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Unread 03-27-2012, 09:01 AM   #1
Ohiojeepguy
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Th350 causing degraded performance of 5.3/6.0

Im still in the planning stages of my tj engine swap and I intended on running a th350, 5.3 combo. According to novaks website it is pretty straight forward but when I called them to confirm the adaptability they strongly discouraged using that tranny because it would cause the engine to run less optimally. My question for all of you is how would the th350 be any different than a manual tranny as far as the engine is concerned as long as the reflashed ecu is matched correctly? If it does effect the engine adversely would it be in terms of fuel efficiency or performance or both? Input from those running this setup or something similar would be great. I apologize in advance if this isn't considered "hardcore," I wasn't sure where to start this thread.

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Unread 03-27-2012, 02:38 PM   #2
pete1991YJ
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Hi I'm an oldtime chevy guy from way back with the street rod scene and etc.

The TH350 is more of a street/highway tranny, its geared that way. You won't get much crawl out of it. Also it isn't nearly as strong as the TH400. If you really want a 3-speed auto for your jeep then I would get the TH400 instead - lower gear ratios and built to take some abuse. I had one in a 3/4-ton chev once. They both have the same bolt pattern at the bellhousing.

You will have better luck and probably cheaper to find a 700-R4 4-spd auto now days.
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Unread 03-27-2012, 06:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post

The TH350 is more of a street/highway tranny, its geared that way. You won't get much crawl out of it. Also it isn't nearly as strong as the TH400. If you really want a 3-speed auto for your jeep then I would get the TH400 instead - lower gear ratios and built to take some abuse.
The first gear ratio of a TH-350 is 2.52 and the 400 is 2.48, so the TH-350 will crawl lower in first than the 400. Yes there is a TH475, and some had a stump puller 2.75 gear but very hard to find well unless your me


The only gear lower in a 400 compared to a 350 is reverse, witch is 2.00 compared to the 350 witch is 1.93.

OP I don't understand why your tranny choice would affect your outcome. Only thing I can think of is a auto ( any auto ) will rob more power to move the rig forward compared to a stick.

Now is the TH350 a good choice for what your doing and what power you plan on running for this combo, unless its built I say no. Go with the 400, even stock a 400 will out last a mild built TH-350.
With that said more info is needed from you to understand if the 350 is a good choice here or not. Size wise theres only a few inchs in over length, but what the 400 robs as far as power compared to a 350 that could be a consideration also.
The 400 will rob more power to make it work compared to a 350, but cost wise a 400 is better and stronger.
Ive pulled 400's out of warmed over plow trucks and put them in crawlers or a bogger and there still in there, untouched.

Jason.
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Unread 03-27-2012, 08:47 PM   #4
Ohiojeepguy
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Thanks for the info guys. After a lengthy convo with the guys at AA, i am led to believe that the vortec's computer is much happier with an input from a vss which a th350 does not supply. Because of this, performance and fuel efficiency will not be optimal in comparison to an electronic tranny such as the 4l60e. This can be overcome by using AA's vss adapter but once the added cost of that and the aftermarket flex plate is added in, the th350 looses the benefit of being a cheaper option. Combine this with the lower 1st gear and overdrive of the 4l60e and I think I would be foolish not to go with it for a rig that is roughly 60 percent street/40 percent trails.
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Unread 03-27-2012, 09:02 PM   #5
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if ur gonna go with the overdrive route go with a 4l80e. alot stronger than the 4l60
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Unread 04-01-2012, 12:21 PM   #6
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i have a mild built 4l60e and ive beat the crap out of it behind the 6.0 and its held up very well. the 4l80 is a heavy duty sob though
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Unread 04-01-2012, 01:17 PM   #7
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I had a 4l60e in my trains am. With a 3600 stall and fully built. Broke 3 of them.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 08:13 AM   #8
Ohiojeepguy
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For my application, I think a 4l60e will do just fine
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Unread 04-02-2012, 10:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohiojeepguy View Post
For my application, I think a 4l60e will do just fine


The 700/4l60 is a great trans for off-road use, provided if it's properly built. You'll love the way lower first plus OD.

That being said I ran a Bow Tie Overdrive Stage II 700r in a full size Jimmy with a warmed over 6.2 diesel (ATS turbo, 6.5TD prechambers) pushing 38x15.5 swampers, and it was KILLER! The only failure was the torque converter to flexplate bolts. Guess there was a good reason the TH400 6.2's used six bolts instead of the 700's three

"properly built" , shoulda used some ARP bolts.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 10:59 AM   #10
Ohiojeepguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanZ51 View Post


The 700/4l60 is a great trans for off-road use, provided if it's properly built. You'll love the way lower first plus OD.

That being said I ran a Bow Tie Overdrive Stage II 700r in a full size Jimmy with a warmed over 6.2 diesel (ATS turbo, 6.5TD prechambers) pushing 38x15.5 swampers, and it was KILLER! The only failure was the torque converter to flexplate bolts. Guess there was a good reason the TH400 6.2's used six bolts instead of the 700's three

"properly built" , shoulda used some ARP bolts.
What torque converter would you recommend? I plan on 35 inch tires, a mildly build 5.3 (headers, tune), and most likely 4.10 gears and the factory 231 for now. It will be a mix of highway, city, dirt roads, and Ohio/ pa wheeling. I've always wheeled manual trans so this is very new to me.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 08:50 AM   #11
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It's a JEEP. Stick with the stock converter, anything more will just build heat (in the trans). Don't over cam you 5.3. Build a stump puller.

I ran a stock diesel converter ($), my failure was not replacing/upgrading the hardware that holds it to the flexplate. I remember looking at when I replaced the tranny saying to myself "geez, they're only using three bolts like a gas trans!?" All the TH400 behind 6.2/6.5 diesels use six bolts.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 11:36 AM   #12
Ohiojeepguy
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Thanks, good advice. I agree with not throwing a hot cam in, I really want good low end torque. Do you see an issue with running 4.10 gears with 35's and the 1st gear of that trans? I dont need a super low crawl ratio here in Ohio but I don't want it to be a dog on the street
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Unread 04-03-2012, 12:43 PM   #13
Ripper3494
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with a 5.3 or a 6.0 it wont be a dog on the street anyway, i run a 4l60e with 3.31 gears and 37s, its by no means ideal at this point but its also faster than most stuff on the street
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build thread:
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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-03-2012, 02:23 PM   #14
Ohiojeepguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
with a 5.3 or a 6.0 it wont be a dog on the street anyway, i run a 4l60e with 3.31 gears and 37s, its by no means ideal at this point but its also faster than most stuff on the street
That's good to hear. I realize the d35 won't last long but I would rather not regear right now if I don't have to
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Unread 04-04-2012, 07:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohiojeepguy View Post
Do you see an issue with running 4.10 gears with 35's and the 1st gear of that trans? I dont need a super low crawl ratio here in Ohio but I don't want it to be a dog on the street
With the 700R/4L60 look at your OD ratio (.78 to 1) and guesstamate where you want your highway RPMs. First gear (3.06 to 1) won't be an issue. There's quite a few gear and tire calculators on the web that will give you some idea with out leaving your seat.
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