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-   -   24 x 20 ft Workover tubing shop build. (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/24-x-20-ft-workover-tubing-shop-build-1437161/)

Ezalycasaid 11-11-2012 08:42 PM

24 x 20 ft Workover tubing shop build.
 
Im wanting to build an A frame metal carport like this one, except 18 wide and with thicker materials. What would be the better/best/overkill material for this 2.5 x 1.5 x .120 wall rectangular tubing, 2.0 x 1.5 x .120 wall rectangular tubing, 2.0 x .120 wall square tubing, or 2.5 x .120 wall square tubing? All hot rolled. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=WbBo0I2-cX4

BPJOOP93 11-12-2012 07:41 AM

Why not just build it out of wood, and cover it with steel?

Ezalycasaid 11-12-2012 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BPJOOP93 (Post 14442576)
Why not just build it out of wood, and cover it with steel?

Wood needs concrete underneath it so it doesnt shift. Also, metals portable, so I can take it down, sleeve it and move it when we sell our house. The metal one I can easily extend out and make the caport longer. Plus the wood one would be more expensive with all the truss Id have to make. I can make the entire 20x18 carport for $800. The wood one is 800 without sidding and truss, then id be in the wood one another $1400 for concrete.
.

Ezalycasaid 11-13-2012 10:24 PM

I got 300 feet of 2-3/8 x 3/16 wall for 300 today.I was thinking run 2-1/2 x 1" x 14gauge rectangular tubing as the base so I only have to notch the top of the legs. Is 2-1/2 x 1" x 14 gauge rectangular hrew tubing stronger enough to take the weight and not bend with that heavy of round tubing, or should I use thicker walled rectangular?

Motorcharge 11-14-2012 06:39 PM

x2 on wood. Steel tube is total overkill.

You can frame it with wood studs for significantly cheaper and you can use treated lumber for the bottom plate on the framing and you don't need a concrete foundation for it if it's framed correctly. 58 foot of wall, you're only looking at about $190 to frame the walls. You could do one in wood for under $500 easily.

Slap some OSB on the inside and outside, throw in some insulation, tyvek, and cheap siding and you'll have a significantly better structure for far less time, money, and effort.

Even if you want to go with metal you're far better off doing it with metal studs.

Ezalycasaid 11-14-2012 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Motorcharge (Post 14457282)
x2 on wood. Steel tube is total overkill.

You can frame it with wood studs for significantly cheaper and you can use treated lumber for the bottom plate on the framing and you don't need a concrete foundation for it if it's framed correctly. 58 foot of wall, you're only looking at about $190 to frame the walls. You could do one in wood for under $500 easily.

Slap some OSB on the inside and outside, throw in some insulation, tyvek, and cheap siding and you'll have a significantly better structure for far less time, money, and effort.

Even if you want to go with metal you're far better off doing it with metal studs.

Right now OSB is about 26 bucks a sheet at the cheapest out here. Thats 200 per wall if done inside and out. The actuall frame/walls 2x4s wouldnt be bad with wood, but not moveable. Another issue is designing and building the truss for wood frame roof that will span 18'. Theres a decent amount of money in the truss. Im actually gonna use wood 2x4s as purlins. Id also have to figure out how to put the truss on top of walls after there built, with the way Im wanting to build this Ill build the frame and roof together and then stand it up on the base and weld them in place. That way I only need someones help for one day.

Motorcharge 11-15-2012 04:26 PM

Good god, where are you looking at OSB at? It's under $10 a sheet here...

Ezalycasaid 11-15-2012 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Motorcharge (Post 14461763)
Good god, where are you looking at OSB at? It's under $10 a sheet here...

Thats what it was before that storm down south, but then it jumped to 22 a sheet, then with the Storm that hit the NE now its 26 a sheet here. (Priced at true value, lowes, home depot, sutherlands and 84 lumber.) I thought about wood 2x4s and osb a while back but then priced everything and backed out of it. The main reason for me going with the huge tubing is because it was only 1dollar a foot and can hold up to some SERIOUS force. Just for my particular situation tubing was cheaper. Its also cheaper for me to sleeve 2-7/8s over it for 1.50 a foot. If I wanna move it later.

mylittlecj5 11-19-2012 05:38 AM

About 3 years ago I had a 18x21 carport with 8 foot sides (1 foot taller than normal) installed at my house for a total of $700. Then add your choice of materials to enclose it. I did mine with a 4' lean-to on one side and a 6' lean-to off the back for a little more room and I only had about $1800 all told with electrical and everything. Flat sides would be considerably cheaper.
Took the whole thing down when we moved and set it up at the new house (without the lean-tos this time).

Ezalycasaid 11-30-2012 03:27 PM

Ok so I got some actual numbers. Its going to be 19ft wide by 20ft long, by 7-1/2ft tall at the sides and 12ft tall at the peek. Made some tube gussets at the top or trusses if u will, 3ft long and sides 2ft long. It took me 13hrs but I hand notched 80 notches, made 80 cuts, and so far welded a 1/4 of them. Using a chop saw, grinder and cutoff wheel. They could probably just have supported themselves without the tube gussets but I like overkill. I still have to buy and burry some railroad ties and leave them sticking out 2"s.Then buy some 3/8" x 3" wide steel plate as the base to put on top of the railroad ties.Screw them down to the railroad ties. From there I still have to cut 4ft tube lengths and use them to tie the frame pieces together laterally. Then Ill put some 2x4x20ft long wooden studs to anchor the metal roofing to running laterally on top of the frame. Anyway heres some pics of the progress. First pic is of the top eve gussets, second is of the sides (I know that one of the side notches arent welded, however the bottom side of it is, and that side will be welded tomorow), and third is of the overall size.


http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1354062061http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1354062079http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1354062089

Ezalycasaid 02-18-2013 10:24 PM

7 Attachment(s)
Been a while since Ive posted on here. Heres the progress. Ive been really slow with the build due to tax's, and not working alot.

schitzangiggles 02-21-2013 05:51 PM

Make sure to run diagonal bracing From the ends to keep the sheer loads imposed by the wind from pushing it over.
Other than that lookin great! I has a jealous...

Motorcharge 02-21-2013 06:26 PM

Looking good.

And GOD DAMN that is one crunchy XJ. :eek:

Ezalycasaid 02-27-2013 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Motorcharge (Post 15012517)
Looking good.

And GOD DAMN that is one crunchy XJ. :eek:

Thanks. Lol its a toyota four runner. And yes its a cherry one owner mall crawler.:D

Ezalycasaid 02-27-2013 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schitzangiggles (Post 15012285)
Make sure to run diagonal bracing From the ends to keep the sheer loads imposed by the wind from pushing it over.
Other than that lookin great! I has a jealous...

Will do. I will also pour a concrete slab with the piers in the slab, and with rebar going through the concrete piers I have down now. Itll be pretty anchored down. Ill rebar the concrete slab every 2ft, and Im useing 4"s of 4000psi mix. Should be plenty strong.


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