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Unread 03-03-2012, 09:39 PM   #1
Ripper3494
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tapered pitman arm sleeve?

im wondering if these exist, i cant find them. and where they are sold. the idea is drill out your pitman arm to say 3/4" and weld in a sleeve with the correct taper for your drag link. currently my problem is my drag link is hitting my tierod with the longer wagoneer pitman arm. so for temporary fix id like to use my yj length arm with a hole tapered correctly for the wagoneer steering.

thanks in advance

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RC vs BDS
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Unread 03-03-2012, 10:26 PM   #2
Ripper3494
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nothin?
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 03-03-2012, 10:42 PM   #3
Garza
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Since the TRE you are using now fits the Waggy pitman, and is obviously larger than the YJ taper.....I have used a unibit (step bit) and it works good, but you will need to do that in a drill press and just do a very small amount at a time so you don't go too far.

RG
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Unread 03-03-2012, 10:51 PM   #4
95yj-af
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You could get a machine shop to make one for you. Just bring in the tapered item and they could make a sleeve for it. Probably would be faster than ordering something online.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 08:33 AM   #5
jason m
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Fill the hole up with weld and redrill/tapper a new hole to your size.

Or drill straight threrw and run a Heim on that end, worked for me for 7 years with no falure.

Jason.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 02:01 PM   #6
mj40
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found these from teraflex on ebay...just need to match the taper to your needs..
bt-nvlwcgk-kgrhqqokioevogbt-rrbl9-59s-f-_12.jpg  
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Unread 03-04-2012, 03:07 PM   #7
ratmonkey
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The Chevy drag link end tapers are the same angle (7°), but the start and finish id's are larger than the tire rod ends.

The snap on reamer has served me well. A step bit is a very bad idea..
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Unread 03-04-2012, 03:48 PM   #8
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj40 View Post
found these from teraflex on ebay...just need to match the taper to your needs..
thats exactly what i was looking for
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 03-04-2012, 04:17 PM   #9
jkl
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poly performance has these

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...r-p-21283.html
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Unread 03-17-2012, 06:51 PM   #10
Backroads
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Ruffstuff specialties has them for chevy 1 ton tapers.
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Unread 03-17-2012, 07:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
The snap on reamer has served me well. A step bit is a very bad idea..
this would be the way to do it.
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Unread 03-17-2012, 10:23 PM   #12
pcoplin
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If the pitman arm is still stock, just buy or borrow a reamer bit (~$80) and ream it out yourself. No need for a sleeve.

Bit you could also make yourself sleeves by reaming out some DOM or 4130 tube and welding that in.
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Unread 03-29-2012, 11:22 PM   #13
Climbit
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I would not run a sleeve without welding it in, and I wouldn't weld one into the pitman arm.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 01:24 PM   #14
pcoplin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbit View Post
I would not run a sleeve without welding it in, and I wouldn't weld one into the pitman arm.
Why not? Works very well. I have welded inserts on my flipped WJ knuckles. They'll never come out. I'd weld all over a stock pitman arm with no worries. Of course, you'll want to TIG it to limit the spatter...
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Unread 04-01-2012, 03:11 PM   #15
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcoplin View Post
Why not? Works very well. I have welded inserts on my flipped WJ knuckles. They'll never come out. I'd weld all over a stock pitman arm with no worries. Of course, you'll want to TIG it to limit the spatter...
aren't the stock pitman arms cast? I would think special welding technique would need to be done to make it strong enough. stock pitman arms are cheap enough, just get one reamed.
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