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Unread 01-10-2013, 12:15 PM   #31
MisfitSeven
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That is my flattened drop pitman arm I made in the first pic. It is longer than the WJ arm.

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Unread 01-11-2013, 07:37 AM   #32
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I have 2 options.
- add bumpstop, roughly 2 hockey pucks worth, but the coil buckets are lower than stock, so it's only maybe 1" of bumpstop over the stock height of the perch.
- put bends in the tie rod & drag link.

It's a clearance with the passenger side frame rail. I entertained notching it, but it'd be a big notch...
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Unread 01-11-2013, 09:47 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce
I have 2 options.
- add bumpstop, roughly 2 hockey pucks worth, but the coil buckets are lower than stock, so it's only maybe 1" of bumpstop over the stock height of the perch.
- put bends in the tie rod & drag link.

It's a clearance with the passenger side frame rail. I entertained notching it, but it'd be a big notch...
Pics?
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Unread 01-13-2013, 09:35 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
I have 2 options.
- add bumpstop, roughly 2 hockey pucks worth, but the coil buckets are lower than stock, so it's only maybe 1" of bumpstop over the stock height of the perch.
- put bends in the tie rod & drag link.

It's a clearance with the passenger side frame rail. I entertained notching it, but it'd be a big notch...
Your coil buckets are LOWER than stock? Pics?

You need to add 2 hockey pucks worth of bumpstop? That's basically 3"........pics details? Is this because of trying to go with a hi steer setup?

If that's the case, I honestly think your causing more issues that your solving with hi steer. I think your better off stayin with stock steering, and moving over the stock single sheer trackbar mount as we discussed earlier and then going with the TJS Currie or 126 JKS trackbar.........but with hi steer you're........

A. Severly limiting uptravel since your going to have the frame rail in the way now.

B. limiting options on your swaybar setup. Passenger side link is going to be an issue, especially if you want to do something like an AR or Swaloc setup.....the end link is going to be too short on that side.

Your only doing a few inch SA lift right? Keep steering and pitman arm stock, move over the stock frame side trackbar mount for the Currie TJS trackbar and you should be good. If you want to garentee no bumpstopping then modify the front upper shock towers and outboard the rears and your done.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 10:12 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
You need to add 2 hockey pucks worth of bumpstop? That's basically 3"........
Hockey pucks are 1" thick.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 10:15 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Hockey pucks are 1" thick.
Still 2" bumpstopping...........for 2" of suspension lift?
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Unread 01-13-2013, 01:17 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Your only doing a few inch SA lift right? Keep steering and pitman arm stock, move over the stock frame side trackbar mount for the Currie TJS trackbar and you should be good. If you want to garentee no bumpstopping then modify the front upper shock towers and outboard the rears and your done.
You do that on yours, if that's what you feel is the way to go. The ship has sailed for me on stock steering. you have a lot of opinions on what I'm doing wrong. That's fine. I stand to learn something from everyone.

A - yes. the irony is not lost on me. I cut the frame side track bar bracket off so I could gain uptravel over a "stock" or bolt-on setup. Now the axle end of the bar is hitting the passenger side of the frame, instead of the cover hitting the frame side. Trial and error. I'm learning a lot sipping a cold beer and staring at this. The other side of that is, I'm likely going to need to limit uptravel to keep 35" tires out of the stock fenders until I come back around to cutting them off, or whatever.

B - Sway bar brackets are long gone. Well I cut them off for reuse. See pictures. They will come back to party once the others have fallen into place.

My coil brackets are 1/4" plate (maybe 3/16"?) flat on the axle tube. They are what they are, I burned them home yesterday. If I had to guess, they're 1"ish lower than stock.





Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
Pics?
Thanks for hanging with me.
Here is the setup at what should be close to ride height.
14" from the top of the coil to the bottom of the perch, 7" of clearance between bumpstops, which I'll need to limit to 3".

I guess it's Blaine that invented this location for the trackbar - Imatation = flattery.
It's just tacked, once I stare at it a while longer I'll burn it home too.





Here's full compression.
Subtract the same 4" of added bumpstop, and this will be sitting on the stops.
It looks like there's more room than there is, once you turn the wheel to the right, it raises the drag link a bit, if I go much higher it'd hit. I might bend the drag link a bit, I can get a bit more uptravel if I do. Another 1/2" or so then the tie rod hits the pitman arm.





Here's what might be full drop, but the awesome PVC pipes pulled apart, so it might bind a little before this...
I dunno.
Almost 12" between the stops, subtract the same 4", and it looks like 8" of travel.



