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Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Advanced Jeep Tech > Started the "Transmission Job", well OK, a complete Stroked Overhaul

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Unread 03-06-2013, 08:14 PM   #136
W_A_Watson_II
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Dalton City, IL
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Finished the fabrication of the tubes for the Rock Rails. I've got a total of probably 12 hours of design and fab into them. Now to finish some cleaning and the paint them. The extend out from the body by 3.25"


Will

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Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37, 1964 Dodge W500 Power Wagon Fire Truck
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Unread 03-06-2013, 08:27 PM   #137
straightsixjeep
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Perhaps the cleanest rock rail ever! I love the simple yet eye appealing design. Was this mig? Any specific welding style? Great job Will!
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Unread 03-06-2013, 08:35 PM   #138
W_A_Watson_II
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Thanks. Yes MIG welding. I don't get the best welds in other positions so I tend to always rotate the part so I can weld on the flat. These are my "temporary" rock rails, but I seems to always put as much work in temporary as I do the final parts. this being my first Rock Rails I've built, I've learned enough to make the next set easier. Again Thanks.
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1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37, 1964 Dodge W500 Power Wagon Fire Truck
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Unread 03-13-2013, 08:51 PM   #139
super98lsc
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1999 WJ 
 
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Nice work, if you want to drop off some temps for my wj I'll send my address ;-)
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Unread 03-23-2013, 03:01 PM   #140
W_A_Watson_II
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Got around to finishing cleaning up and painting the Rock Sliders and got them installed as well. I also checked my fuel pressure, Engine running it's at 32.5psi, under under acceleration it goes up to 40 psi.
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1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37, 1964 Dodge W500 Power Wagon Fire Truck
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Unread 03-23-2013, 03:04 PM   #141
straightsixjeep
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Beautiful, looks perfect.
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Unread 06-13-2013, 08:38 AM   #142
W_A_Watson_II
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Need some 15"x10" 4.5" back spacing YJ wheels

Swapped Tires and Wheels with David (Son-in-law, Courtney's husband). He needed a more fuel/driving friendly setup on his daily driver, and my 31's were what he needed. His 33's look good on my YJ, but his shallow back spacing (3.75") causes the tires to stick out further than I like, and cause some clearance/rubbing issues. Now to either find a set of 15x10" wheels with 4.5" of back spacing, or start doing some clearanceing. I'd rather find the wheels, and will still need to do a little front clearance work.






Will
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Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37, 1964 Dodge W500 Power Wagon Fire Truck
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Unread 07-06-2013, 09:14 PM   #143
W_A_Watson_II
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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The MIJC gathered at Dukes for a little Independence Weekend off-road wheeling fun. I drove the YJ down and back to go wheeling. I averaged 16.8 MPG on the drive, the YJ ran great down and back. This was the first wheeling trip with the Jeep since the "transmission job", and it was a good breakdown run. I forgot to disconnect the front sway bar on the morning run, and did well, but had to bypass two trails as I could not flex enough, and needed a front locker. I did not have to get pulled out or break out the winch, so that was good. I was surprised though that I actually had the rear tires rub my tub wheel opening I'd enlarged. When the rear tire was stubbed in, it was contacting the bump stop and the wheel opening at the same time. Looks like I either try and open the wheel well more, or add a small spacer to the bump stop. The front seems to clear well, except for rubbing the fender flares, which is no big deal. I now have a better idea on what I need to do next to improve the Jeeps capabilities, and that would be a front locker, and rear disc brakes. Lower gears won't hurt, but I had plenty of power to spin the tires and sling mud high and far. It was as always a great time at Dukes place, and with the exception of both front bumper ends getting bent, and one off-road light getting tweaked, I think I came out relatively unscaved.

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Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37, 1964 Dodge W500 Power Wagon Fire Truck
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Unread 10-16-2013, 08:22 PM   #144
W_A_Watson_II
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Well, after 2 weeks and 1 day I have my YJ back. The transmission started having a shift problem, starting off in 1st, when in Drive, as well as the shift lever no longer having a positive detent feel. Took the Jeep the the shop that rebuilt the transmission for me, and said the problems were covered under the warranty, but as I had done the removal and re-install before I'd have to pay for that. Turns out I was glad I let them do it, as they had to pull and re-install the transmission three times! Initially they found that the 2nd gear shift bad had one of the end brackets rivets give, and let the other end's part fall free. Once that was fixed, the transmission was re-installed, only to have a leak in the front. So out it came for the 2nd time, and no bad seals, but a lot of assembly lube was present, so every thing was checked and re-assembles and installed. The leak was still present, further investigation showed that the back side of the flywheel was covered in fluid. Indicating a crack/leak in the torque converter. So out the transmission came for a third time, and a new torque converter was installed, as well as to be sure all was good in the pump, it was pulled and rebuilt again. Now all seems good, picked it up today and except for a 2-3 shift flare that they believe will work out with use, it's back to running great. The shifter was once again finding and I could feel the shift position indents'. RJ at the trans shop said that he found the shift lever pivot arm had more play that it should and said I should replace the bushing. I'd not noticed the play in the pivot when I rebuilt it Jeep, but pulled the linkage out and found the pivot point wore thru some, so out came it's pivot bracket, and found an oblonged hole. So I welded and filed the shaft, then decided with the 1" body lift I'd drill a new hole about 1" higher than the old one to better level the pivot point. Well, the shift arm then interfered wit the bracket. So I welded up the old and new holes in the bracket and drilled a new one only ~1/2" higher, and clearance the bracket a little to ensure no interference. It's all back in, and except for the slop in the government motors column, the shifter feels so much better than it ever has.

