Yep, been driving on this since, had it aligned on my buddys rack, and haven't touched it since.
Design wise, it's OK, and was a great learning experience. Straight links sound good on paper but if the OEM and most aftermarkets use a bent track bar, they must be up to the task. Combining the straight drag link and WJ knuckle will cost you uptravel, but, my other main hangup is the tie rod at the pitman arm, and that's with the drag link on top of the pitman, so it's castle nut/tie rod clearance. The frame notch I have gives the track bar the clearance it needs up and to the point that the TR/pitman would hit, no reason to notch further than that. So clearly, a combination of bends that compress together must package tighter than the straight links can, because compared to say the Currie setup you wouldn't need any of the hack stuff I did, and with the driver side TRE flipped, most of your tie rod is higher than this is anyway, because XJ/TJ knuckles TRE tab sits higher than the WJ does, flip for flip XJ/TJ wins. The small amount of drag link below the passenger knuckle is the difference.
Mus say, it will take quite the beating, I refer to the tie rod as 'my other bumper'. Didn't bend until I blew my winch trying to pull this thing over a downed tree, now it's just a little higher clearance. I have 1" solid rod to sleeve it with, but really, it was stupidity that bent this one, so the benefit to weight probably isn't there for most of the time I drive it.
My main mistake was tie rod to passenger coil clearance. They rub. I think I could move the TB out about 1/2" with different misalignment spacers, or maybe a spacer and 1.6" johnny joint, but it barely touches so I haven't even done anything about it. I knew when I built it I had to space out past it, just simply didn't leave enough room.
Also, cutting that frame side TB mount off is a royal pain in the ***.
Here's a great view of it, and because I just today fired this motor for the first time.
Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat
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ha! Nice sig. Mod burn.