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Unread 01-25-2013, 09:28 AM   #61
MisfitSeven
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I'm still trying to figure out why that pop can is on your frame. Definitely fish plate where you notched the frame.

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Unread 01-25-2013, 09:53 AM   #62
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I'm still trying to figure out why that pop can is on your frame. Definitely fish plate where you notched the frame.
Looks like a brake fluid catch can to me.
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Unread 01-25-2013, 09:54 AM   #63
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It's an empty Sly Fox 113 IPA, for catching brake fluid. I like canned beer.

I'm considering revisiting the notch. I should have made it a little longer for the tie rod. Measure twice...

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Unread 01-25-2013, 10:30 AM   #64
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You can always cut out more and plate the section....no big deal.
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Unread 01-25-2013, 02:15 PM   #65
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threw the stock springs in, so I could put tires on & do a driveway alignment.

center of hub to flare:
21.5" rear
18" front
so Currie 3" progressives are on order next friday. should give me 1/2" of rake for toolboxes & a cooler.
this is about 1" from bumpstops. so hopefully 4" of uptravel, a little under 6" of down.
95-1/2" wheelbase.

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Unread 01-25-2013, 02:16 PM   #66
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also. track bar hits frame at the same exact time as the tie rod hits the nut on the bottom of the pitman arm TRE. so notching for the track bar gets me nothing. I'll just plate over it & be done with it.

So. If you want to stay low. You probably don't want crossover high steer.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 10:27 AM   #67
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^If I notch frame for the drag link, that only gains me another 1/2" of uptravel before the tie rod hits the bottom of the pitman arm. Only thing I can think of is that when I notched the insides of the WJ arm to re-clock it, I didn't score it deep enough, so I'm going to take it back off and check it out... Maybe the pitman arm isn't as far onto the steering box as it could be.
edit - I'm not giving up on it, but for 1/2" it doesn't seem worth it. If it gets me an inch or two more then yea I'll go for it.
I like that idea for the frame side LCAs. The first day I had this thing running I got stuck on a log - hung on the front LCA...



http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREOFF.html

No they're bigger than stock Jeep stuff. and 7/8-18" thread, where I think the OEM stuff is a metric thread count.
If the tie rod hits the bottom of the pitman arm, something is wrong. I set this stuff up all the time and do my very best to keep that from happening.

Also, the easier way to do all of this is to make the draglink with axle centered at ride height. Then make a trackbar the same length. After you land it on the axle, bring it up parallel to the draglink, support it there and then float mounts over to it.

I do a lot of mock up before I get anything burned in solid and that includes perches, mounts, gussets, tabs, brackets or whatever. I do all of my stuff just tacked together so I can move it around as needed. When I'm done, I pull it apart and do all of the welding at once with the axle on jackstands so I can turn it over as needed and then get under the rig to burn in all the mounts.

For the record, I didn't invent that axle side trackbar mount, but I've perfected the crap out of it. It is my go to solution for higher steer.

Most of this is just patience and willingness to cut something loose and move it. After that, it's just some steel and bits of stuff to get what you want.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 11:31 AM   #68
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Yeah, the frame side TB mount was tacked on, cut off, tacked again, cut off and butchered, then tacked a 3rd time. I did not do what you said about making the bar first, that's good to know... now...

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If the tie rod hits the bottom of the pitman arm, something is wrong. I set this stuff up all the time and do my very best to keep that from happening.
Any guesses as to what it could be? I have the drag link TRE on top on both the knuckle & the pitman, I have the tie on top of the knuckles.
The durango steering box is in the OEM location, I checked the WJ arm a few times, the first time I put it on, the splines weren't modified enough, it was binding up. I was able to get it another 1/2" or so onto the box. It's up nice and tight now.
The only thing I can say is, the amount of bumpstop to clear 35s on stock fenders, clear the track bar to the frame, and clear the tie rod to the pitman arm is the same, so it seems like that's the "right" amount.
That's 4" of uptravel...

Another though. Do your setups have the tie rod squeeze behind the arm? I have the offset TREs for the tie rod, maybe that forward movement, combined with the axle being moved slightly forward is what hosed me.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 01:11 PM   #69
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Quote:
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also. track bar hits frame at the same exact time as the tie rod hits the nut on the bottom of the pitman arm TRE. so notching for the track bar gets me nothing. I'll just plate over it & be done with it.