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Unread 01-13-2013, 05:51 PM   #38
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Great job so far! I would like to see your axle side track bar move down a little less than an inch. It should be the same length and angle (parallel) as your drag link. In sure you know that already, but it looks just a hair too high on your axle. That should also help your track bar hitting the frame as well. I hope I'm not too late posting this and you haven't burned that on for good yet.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 05:58 PM   #39
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Also, if you aren't going to double shear the frame side mount for your track bar, you should have a big washer on the bolt side. Just in case the Heim fails and the joint pops off the ball. This will keep the Heim in place at least if it does fail.

Whether you knew that or not, not everyone does.

Keep it up.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 06:05 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
You do that on yours, if that's what you feel is the way to go. The ship has sailed for me on stock steering. you have a lot of opinions on what I'm doing wrong. That's fine. I stand to learn something from everyone.

A - yes. the irony is not lost on me. I cut the frame side track bar bracket off so I could gain uptravel over a "stock" or bolt-on setup. Now the axle end of the bar is hitting the passenger side of the frame, instead of the cover hitting the frame side. Trial and error. I'm learning a lot sipping a cold beer and staring at this. The other side of that is, I'm likely going to need to limit uptravel to keep 35" tires out of the stock fenders until I come back around to cutting them off, or whatever.

B - Sway bar brackets are long gone. Well I cut them off for reuse. See pictures. They will come back to party once the others have fallen into place.

My coil brackets are 1/4" plate (maybe 3/16"?) flat on the axle tube. They are what they are, I burned them home yesterday. If I had to guess, they're 1"ish lower than stock.
A. Im just telling you what your going to run into. You said your goal was not to bumpstop. Your only doing a 2" suspension lift. Yet your now forced to do a 2" bumpstop. By what you yourself said you wanted to accomplish, I don't think its now possible.

B. High Steer steering setups pretty much garentee your going to be very limited on having a functional sway bar I believe too. And its all due to the passenger side knuckle now.

Im not critiquing your setup.....you do what works for you, but I see you going through all this trouble and your not going to hit your expressed goals. If you do, its going to be a ton more work I think at the very least. I think all of your goals could have been accomplished with a stock steering setup and with a lot less work for the same results. I toyed with the idea of a hi steer setup as well, but came to the quick conclusion that for a small suspension lift its just has no advantages over the current design. If your running 35's with stock fenders though, your going to have to run significant bumpstopping regardless with only 2" of suspension lift regardless.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 06:26 PM   #41
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Hmm, there isn't any way you could run the drag link TRE at the knuckle under the knuckle, is there? Maybe with another offset TRE perhaps? That would help with your bump stop issue.

Your new bump pad on your axle looks shorter than the stock one. Now that doesn't seem so bad, does it?
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Unread 01-13-2013, 06:50 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
Great job so far! I would like to see your axle side track bar move down a little less than an inch.
I did that, probably as you were writing it. As it moves down though, it moves around the C, and starts to get into where it'd interfere with the coil. I moved it maybe 1/2".
As I stared at it I realized I could get part of the ruff stuff axle end bracket into the mix. Double shear makes me feel a little better about mounting it on the C.




Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
If your running 35's with stock fenders though, your going to have to run significant bumpstopping regardless with only 2" of suspension lift regardless.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
Hmm, there isn't any way you could run the drag link TRE at the knuckle under the knuckle, is there? Maybe with another offset TRE perhaps? That would help with your bump stop issue.
They won't clear. I didn't weld the taper inserts, I was flipping them up & down trying to see what would clear where. Everything on top is what it is.

Even if I did notch the frame for the drag link or put a bend in it, about 1/2"-1" further up the tie rod hits the pitman.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 07:18 PM   #43
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Ok, now if you can tie the RuffStuff bracket to the tube, then that would be nice. I am curious to see how you plan on mounting your sway bar mounts on your axle.

Since you are building new arms anyway, do you plan to do anything with your control arm mounts on the frame?
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Unread 01-13-2013, 07:44 PM   #44
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theres plate in front of the spring bucket down to the tube, then another little plate over the seam.
keeping the frame side mounts. I made 4 adjustable arms out of some stuff I had. they're about 1-1/2" longer than stock.

I'm curious where the sway tabs will end up too.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 07:51 PM   #45
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The closer you add a connection to the ends of the shear mounts, the stronger it will be. In this case, the bolt tube and the upper corner of the RuffStuff mount. I would see if you could add something directly behind the Heim, if not on top. If you don't, it is just the one bolt going through two single shear mounts.

I'm not there and can't see how strong it really is, I am just trying to help find weak points before they fail.
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