Suspension Geometry - Page 13 - JeepForum.com

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post #181 of 361 Old 12-03-2012, 02:53 PM
jwaller89
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I found another one also. I'll try and find it again when I get off and post it here also.


2004 Jeep Rubicon, Metalcloak Everything. 35's.
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post #182 of 361 Old 12-03-2012, 03:44 PM
Kodiak17
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Digging the new info, thanks for that link jwaller89.

Maintain, wheel, upgrade, repeat.

My build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/thor-dd-weekend-warrior-1348534/
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post #183 of 361 Old 12-03-2012, 10:01 PM
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
In short, no. Can you change that fairly easily? Yes. The real problem is the axle side lower brackets. They are too low, which creates an excessively steep lower link. Clayton makes a solid setup and if you move the lower brackets up and get their arms with JJ's on both sides, that's about as good of an "off the shelf" kit as you can get. But at that point, you're not far from just doing a 'fully custom' setup as well--choose the brackets, build the arms, and burn it all up.

Arm length isn't as important as mount positioning.

My reasoning--similar results, different arm lengths. The constant? Nice mount positions.

Old


New


Compare that to a Rough Country/BDS-type long arm kit. What are those longer arms doing for you when your geometry is neglecting all of the basic rules?


Here's a much-improved Clayton-type setup on 4" springs. Decent frame positioning but the lower mounts still leave a lot to be desired in terms of clearance and their effect on the squat. Notice the high roll oversteer amount and borderline anti-squat amount. Flatter, slight-more triangulated lowers would fix both.
just out of curiosity what made you want to have your upper arms longer than your lowers?

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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
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post #184 of 361 Old 12-03-2012, 11:15 PM
Motas
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If I'm not mistaken it keeps the pinion pointed at the transfer case. Could have that backwards though.

http://cj10camper.blogspot.com.au/
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post #185 of 361 Old 12-04-2012, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
just out of curiosity what made you want to have your upper arms longer than your lowers?
Well, they have to be longer than the lowers because they're more triangulated. Therefore, they're covering a longer distance to get from point to point. And if you look at my constraints--frame mount point is fixed (they are where they are) and the truss is fixed (it is where it is). The truss is further back than the lower mounts so that doesn't leave me many options. And lastly, that's just fine because the the larger radius tilts the housing up as I droop which makes for nice pinion tracking. That reduces the angle of the double cardan joint when compared to a setup that maintains the same pinion angle.

OlllllllO

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post #186 of 361 Old 12-28-2012, 01:56 PM
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Got back into toying with the suspension on my buddy's YJ...

What's the consensus on putting the lower links above the axle tube center line? I've read a little bit over on PBB that some like it on the rear of rigs, but not so much on the front and that you would need to beef up the mount for above center line mounting.

Here is my latest:



It has roughly the 75% separation ratio while being at the middle setting on the upper frame side mount.

Daniel

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post #187 of 361 Old 12-28-2012, 02:03 PM
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Mounting them above the axle tube centerline just allows you to dial in nice, flat links (giving you better performance) on a taller rig. It's a good way to go with crossmember-mounted lowers.

OlllllllO

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post #188 of 361 Old 12-28-2012, 02:56 PM
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Now do you just take your X value to be your link length or do you actually do some trig calcs to figure out your link length?

Edit: Nevermind. Found the exact lengths on the "VectorCalculations" tab! Very handy!

Daniel

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post #189 of 361 Old 01-07-2013, 03:39 PM
Ripper3494
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Here's mine, the roll axis is pretty bad, but while driving I almost like it. My jeep is no longer twitchy when I turn the wheel

forumrunner_20130107_163856.png

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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
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post #190 of 361 Old 01-07-2013, 05:17 PM
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
Here's mine, the roll axis is pretty bad, but while driving I almost like it. My jeep is no longer twitchy when I turn the wheel
Just did some reading, I was a little confused on what the term really meant.

When I think of how bad leaf springs are when it comes to roll axis I think i can lve with thus since all my other numbers are alright from what I see. I'll wheel it for awhile and probably change it when I decide to link the front

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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
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post #191 of 361 Old 01-08-2013, 12:16 AM
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looks like i'll be cutting and welding some stuff soon here. atleast this takes care of my rear crossmember issue that i was having now it wont even be there lol
Attached Thumbnails
new 4 link.JPG  

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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up

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post #192 of 361 Old 01-08-2013, 06:18 AM
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I'm confused as to why you're doing a couple things.

Why are the uppers mounted ahead of the lowers at the frame?
Why are the lowers mounted so low on the tube?
Why are the uppers mounted so low at the frame?

Bring the lowers up at the axle and the uppers up at the frame and it'll look and perform much better.

OlllllllO

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post #193 of 361 Old 01-08-2013, 07:33 AM
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I'm confused as to why you're doing a couple things.

Why are the uppers mounted ahead of the lowers at the frame?
Why are the lowers mounted so low on the tube?
Why are the uppers mounted so low at the frame?

Bring the lowers up at the axle and the uppers up at the frame and it'll look and perform much better.
i posted the wrong one... i theres another one i did that i brought my lowers up to centerline on my axle, which brought the vertical seperation at the axle, that allowed me to raise up my lower frame mounts without raising my uppers and i came out with almost exactly the same numbers there

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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up

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post #194 of 361 Old 01-10-2013, 03:20 PM
tyvanwie
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Okay still reading through all of this and doing other research as well, but is there like a height requirement to doing this? I only plan on doing a 2" BDS lift but I like the idea of a 4 link rear. Are there are problems I'd encounter that'd be different than say a 4" lift? I still need to get all my measurements and play around on the calculator.

I don't even own a jeep anymore
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post #195 of 361 Old 01-10-2013, 03:40 PM
Motas
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No a 4 link will work for any height. Most people just don't bother on the lower lifts because the stock geometry isn't as bad at that height.

http://cj10camper.blogspot.com.au/
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