So. If you want to stay low. You probably don't want crossover high steer.
You need to check the tie rod and trackbar at full articulation. Due to the spring perch and bumpstops being inside the tire a fair bit, as you pivot off the bumpstop, the inner C will rise higher than the bump stop which will drive the trackbar into the frame hard and you need to check it at full right turn.

Steering Axis Inclination dictates that as the knuckles move outward, the steering arm rises which will move the draglink higher at full turns on the inboard side of the turn. Or put another way, full right is highest for right side, full left is highest for the left side.

Pull the springs, jack right side up against the hard bump, put shock in other side to stop droop, turn hard right and see what hits. If you are touching at full stuff, you will be notching or adding bumpstop.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 01:15 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
Yeah, the frame side TB mount was tacked on, cut off, tacked again, cut off and butchered, then tacked a 3rd time. I did not do what you said about making the bar first, that's good to know... now...



Any guesses as to what it could be? I have the drag link TRE on top on both the knuckle & the pitman, I have the tie on top of the knuckles.
The durango steering box is in the OEM location, I checked the WJ arm a few times, the first time I put it on, the splines weren't modified enough, it was binding up. I was able to get it another 1/2" or so onto the box. It's up nice and tight now.
The only thing I can say is, the amount of bumpstop to clear 35s on stock fenders, clear the track bar to the frame, and clear the tie rod to the pitman arm is the same, so it seems like that's the "right" amount.
That's 4" of uptravel...

Another though. Do your setups have the tie rod squeeze behind the arm? I have the offset TREs for the tie rod, maybe that forward movement, combined with the axle being moved slightly forward is what hosed me.
I will put the tie rod down lower that most will to get the uptravel I need and it will typically be right under the body of the TRE with the tires straight ahead at full stuff. I work off of hard bump to get all that dialed in. If I don't get the uptravel I want I start flattening out the pitman arm and have actually notched the steering gear mount to get the nut to swing over that far. It's a game of patience and perserverance.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 02:10 PM   #71
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Pull the springs, jack right side up against the hard bump, put shock in other side to stop droop, turn hard right and see what hits. If you are touching at full stuff, you will be notching or adding bumpstop.
I found the issue you mention - right tire full stuff, right steering lock, drag link needs tons more clearance at the frame, than just full bump does - I already notched for that. I need to add more room at the frame for the track bar though.

Quote:
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I will put the tie rod down lower that most will to get the uptravel I need and it will typically be right under the body of the TRE with the tires straight ahead at full stuff. I work off of hard bump to get all that dialed in. If I don't get the uptravel I want I start flattening out the pitman arm and have actually notched the steering gear mount to get the nut to swing over that far. It's a game of patience and perserverance.
I was going to say I can't flatten the pitman or it will hit frame, but it sounds like you notch for that too.
Now you got me thinking maybe I could use the wagoneer pitman arm. I could probably warm up the WJ arm, but I'm not set up to be flattening it.

Thanks for the info.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 02:24 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
I found the issue you mention - right tire full stuff, right steering lock, drag link needs tons more clearance at the frame, than just full bump does - I already notched for that. I need to add more room at the frame for the track bar though.



I was going to say I can't flatten the pitman or it will hit frame, but it sounds like you notch for that too.
Now you got me thinking maybe I could use the wagoneer pitman arm. I could probably warm up the WJ arm, but I'm not set up to be flattening it.

Thanks for the info.
If you flatten the WJ pitman, it will probably wind up too long. When I start flattening arms, I move back to the TJ OEM pitman and it will get longer as it gets flatter.
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Unread 02-10-2013, 11:15 AM   #73
WKdeuce
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Got the Currie 3" springs, and a pair of 10" travel edelbrocks bnib from a friend.
I've got 4.5" up, and 5" down.
The shock stops the axle right as the spring starts to get loose.



tried to get the same angle as the one above, but I sold the hardtop so it's not exact...
This is with both my toolboxes in the back.
The only weight not in it is a cooler of beverages and 190lbs of dude.



The steering wheel is a hair off, but I've got a buddy who can get it on a rack and tell me if my alignment is spot on or not. "close enough" for now.



Done.

(for now)
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Unread 02-11-2013, 08:01 AM   #74
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So.....how's it drive? Comparison of before and after?
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Unread 02-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #75
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So.....how's it drive? Comparison of before and after?
On the road, good, it doesn't wander, no dead spots. The tires are much wider than what I was running, so a lot of the driving feel changed from them.
I want to try some other settings on the sway bar, the last hole is softer than OEM, but still much more firm than a disconnected Jeep.

I need to get it into the woods without snow everywhere before I can really comment on how it performs.
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