybe 4140 Alloy or Cold Finished 8620

Any thoughts?....
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Unread 11-16-2011, 03:52 PM   #42
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You're welcome Eddie. I've watched it several times myself too.

Your pins need to be hard on the outside and have a soft center. That makes for something that wears good and has good strength. If you want to order pins that are already pre made MSC sells these http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/...atchallpartial They are hardened which makes for great wear properties but very tough to resist bending.

Also McMaster Carr has this http://www.mcmaster.com/#precision-shafts/=eyp1kq that you could make some out of. I think whatever you use you're going to need a hardened shaft to resist wear and the bushings they fit in need to be so that you can greese them too. With that much tonage pushings against them they will tend to wear.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 08:41 PM   #43
BESRK
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Thanks for the links Jim. I searched McMaster but I was searching for "pins" instead of shafts. I'll use what I have on hand for mockup and probably end up going with those MSC shafts in the end. They're already flanged on one end... I'll cut a snap ring groove in the other end..
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Unread 11-24-2011, 04:16 PM   #44
BESRK
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Been working on the CAD drawing for the past few evenings. I'm hoping to begine cutting pieces this weekend.

One thing I did was design a notch at either end of the "window". This is going to hold a strip of 1"x1" UHMW plastic which will act as bearing material for the punch plate. The plates that sandwich the punch plate will also get a layer of UHMW plastic as bearing surfaces. That should provide a good wear surface for the punch plate to ride on as it travels up and down.

Here's what I've got so far..
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Unread 11-25-2011, 09:57 AM   #45
webdog
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Looks good! If I had the patience and the coin to spend I would have done the same design. Cant wait to see this get finished.
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