TJ: hp30, WJ knuckles, new Track Bar - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 82 Old 02-12-2013, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
Ben
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Did a little higher speed testing down one of our local washed out gravel roads.
It seems that it doesn't return to center as good as it once was, which made me realize I didn't do a final check on caster at ride height.

But I did test the flex, I'm very happy with my (only) 10" travel shocks.
This was light enough in the left rear that with a little push I could lift the tire off the ground.





The right rear just barely touches the back of the flare, but that bumpstop was more compressed than the front right shown.





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post #77 of 82 Old 04-15-2014, 03:15 PM
Necromancer_tat
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Nice werk! What if any improvements have you made since? Are you still wheeling the same set up? If so what would you change?
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post #78 of 82 Old 04-17-2014, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, been driving on this since, had it aligned on my buddys rack, and haven't touched it since.
Design wise, it's OK, and was a great learning experience. Straight links sound good on paper but if the OEM and most aftermarkets use a bent track bar, they must be up to the task. Combining the straight drag link and WJ knuckle will cost you uptravel, but, my other main hangup is the tie rod at the pitman arm, and that's with the drag link on top of the pitman, so it's castle nut/tie rod clearance. The frame notch I have gives the track bar the clearance it needs up and to the point that the TR/pitman would hit, no reason to notch further than that. So clearly, a combination of bends that compress together must package tighter than the straight links can, because compared to say the Currie setup you wouldn't need any of the hack stuff I did, and with the driver side TRE flipped, most of your tie rod is higher than this is anyway, because XJ/TJ knuckles TRE tab sits higher than the WJ does, flip for flip XJ/TJ wins. The small amount of drag link below the passenger knuckle is the difference.
Mus say, it will take quite the beating, I refer to the tie rod as 'my other bumper'. Didn't bend until I blew my winch trying to pull this thing over a downed tree, now it's just a little higher clearance. I have 1" solid rod to sleeve it with, but really, it was stupidity that bent this one, so the benefit to weight probably isn't there for most of the time I drive it.

My main mistake was tie rod to passenger coil clearance. They rub. I think I could move the TB out about 1/2" with different misalignment spacers, or maybe a spacer and 1.6" johnny joint, but it barely touches so I haven't even done anything about it. I knew when I built it I had to space out past it, just simply didn't leave enough room.

Also, cutting that frame side TB mount off is a royal pain in the ***.

Here's a great view of it, and because I just today fired this motor for the first time.

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ha! Nice sig. Mod burn.
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post #79 of 82 Old 04-17-2014, 03:41 PM
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Sounds pretty good, I'm assuming it still needs some tuning or sensors to be hooked up so it will idle normal?
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post #80 of 82 Old 04-17-2014, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat View Post
Sounds pretty good, I'm assuming it still needs some tuning or sensors to be hooked up so it will idle normal?
Brake boost port was a wide open vaccuum leak, it was missing a cylinder cause an injector was half plugged in... yeah it's a lot smoother already, and idles way nicer now.
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post #81 of 82 Old 12-10-2015, 09:40 AM
26679cj5
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Is it possible to keep the factory frame side trackbar mount when doing this?

Frame swap/body reconditioning/buildup thread: http://www.mountaineeroffroad.com/sh...1146#post51146
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post #82 of 82 Old 12-10-2015, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 26679cj5 View Post
Is it possible to keep the factory frame side trackbar mount when doing this?
I wouldn't think so, somebody else might know.
If you're on top of the pitman with the drag link like mine the stock frame side mount seems like it would be too low.
My track bar barely clears the diff, and touches the passenger spring sometimes.
It should have been another 1/2" forward on the axle end, and that's with the coil centered on the tube.
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