Notching the frame isn't tough and would gain you some room. Maybe you should reconsider it? You're doing this for travel so you might as well maximize it. Sway bar link mounts will be tricky but doing all of this then losing your sway bar wouldn't be an option for me and I doubt it is for you.
As for the frame side LCA mounts--do a little "beef and trim." Cut or order some 2" x 3/16" weld washers with a 9/16" center hole and bolt them up. Tack them in, remove the bolt and arm and weld them home. Trim off all the excess around it so you're left with a ~5/16" contact surface and smooth it all out. You just gained some clearance and are plenty thick where you need it. I did that to my rig when I ran the stock mounts and have done it to another one....works well.
^If I notch frame for the drag link, that only gains me another 1/2" of uptravel before the tie rod hits the bottom of the pitman arm. Only thing I can think of is that when I notched the insides of the WJ arm to re-clock it, I didn't score it deep enough, so I'm going to take it back off and check it out... Maybe the pitman arm isn't as far onto the steering box as it could be.
edit - I'm not giving up on it, but for 1/2" it doesn't seem worth it. If it gets me an inch or two more then yea I'll go for it.
I like that idea for the frame side LCAs. The first day I had this thing running I got stuck on a log - hung on the front LCA...
Originally Posted by GMBNT42
Where did you get these? Do they work with regular tie rods like the stock one or zj tie rod? Link?
track bar = 36"
drag link = 34"
I need to move the frame side of the track bar in a little bit...
Are you using these?
I am not using those TREs.
If you only have to notch your frame for an inch or less, then that's less material you need to remove. That's less work to do, plus it will keep the strength of your frame. The fish plating will just be for peace of mind.
Will the Heim joint interfere with your coil spring if you move it over two inches? Maybe you can build a gusset off the inner C and over to the coil mount, then up to hold the Heim in place.
The joint itself might not, but it would have to push forward quite a bit for any kind of mount there, and then it's into the drag link at left steering lock. I cut a coil in half so I could mock it up at bump, but with coil in for clearance (and not kill myself). I can trim the inside of the frame side mount, and bring it in at least an inch. If I'm an inch off in length, it's not gonna be the end of the world for me.
Looking forward to getting paid friday so I can get a pair of coils down at Quadratec, and see where this sits. JK OME 2" lift coils are 120# and 20" extended. The low rate should give the hockey pucks quite the workout.
Now... lower the drivers side of the axle to its lower limit while leaving the passenger side on the bumpstop... then turn full right.
After that, then you can say you don't need to modify the frame...
With that, I was loosing like 2" more inches of uptravel to the draglink. Would have needed like 5" of bumpstop.
So I cut a big chunk out, but only for the drag link not the track bar. It's probably bigger than it needed to be but oh well.
The TB and DL didn't come out perfectly parallel, but they're 35" and 34" respectively. Close enough.
I now have 11.5" between the coil perches compressed, and 21" extended. So just under 10" of travel. Hopefully ride height is close to the middle of that.
waiting on 2 jam nuts, a 6" 9/16ths bolt, rotors, and a high pressure PS line, coming in the mail.
probably going to get the 3" currie springs, and 10" travel bilsteins. I don't even think I'm going to ford tower the front, I found a post top 10" travel shock that measures out pretty good.
Make sure you weld on reinforcement plates on both sides of the frame rail where you notched out with some 3/16" stock. Otherwise your leaving yourself susceptible to major damage from a potentially hard front impact.