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1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37, 1964 Dodge W500 Power Wagon Fire Truck
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Unread 10-30-2013, 09:29 PM   #145
Flajeeper1
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Will, I read the entire thread and WOW! A lot of work with fabulous results!! subscribed to follow your future upgrades.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 05:19 PM   #146
W_A_Watson_II
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Dalton City, IL
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Got the on-board-air compressor hoses made and installed. The compressor works great, and with the hand throttle with the engine setting at ~2K rpm, it supplies plenty of air. Leaks down from about 115 psi to 90 in about two hours, so I have a small leak some place. I still need to install the arming switch and wire (will change to a power rather than grounding wire), as well as getting a inlet air filter.

Picked up a Ford 8.8 rear axle out of a 1998 Ford Explorer. It's outfitted with 3.73 LS gears, (code D4, a 3200# disc brake axle). I started stripping it, and opened up the case, and found the usual black stinky gear oil. No water, and not looking too bad inside. The gears all look good. There is however 0.050 in ring gear backlash (spec is 0.008-0.015), and about .012 in pinion fore aft play. Feels like almost no pinion bearing preload, so with the end play, I'll have to re-torque the pinion flange bolt. I'll also have to re-shim the ring gear to get it's backlash within specification. The limited slip clutches seems to be good and tight.

Now to some decisions and parts planning. I'll by new rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, etc... ( new proportioning vale and improved master cylinder) as well as of course clean and paint everything. I'll also cut off the old spring perches, as I'll need to realign them in both width and rotation to get the proper pinion angle. With staying with a spring under suspension, and not having to use pinion alignment shims, I'll only loose about 1/8" in rear height with the larger diameter axle tubes on the 8.8.

The question is, why 3.73's, why not 4.10's? My thoughts are with the automatic, and a 4.6L engine producing ~240 HP & 315 ft.lbs. of torque (33% more HP & 43% more Torque than stock) I should have plenty of power and torque multiplication. The stock YJ with 3.07 gears and tires (215/75R15) ran with a crawl ration of 20.46:1 and at 55MPH the engine was turning about 2,048RPM. With the 3.73's and the 33" tires, the crawl ration will be 24.86:1 and at 55MPH the engine would be spinning about 2,088RPM. So even without all my extra power I'll have a little better crawl ratio and slightly higher engine RPM. With a torque converter multiplier of 2 (single stator TC), my crawl ration would be 49.72 to compare to a manual setup. I've seen people say the best ration from as low as 50, to as high as 85, with a few wanting 100 or higher. My M has a ratio of 76.3:1. 4.1 gears would only give me a craw ratio of 27.32:1, while s3.73's with a 4:1 transfer case would yield 36.55:1 (very close to the effective ratio of my M).

So my thought is to stay with the 3.73's and if I need a slower crawl ratio, upgrade to a 4:1 low range transfer case. I'll also be looking to install a new set of 2" lift springs to give myself a little more ground clearance, I already have a 1" body, and 1/2" in boomerang shackles as well as liberal wheel well openings. I may even stretch the rear axle back about 1" with the new axle spring perches.


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Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37, 1964 Dodge W500 Power Wagon Fire Truck
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Unread 11-08-2013, 04:05 PM   #147
W_A_Watson_II
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I spent a little time this morning doing the switch install and wiring. I trimmed out the switch plate that held the hard top wiper/washer switches, and opened up the third hole where I had a small temporary driving light switch. I then installed the three switches (one for compressor arming, and two for lights). Next came the wiring. I wired them so the dash lights activated the switch lower light, and I also switched the air compressor to arm with a power wire, rather than a ground wire (so I would not run the battery down). Once the wiring was done, the switches were installed and tested. They work great. They are the same OTRATTW switches I used in my Dodge M37. The left switch arms the Air Compressor, the right switch turns on my bumper mounted driving lights. The center switch, is wired to under the hood, but currently doesn't do anything, I'll need to decide what additional lights I'll install to use it for.

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Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37, 1964 Dodge W500 Power Wagon Fire Truck
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