$30 TJ Fold Down Tailgate (and stuck torx bolt removal) - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 11:32 AM
coyote_94yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigertrack1600m View Post
im REALLY looking forward to seeing this

i dont know how much you have in your cable hardware, but the cables I bought were $6.99ea at advance auto parts. made life easy
The part that brought the whole project cost up is those 4 small brackets with the holes. They are part of a gate lock kit and I had to buy the whole kit (@ $5 ea) to get those brackets.

I wasn't sure what length I wanted to run since I'm using different mounts so I decided to build my own cables. The cost is about the same for the hardware but the labor isn't. LOL. Have you ever tried to wrap an eye in the end of a cable? It takes a bit of practice and I don't have much.........yet.

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post #32 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 12:36 PM
wantajeep631
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Hey tigertrac the ones you bought were they meant for a truck tailgate? That's probably a much easier way to go. But Then just use those brackets like coyote has.
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post #33 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 12:46 PM
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On it! Very nice sir. Definetly like this.
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post #34 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 12:46 PM
krahnilogikal
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@ coyote:

Is that cable bare or is it wrapped in the plasticoat stuff?

words, things, stuff
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post #35 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
NalinMFG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantajeep631 View Post
Hey tigertrac the ones you bought were they meant for a truck tailgate? That's probably a much easier way to go. But Then just use those brackets like coyote has.
yes, mine are for a 99-02 silverado/sierra: $6.99ea at advance auto parts.
38536 is the model number on their package.

coyote's gate mounts are perpendicular to how mine mount. I just used a washer and a 1/2" bolt to space/secure them...dont have to worry about tiny sheet metal screws poping loose.
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post #36 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 01:14 PM
coyote_94yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantajeep631 View Post
That's an awesome set up. Can you give me a give a list of all the parts? Like what those small brackets are. I'm assuming they are for the cables? And what hardware(nuts and bolts etc.) you used. Like stainless and grades and all. Thanks I want to try this this weekend maybe. I've been wanting to do this for a while cause I have a cj tire carrier I want to fab up for a swing out.
Here are all the answers to your questions in order.
Thanks. No. I don't know. Yes. A bunch. Several.

Just kidding, here you go.

- Stanley Black Heavy Duty Gate Hinges x2 @ $5.98 ea
- 3.5" Black Safety Hasp x4 @ $3.76 ea (those small brackets you asked about)
- 1/4-20 Nutsert x18 @ $.?? ea
- 1/4-20x3/4 Stainless Flat Head Machine Screw x18 @ $.57 ea
- #10-24 Nutsert x16 @ $.?? ea
- #10-24x3/4 Stainless Flat Head Machine Screw x16 @ $.43 ea
- 5/32 Cable Thimble x4 @ $1.40 ea
- 3/16 Chain Quick Link x4 @ $1.79 ea
- 1/8 Wire Rope Clip x4 @ $.50 ea
- 1/8 Vinyl Coated Wire Rope x4ft @ $.79/ft

I don't yet know if 4 feet of cable is enough but I thought it was when I was at the store. We'll see. The black brackets are going to mount on the inside of the tailgate and the inside of the tub to put the quick links through. I thought about using "S" hooks to make it like some of the older pick-up trucks but thought they might not stay on very well while in the closed position.



I might get started on this tonight. We'll see.
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post #37 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krahnilogikal View Post
@ coyote:

Is that cable bare or is it wrapped in the plasticoat stuff?
It is coated with clear vinyl. I'll remove the clear vinyl at the ends so I can make the eyes and put two layers of heat shrink tubing over the end to keep it clean/neat and to prevent getting poked by wire strands.
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post #38 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 01:27 PM
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Great idea! Interested in seeing how this turns out.
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post #39 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 02:54 PM
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those hinges have countersink holes. Are you going to replace those hex head tex screws with a countersink screw?
How is the interior driverside cable attached? And a latch on the passenger side would take care of any rattle, if it occurs, maybe even replace the gasket on the pass side to something bigger for a snug close w/a latch ofcourse.

Great job!! I knew it could be done that cheap. I looked at all the conversions and told myself after seeing the prices...NOPE, i'll just do it myself. Nice to get a visual of someone who has..thanks!
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post #40 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 02:57 PM
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Was the length of the cables mentioned?? From eye to eye?
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post #41 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParaCAD View Post
those hinges have countersink holes. Are you going to replace those hex head tex screws with a countersink screw?
How is the interior driverside cable attached? And a latch on the passenger side would take care of any rattle, if it occurs, maybe even replace the gasket on the pass side to something bigger for a snug close w/a latch ofcourse.

Great job!! I knew it could be done that cheap. I looked at all the conversions and told myself after seeing the prices...NOPE, i'll just do it myself. Nice to get a visual of someone who has..thanks!
i plan on going to 1/4"-20 stainless countersunk bolts and nutserts...the hinge holes will have to be opened up a little bigger to accept them though(no problem).

both interior connections are just a 1/2" hole drilled into the side of the tub. i used 1 washer as a spacer to line the cable up with the lower mount.
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post #42 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
NalinMFG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParaCAD View Post
Was the length of the cables mentioned?? From eye to eye?
my 99-02 silverado cables are 15" eye to eye
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post #43 of 142 Old 07-27-2010, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigertrack1600m View Post
my 99-02 silverado cables are 15" eye to eye
thanks for the info....
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post #44 of 142 Old 07-28-2010, 08:44 PM
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It is good to see people creating fabricating up their own version of the drop down tailgate kit.

The low price point has to make you smile as well. I too have walked down the isles of the big box stores and thought if I were to use those hinges I could knock ~$30 out of the cost of my kit. However, I wanted to use as many off the shelf Jeep parts as I could.

In my testing I found that not having the upper right toggle latch on the tailgate the hard top will rattle against the glass when driving on wash board roads.

Troy

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post #45 of 142 Old 07-30-2010, 01:14 AM
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I was thinking the same thing. The rough roads here will give the unsecured side a heck of a time with the hard top.

I'm trying to figure out a way to use one of my bearclaw latches. I have a few left from my racing days, so if I can figure out a way to attach the second latch release to the OE handle I'm good!

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