Thanks Connor. I guess the front scares me a little bit because there is so much more going on up there. The rear really seems simple in comparison as you aren't working around the steering, trackbar, etc.
True. Just remove that stuff from the equation. It only enters it when it comes to clearance at full bump. Set the axle as far forward as it can go and at full bump and build the suspension at that point.....then you won't run into any surprises
later on. Once it's tacked up, cycle and go from there.
It would seem that the way to go about it would be to remove the passenger upper. Is there any additional triangulation that needs to be done because of removing the link? I assume not since the trackbar is still locating the axle. I would also assume that trussing the front would be necessary at that point since the remaining upper link would now see a lot more stress?
That's generally the easiest way under a TJ. The track bar is still taking care of keeping the axle in place laterally. The upper arm is preventing the pinion from rolling down when under compression and preventing it from rolling up when under tension. Look at my picture...you do not want to use the factory mount--cut it off, smooth it out and forget about it. A small 2" joint won't last long when taking the full load of those forces. I used some 1/2" steel for a simple bridge/truss for the upper link. The arm is made from 2" x .25" wall DOM and I use the big 1.25" shank 2.5" JJ's at both ends. The frame mount and axle link tabs are 3/8" steel. Steel thickness for the arm and mounts is overkill but it's what I had available and going over-beef when relying on one arm never hurt anyone.
When you say the lower link mounts are mirrored, you literally mean you used the exact same mount correct? If memory serves from your build thread, you didn't use the one piece lower/upper mounts correct?
Same mounts, yes. All 4 are from Poly. I built the front upper link mount.
Approximately what is the angle needed for the upper mount? I ask because I would guess the front is a different angle than the 25 degree rear upper and I'd like to figure out whether there is a premade lower/upper similar to that which people use in the rear.
There is no required angle. I simply built the outside portion of the frame mount and tacked the truss in place, bolted up a JJ, slid some tube over the tube adapter and swung it down to the axle. With the JJ centered, I oriented the mount to put the other end of the tube where I wanted it on the truss....pretty much centered over the top of the diff. I tacked the frame mount to keep it in place, built the arm, and tacked up the axle tabs. I cycled the axle to make sure nothing hit and burned it all in.
I'm curious about this as well. If I were to keep the upper axle mount as far away from the lower radiator neck as possible, how will that affect the geometry?
I'm trying to remember where my joint is relative to the radiator neck but at full bump, I made sure there was a safe amount of clearance. The angle of the arm is very inelastic
when it comes to the calc outputs. Just follow the convention I did and worry more about it clearing everything.
Keep in mine my Jeep hasn't moved since completing the front suspension several months ago and this is my first 3 link. But I've got every reason to believe it'll perform just as I'm expecting it to.