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FS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitSavvy Billet LED Tail LightsSavvy FOX IFP 4" Lift Shocks in Stock

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Unread 09-08-2013, 05:55 PM   #1
Necromancer_tat
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Uptravel

How much up travel do you have? I have just slightly over 4" of up travel before I have frame to steering/trackbar interference. That's on 3 different Jeeps. 2 have coilovers and 1 has leaf springs.

I have an 84 CJ7 on 35s with leaf springs, a 90 YJ with coil overs in the front and coils in the rear, 3 link/4link, and a 98 TJ with coilovers all the way around, radius arms and track bar front, and 4 link rear.

Without getting ridiculous on the ride height, what kinda tricks can be used to get more up travel?

I'm looking for creative frame notching, link bending, track bar mounting, steering link relocating, combinations of all of the above....

Pictures and smart advice are welcome!

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Unread 09-09-2013, 02:02 PM   #2
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Im at 5.5ish uptravel and 10" down in the front. Shooting for 21" frame to ground. Im trying to stay low at it has been a real challenge especially if stretching. The other challenge is I didn't want to do a simple notch on the frame. If I were to do it again I would make relief cuts right above the bend in the frame and run the front portion straight from the bend instead of having it turn down. Ive already redone my shock hoops 3 times so don't really feel like redoing again. So far what I have done is section the bottom of the frame from the bend forward. I took an inch out and grafted the bottom back on. This allows the tubing to look proper. I then mounted a 3/4" plate under the highsteer arms and mounted the drag link and tierod under that. They are spaced a bit further down so the tierod is about an inch under the steering arm. I don't know how people mount theirs above. The trackbar has several bends in it to snake over the diff and under the frame. One of the biggest offenders is full passenger stuff with steering full lock to the right. The drag link will rise and meet the frame.


Posted this pic on another thread. This is almost full bump. This is a pvc mockup and how it wound up. You can see the frame is chopped by the shape of the oblong hole. The plate on the bottom of the arm is hard to make out because it is the same color as the arm but it pushes the tierod mounting out to help with ackermann angle and drops it an inch or so. The drag link had to be mounted lower to keep from interfering with the TR as they are overlapping. Also this helps with the full lock to passenger when that side is stuffed. using a JK steering box with a custom pitman that bends up and over the tierod and full bump. That was the third one I had to make. You can see the track bar bending over the diff. Its deceiving in the pic but the axle end bend does keep the rod end out of the frame. The frame side trackbar mount sits tightly between the shock mount and the tierod allowing it to sink between the two at full bump even when steering lock to lock. Even with dropping the steering links down they are well above the midline of the axle assembly.
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Unread 09-09-2013, 02:11 PM   #3
Necromancer_tat
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Thanks! So would it be reasonable to assume that if I can manage to get 6" of up travel then that would be about maxed out without tube framing the front end of my Jeep?
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Unread 09-09-2013, 02:17 PM   #4
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Nice ninja edit! That front end does seem really complex, I was hoping to go with something simpler and more straight forward. Thanks for giving me even more ideas! The frame shave looks nice and clean too btw. That looks like a 9" front axle, what outers are you running?
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Unread 09-09-2013, 02:24 PM   #5
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Solid axle "C"s and stock 60 outers. When I was putting parts together I figured I could always swap the outers later unlike the "C"s but with all the work to setup the steering this thinking isn't as wise as I thought. If you tube the front half then you will have little to no issues getting the uptravel you want. Make sure your axle assembly is 66"+ wide. My 36" tire rubs on the grill at full flex and at full lock.

edit: oh "without tubing front" yeah I think you could get there if you really tried. Bringing the frame straight forward would gain you a bit. You can always notch as well.
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